A Good Commuter Bike Needs ONLY THESE 4 Characteristics

Excellent points! Have a 2019 Specialized Crossroads—a hybrid that’s comfortable for a 20 mile ride (have no need to ride any further than that), practical (low maintenance), has a lot of gears (more than I really need), and I have customized it to suit my needs in all kinds a weather and on a variety of terrains in a leafy small to medium sized city. Always lock it and keep it in my line of sight. If I can’t see it and lock it I don’t take it. Not a commuter I but run errands and ride for exercise and fun. Best bike I have ever had and it fits my needs perfectly.

Budafok Mindörökké!

Are a lot of people who did not pay atention to nothing reagarding bikeing, they afirm that no need for helmet, vest, lights, multitool and a small raincoat, cheap, uniq usage... they leave theyr home clean as fuck just with a bike, with nothing on it....I can'd understant how ignorant can they be in life? :)))) Even if i have a single speed and light bike, i can't go out without that 4-5 items, extremly necesary for every day rideing....Also if you just ride once a week you bike, the most usefull object remain the helmet...guy's don't play with your life if you know that are riding with the cars...if not, it is alrigh to not have one..

Everything thing he's saying is contradictory to his next comment.. it really doesn't make sense..? 90% of the bikes out there are department store bike's.. especially those crappy comuters..

i still drive my very first bike and i built it into my perfect commuter over the years but my only gripe now is that i have rim brakes and not disk brakes and my frame doesn't support it. Not a big deal but it does mean i have to be more careful in wet or cold weather because braking performance can become very poor.

1-Comfort: The bike has to be comfortable and suit your personal taste. I prefer bikes with an upright geometry, like the Dutch style. This way, you can clearly see all the cars, pedestrians, and obstacles instead of just the ground.

2-Carrying Capacity: The bike should have the capacity to carry things. A front basket helps a lot, or rear cargo space for grocery shopping.

3-Brakes:

They should be either disc brakes (hydraulic or mechanical) or coaster brakes (pedal brakes).
Any other type of brake won't work!
Crab-style brakes rely on the wheel being straight, and if you're using your bike daily, it won't stay straight. This will affect you a lot.
Rod brakes have a similar issue. They slow down the bike and require a lot of extra effort.

Simple mountain bicycle frame like Marin bicycles from 1980s and 90s horizontal top tube, vertical seat tube and handlebars as adjustable as much as possible ,simple technologies no super high tech crap ,just chro- moly steel and simple design ,good quality materials.
A good bicycle should be adaptable as possible.
I want on my bicycle
- brightest front/rear lights
-loudest bell & whistel
- front &rear fenders
-rear luggage rack
- rear saddle bags paniers
-built in lock
-easy to repair with minimum of tools and parts you can find in any bicycle shop and hardware store

Not a commuter (anymore), 76 yrs old regular/ frequent bike-user tho.
My must haves? Pedalling support (ie, an ebike)
Internal gear hub (a Shimano fan myself 😊)
Dutch-style frame
Fenders, rear rack, and a MIRROR !!
Cheers all, and happy/safe cycling.

When I lived and worked in Central London, I had a bike that was expensive for me: a brand new Dawes Galaxy. I used to leave it get as dirty as possible. Not the chain or the gears, or anything important, but the frame, the mudguards, the wheels, were as unattractive as I could get them. This made it less appealing to anyone looking at a rack full of bicycles deciding which one to steal, I thought. It seemed to work as I never had it taken.

You are 100 % correct! I think that you would love my commuter bike collection! BTW, I am using the terminology of the times. I a. 60 years old, and I have ridden my bike throughout my life, and I have never concerned myself with the made-up terminology

My favorite was a Raleigh C50. I shortened the chain stays and installed a different fork(shorter and less rake) with drop bars, eventually it got Sachs ergo power shifters and Shimano drive train. So it now has good cyclo cross geometry . Had a torch at the bicycle shop i woked at . Cool now it's a cyclo cross bike with a sloping top tube that's easy to get on and off. Gee why didn't anyone think of that sooner. Anyway nothing like commuting on tubulars (the cyclo cross type with the center worn smooth) daily and being able to go off raod at the flick of the wrist with confidence . Still have it.

Ask why do you love cycling/ commuting with bike

I like how everyone pitches in on the comments with bicycle videos

People commuting on a fixie left the chat

What's the ideal group set for a good commuter bike. Also, can you get decent quality components for a bike around 500? What brands would you recommend. I've recently moved to Italy. There are a lot of local brands from 200E to over 1000E. I am not familiar with these brands. The more bike shops I visit the more confused I get. Any suggestions?

Talking hands are annoying to see for someone such as myself who is autistic.

Trek District.

