Guide: Convert your 3D printer from 3mm to 1.75mm filament!

noice m8

Why the bad quality?

Great video as usual Tom! I would love to see a video on Volumetric E Units, and Firmware Retract. I have a Tri-extruder setup with (2) 3mm V6's and (1) 1.75mm V6. I dont print the 1.75 and 3mm extruders at the same time, but use Volumetric E when switching filament and printing with the same gcode. I would love to see if I am doing this right.

The only reason I use 3mm is because of flexible filaments...

Great Video like always

Using OD 3mm ptfe tube would make this process reversible. Robotdigg sells it.

I thought you meant converting filament and got excited lol

1.75mm is the "more modern standard"? I'm an absolute newbie regarding printers and filaments, since I just started experimenting with my first printer - a Tiny Boy / Hobbyking Fabrikator Mini. It's a 1.75 mm printer and I had some discussion about Filament size where people mentioned that 3 mm is the more widely used and overall better choice?

Perhaps you can make a video on those two sizes, the pros and cons of both (like what relative deviations from the diameter mean for a print), what is more available and has the most options and different filament types available, etc?

I'd love to see a delta printer tuning video. Mainly because I'm about to build one :)

I don't think 3mm filament is going away, but I agree that 1.75mm is a bit more popular. However I've still seen cases where a certain kind of filament was only available in 3mm, possibly because the seller ran out of 1.75mm and only had 3mm left in stock. So how does the prometheus print in comparison with the hexagon on the TAZ-mini? Does it handle Ninjaflex OK?

Some good info that I found interesting about a 3D printer I do not own but it seems specific to the printer rather then a generic how to guide as the title suggests. Regardless I did still find it interesting, thanks Thomas, keep the videos coming:)

You should do a review of PETG from either maker geeks or eSun. Both are about $25 per kilogram and make a whole bunch of claims that I find hard to believe for the price.

What is the benefit of using 3mm instead of 1.75mm?

Hey, could you make a video with the new Printrbot Play upgrades?

Good Video, but for all the trouble of converting it you might as well just invest in two complete extruder assemblies (both hot & cold ends + stepper). Then you can switch it out quickly to suit your needs.

Hi Tom i new to 3d printing so i build myself a diy 3d printer i bought a electronic kit on amazon ramps, nema motors stepper drivers mk3 heat bed and so on so after i mounted everything working fine (test run) the only problem i'm having is when i try to power the heated bed it would only power on for few seconds then shut off then i get the smell of electronics also when i felt the heatbed mosfet it really hot now i install a fan above the ramps that help just a little now i get about 10 seconds and same problem it shut off what can i do to solve this problem i saw a video about using a car relay for the heated bed but i'm not sure can you help me out please

Quick question, would it be possible to use 1.75 mm filament with bowden extruder with my E3d V5 3mm hotend? The wade extruder setup is a bit too clunky since the motor rests right on top, that is the reason I want to switch to bowden but at the same time don't want to buy another 1.75 hotend. I tried pushing the 1.75 mm filament by hand in my 3mm V5, filament does come out quite well but I don't know how it will work with an actual bowden setup with tubing and all that.

Hi, I actually have a couple of questions. I'm considering buying this same printer, the lulzbot taz 5, and I also want to buy it with the dual extruder upgrade. Is the process basically the same for the dual extruder or are there a couple of more steps involved? My next question is could you go a little bit more detail over the wiring and the coding or is there an article I could read? I want to make sure that I could do this before I spend the time and money into this printer.

but what if you want a 3mm  and you have 1.75  I have a robo r1 plus and  I contacted  the support team and they said they soon sell a 3mm nozzle so it could it do 3mm filament could be that easy?

fuck me you lost me at 1 min

Great video Tom. By using the Teflon tube in the hot end won't you loose the advantage of a all metal hot end? I am thinking of the temperature required for some of the "exotic" filaments. Or does the Teflon tube not extend into the melt zone?

Question. I am converting my Taz 6 to 1.75mm. I purchased a new hexagon hot end to replace the 3mm one. I noticed that there is no PTFE tubing. Do I still need it? The hotends are identical with the only difference being the diameter of the filament it is designed for.

where did you buy your Hot end from? did you buy it from Lulzbot?
or is it from a different company? I use a Lulzbot Taz 5, and I want to switch to a 1.75 extruder. the one I want to buy is from RepRap. so this is want I'm wondering. do I have to buy the Extruder from Lulzbot?

I've been printing 1.75 in my Taz 6 for a while, but about 10% of my prints with PETG get kinks in the filament. I don't want to swap out everything to 1.75, but make my existing setup more reliable. I was thinking that I could temporarily add the tubing when I need to do 1.75, and take it back out for 3mm prints. Anybody think it would be possible to do this?

Hi, super Video über Tevo Black Widow , kann ich den auf 3mm umbauen welchen Extruder benötigt mann ? Düsse 0.5 mm? mfg

Hello

I have a LulzBot Mini - been watching several videos about it, your review sold me on it - The 3DPrinting Nerd said in one of his videos that all that is needed to run 1.75 is change the filament size in Cura - so i ordered a few 1.75 rolls instead of 3mm because like you said... lots easier to find certain colors - So without tearing down my machine - or messing it up with 1.75 - what you think about just changing the setting in Cura to 1.75 - Thank You!!

I am interested in buying a 3D printer but almost all the ones I have seen are 1.75 mm - and I would prefer (unless people can explain why I shouldn't) the 3mm version.

My reason is simply that in the UK, 1Kg of ABS 1.75mm seems to typically sell for around £15 - £18 - But 1Kg of ABS 3mm, seem to be around £6.50 of you shop around - between a third and half the price.

I am probably missing something important - but it would SEEM that running with a 3mm filament should make a fairly hefty reduction in print costs.

I would much appreciate a little guidance as I am aware I might not be taking something significant into account.

Many thanks.

Do you really need to change the hotend or can you just insert the Teflon tube so that it doesn't bind up and adjust your slicer settings?

I did not see you mention changing the M200 setting that OHAI has in their firmware? If I change this to 1.75 it completely messes up my esteps. I bought my toolhead from IT3D, and it seems to work if I do not change the default filament diameter set by the M200 in the firmware

Hi. Thx. Does it build slower with a 1.75 mm? Also is the quality different? Thx for your time

Why 1.75mm, why not 1mm, with a 0.2mm nozzle, wouldn't it produce better prints?.

I'd rather convert my printer from 1.75 to 2.85 mm to print really large parts in no time.

from 2015 damn. i want a 3mm printer now bc i want to print with 1mm nozzle and over extrude with something like a volcano or super volcano

You should have specified what printer you were working on in your title!

I have a direct drive extruder and I needed to convert 1.75 to 3.00 and all I did was to actually drill the part where the filament goes I forget how it’s called it’s like a screw with a hole through it and it worked

i wanted the oposide 1.75 to 3mm because the 3mm filament seem cheaper

Killing me that everyone is making tutorials from 3mm to 1.75 and not the other way around. 🤣