1. comfort 2. practical 3. low maintenance 4. not locked up

There's good advice here! I agree with low-maintenance as an important factor. I used to get a puncture every few months with the Kenda tyres my bike came with. A few years ago I changed to Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres because they're famous for resisting punctures. Some people hate these tyres because they're heavy and hard. But they grip very well I've had only one puncture, from a 3" nail, in the years since then. Think of all the roadside repairs it's saved me.

#5: a place to leave your bike on the other side. Like a garage with an attendant. That helps a lot

I ride a 1991 Costco MTB that I bought new. It has an "all" chrome molly Tange Premiere frame and fork. I've upgraded the stem and handlebars for a more upright position. I've added racks front and back with folding panniers, fenders, and my "most loved" upgrade. An Enveolo 380 hub. What a difference that makes for the ride, and maintenance. Will never have a bike without it or a Roloff hub. Looking to maybe add a CYC Proton motor system to it as I've gotten older.

I was thinking bikes where kept the wrong way in the rack when you were showing the 1990's bikes ... Wheels should go inside the rack but it was kept 90% opposite of that slot.. don't know what I was thinking about was right.. usage makes the utility of the space I do understand but what could be it it was used differently?

I agree with you 💯%.. specially being low-key. Simple is better.

I build my bike over a year that my Boss giftet to me. Basicly Everything had to be replaced. My must haves are are: an internal hub because germany is preaty rainy. A Front and back rack because i want to drive long tours with this "Frankenstein". 28' Fat armored wheels (Schwalbe Marathon Plus) and the socalled "Brezel" handlebars.
Thats my minimum for a good bike. Total Cost about 600€ and many hours of Research, cleaning and building. The only Upgrade would be rust related with a New frame that wouldnt rust and a drive Belt :D

What Do you think?

In 1977, I purchased a 1974 Schwinn Speedster. Bomb-proof Chicago frame, Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub, fenders & chainguard. Inherently theft-resistant. It's still my daily! Best $40 I ever spent!

The alternative to locking is bringing it inside as a folder. Obviously only applies if a folder fits your other criteria.

90s MTN bike commuter here. Nothing quite like locking up a drab grey 30-yr old steel Raleigh and trotting into a store worry-free. I have changed it to a 1X7 drivetrain and replaced lots of worn parts over the years as the support for those bikes remained good for quite some time. It certainly checks all the boxes.

Stuff that I want on my bike:
- high and or swept back handlebar
- street tires
- a rear rack;
- honorable mention to ebikes and step throughs

What I don't want on my commuter bike:
- a expensive looking frame
- a front derailer.

Department store bikes can be upgraded as things break down. This is a good way to learn about maintenance and customize it to your specific needs. It can cost less than something from the bike shop if you have the time and patience to learn to work on your bike.

My current summer commuter bike is actually a very old department store bike of sorts - it's an Eaton's Glider, built by Raleigh for a long-defunct Canadian department store chain, probably in the 1960s or 70s. I bought it used in 2008 for $C40 (plus another $30 or so to make it roadworthy since it had been sitting in a garage for a couple of decades) and it's one of the most practical bikes I've ever owned. It's basically a Raleigh Sport under a different name, with the upright-type handlebars, crossbar frame, 3 speed Sturmey-Archer hub, and rim brakes.

More recently I decided I wanted a winter bike, so I picked up a rather similar one, called an Empire. I know nothing of the history of the company, except that from its logo I think it was Canadian. This one is a single speed with coaster brake and step-through frame, almost like a Dutch bike. Had to swap out the front wheel for one that could take a studded tire, though, because they don't make studded 26 x 1 3/8 in tires, but I've been riding it in snowy and slushy conditions without trouble.

Both of these bikes get used most often to get to work (3 km) or to the grocery store (a bit less), sometimes 6-7 km for other trips. Terrain is very flat (Winnipeg, MB) so these bikes wouldn't be suitable for everyone.

My commuter bike is a 20 year old trek 520, it has rear rack, mud guards, 700 x35 mm tires, i oil and clean the chain weeklyand i use it for work (about 5 mile) grocery shopping; laundry, etc. etc. ho! And also i have rechargable lights and a lock.

I have trifold bike and also an Aleoca Viaggi folding bike, basic shimano tourney 6 speed with front and rear racks. I use that Aleoca alot more going to places, send kids to sch or going to the market. It's the most reliable and safest as i dont need to worry when i lock it up.

I feel that no matter what bike u have, u will need at least one workhorse bike for everyday use 😂

I have 4 bikes and I don't own a car. My favorite commuter is a fixed gear gravel bike. Very low maintenance and a fun go anywhere ride.

I've got an eVelo Galaxy SL, and I adore it ❤ It's an ebike, but the gears work when the power is off, so if I were to run the battery down it's still rideable 🙂 It's kind of like a dutch bike -- It's a step-through frame, and I added a riser so the handlebars are even taller, giving me a very upright posture. It's super comfy 🙂 I installed a cafe/ring/frame lock with a chain, so it's easy to lock up, and I've got a basket on the back rack, so I can carry a bunch of stuff. (I'm in the backpack in the rear basket camp for transporting stuff to and from work 😆) It came with fenders and lights, which are pretty essential this time of year 😛 I added a universal trailer hitch, so I can pull a trailer. I got a pet trailer so that I could carry my black lab if he gets too tired on a ride, but I've also used it for grocery shopping at Costco and WinCo, and with the extra help from the motor I have no trouble hauling my loot back up the hill to my house 🎉 I can't use it to transport my kids (the youngest is 10!), but for solo trips around town my bike can pretty much replace my car 🚲🎉

for a commuter bike I look for one with higher handle bars as having to hunch over for more than an hour to work and back is very uncomfortable

- I have Marathon Plus tires so I don't have punctures, and can ride on 'gravel' bike paths also. I found I replace them about every 5 years, because they dry out and become more puncture-prone.
- I have hydraulic disk brakes. Unlike on a road bike I'm riding in the rain and in the city, in traffic, next to pedestrians, through public parks, at night, you have to be able to stop easily and reliably.
- A rack and a pannier, both for shopping and for commuting with a laptop.
- Lights of course because daytime is short in winter.
- I have dual-side pedals, SPD on one side and flat on the other, so I use it with street shoes or bike shoes.
- A "New York Fahgettaboudit" U-lock, and the wheels are locked to the bike too.
- A nice range of gears, I usually only use the upper range but that's because I'm stronger now and can stand up on the pedals when going up-hill.
- A helmet and gloves because I fall off about once every 2 years
- No suspension (except the tires, gloves, and being able to stand up on the pedals e.g. on cobble-stones or pot-holes)
- You recommended steel, mine's aluminium, it has a few nicks in the paint but no rust
- I agree with a mid-range price e.g. mine was $800 new about 12 years ago (pays for itself in a year by not needing public transport) -- "regular maintenance" just means changing parts when they wear out, e.g. top-up the tyre pressure, change the disc brake pads every 6 months, the chain every year, the bottom bracket and tires every 5 years, and the wheels every 10 years.

200 usd single speed with rear rack.

I started back in 2013 commuting to work on an used one I bought at a thrift store,I have 3 now (one I built myself) the bike commuting part is the best part of my day, peace 🙋🕊️💪

Whatever he said is true. Commuter bike should be very comfortable and reliable, easy to maintain. Watch what Dutch problem ride. We don’t need mountain bikes or sports bikes for commuting, these bikes are not comfortable at all.

Hmm, this advice is just a little too abstract. Newbies need more concrete advice:

- must have fenders / mudguards
- must have rack(s)
- must have at least 1 pannier or a basket to carry your stuff to / from work
- must have front / rear USB rechargeable & removable lights
- must have kevlar belted tires to exclude flats
- must have a good lock, and a bracket to carry it
- rim brake pads melt like chalk in the rain, go with mechanical disks, or drum brakes

- wheel hubs should be cartridge bearing hubs for water protection and to exclude the need to service and adjust
- bottom bracket should not have external bearings, they hoover up water, should be a cartridge BB
- 8 speed cassettes and chains are much less expensive than 9,10,11,12 systems, important because you will be replacing them 1-2 times per years
- 1-by systems are not good for the city, and the cassettes are very expensive, stay away from them

In general, don't get a "beater" cheap bike, it will make you miserable and you'll be repairing it constantly, and you will spend a lot of many on parts and repairs, and lose a lot of time doing it. It's cheaper in the end to ride a good bike.

On the other hand you don't need a very expensive bike, that will be delicate, more complex to service, appeal to thieves, and be expensive to replace parts.

Living in a flat country like the Netherlands I prefer a fixed gear bike both for the low maintanence and for the low price. The components that I do need, especially bearings, are top notch. For me gear ratio tends to go to the speedy side, 80-85 gear inches. One other thing to consider is what kind of handle bars you choose. The handle bars determines how much wind you catch. The choice is between the more comfortable high-rise or flat bar to the more aggresive (and faster) bullhorn or dropbar. I prefer the latter on my 27km commute. Driving through the woods I prefer a dyamo hub over battery lights, because it is a real problem when the batteries are unexpectedly empty when you have to drive back.

You really didn't focus on anything helpful.

LOL I took off all the decal flash off my bike. And I LOVE panniers.

Got a emtb for commuter so Will perfect for the winter

I commute a Specialized P3 setup for downhill 😅

I'm really enjoying my Trek FX2 commuter. It's perfect for my current needs, and the city that I live in. I agree that comfort and fit are important!

This video is a waste of time. Everyone knows this stuff. If you want to ride at night, you need a light; a bike that's dependable, comfortable etc, etc, blah, blah.

Csodálatos magyar akcentus! :)