Комментарии:
That’s pretty amazing that you built that from scratch. Really cool. Takes quite a bit of time to fabricate all the parts and pieces for that lathe👍🙂
ОтветитьMaterialflexingatchuckmostlikelytoomuchbacklashfornomoretimethatyouputinityoudonewellit'sdiffentlylightdutyyoucoulddobetterontoolgrindingyouhavegreatattitudei'msurethatyouwillrefineitandusetailstockwillgivemoresupportpleaselookatyourviedoiknowthatyouwillimproveitgreatjod
ОтветитьI've seen you've been replying to recent comments so I wanted to ask a few questions before I attempted this at home.
1. What is the thickness/height of the steel tubing you used? I have some 1/16-inch thick and 1.25-inch tall tubes, but I'm not sure they will hold up to the task.
2. What tolerances were you able to achieve with your build? +/- .1-inch?
3. Why was the framing as long/spacious as it is? Such as the area where the motor sits? Or how high the chuck lies from the base of the frame.
I'm in the process of making a smaller version with many of the design concepts you've used, as they are (scuffed yet) beautifully simple. The only complaints I have are how there aren't any shots at the end of the video with the build fully complete, or a list of the materials you used. Other than that, really awesome video and super inspiring. Thank you.
Güzel iş
ОтветитьLap your surfaces together to try and get a little slop out
ОтветитьReally nice job!!
ОтветитьAwesome build dude, i must make something similar but will use v belt drive, its a bit more forgiving and easier to make slip for soft starting and emergencies, i was trained to use lathes and safety is a massive priority, things like don't wear a tie or your face may take a beating, this was the first thing i was taught, second thing was remember to take out the chuck key ;) and where is the emergency stop button.
Ответитьdank build 10/10
ОтветитьDamn awwsome content bro. Subbed instantly
ОтветитьHey. Fabulous job man. I'm wondering if you are willing to share your design drawing?
ОтветитьVery good job
ОтветитьDude. Add some caste parts in there. Add a bit of finesse and refinement to your build. Make it look PURDY. Like, I'm pretty sure a caste tailstock would be badass.
ОтветитьNice job!
ОтветитьI have a whole garage full of real machines that I've acquired over 30 years. I admire what your doing greatly! A little suggestion, if you were to make a lathe all over again design the fabricated bed in such a way you could fill it with concrete! This would greatly add to its rigidity and dampening ability. During WW1 Lathes were needed so quickly there was no time for foundry work so beds were tubular/bushing slides and concrete.
ОтветитьThanks for share. But not details only a funny show. Thanks
ОтветитьAwesome Job! Are your plans available for purchase?
ОтветитьLol you fan do that with a drill and a file hahahahaha
ОтветитьThis is my first view of your channel and I'm impressed. I can realyvtelate to the self incredulism when i get something right yhe first time! It's like... Whoa... I actually might he better at certan things than i uave previously considered....... 😮
ОтветитьHi bro.can u send me shematics and ... this lathe for me please?
Ответитьxtreem well done
ОтветитьNICE MAESTRO
ОтветитьIt looks very interesting !
Where are you from?
I think the hand made gears were the most impressive for me, i had no idea gears could be handmade with enough precision to be worth a darn. Awsome job on the entire project, i feel alot more confident in trying to build my own now
ОтветитьThis is f'n great.
Please use cutting oil/fluid do I don't cry. :)
Re. milling with drill press: I just picked up a '40s era Craftsman benchtop press to make a mill for 'light' work. The thing weighs ~280 lb. The head is a big honking' (tech. term) chunk of cast iron.
I love the irony (pun) of needing a lathe to re-size the rod to make the lathe. Nice work using a grinder on that and everything else. +10 for the use of layout fluid!
C est bien
ОтветитьВзял и слепил))))посмотрел с удовольствием))))спасибо!
ОтветитьWow! After watching you make this all on your own, I’m feeling much more confident that i cannot make my own lathe and i will be going to Harbor Freight as soon as the beer fund is refilled!
ОтветитьWell done, shows what can be achieved with basic stuff.
ОтветитьWhich software you are using for control??
ОтветитьAyo this rocks for real ,
Would you mind if I asked for your blueprints or weather I can like use your ? Thanks for the response , hope it'll be alright with you .
Mann deserve the Ultima-Gizmo-lord title
ОтветитьGreat. Don't pay any attention to untalented detractors. I think you are definitely a genius, no kidding. I knew, as you did, that by using the materials and tools you had on hand that this machine was not going to be incredibly precise or powerful. But, it is incredible; a very handy tool for turning down stock. If you need super precision for a project you can always take your stock to a machine shop. I think you should have taken the pipe to a machine shop and had the ends turned down for a good bearing fit though, it would have made it run truer. Also, don't heat a bearing any warmer than 150 degrees Fahrenheit, that should be lots to slide it on a shaft at room temperature, without damaging the bearing. Again, excellent work!
ОтветитьA lathe is a machine that can turn square metal round and round metal square!
ОтветитьTwo things i'd change to the recipe
1. rigidity
2. rigidity
Basically A frame for the spindle bearing supports. Not a box frame. That's not only not rigid, but it's also something that can build resonance. The riser for the tool block, that'd have to be more rigid as well, with a wedge put inside (there's a woodworking channel that built a cheapo vise, and that's how he did his vise jaws. Tube + wedge inside - aka triangle). Finally, the ways of the lathe, i would build them in a triangulated fashion, as close as possible to straight (but i wouldn't put too much effort into it at first) and parallel. I'd also make them such that the "legs" could be buried inside a large concrete block that spans the width and length of the lathe. Once those are in set, to make things parallel, square, even whatever, i'd choose where cuts could be made from the sub frame (the concrete) and before making the cut, i'd weld a nut and a plate and cut between them. That way, if you want to tighten or expand that joint to brings to even, you can use a bolt to push or pull based on its position, before welding the cut back. All welds done in this operation would have to be very quickly chilled, so a wet towel should be in place.
This could yield a bigger lathe, on the cheap.
Man, I subscribed thinking/hoping you had more improvements to the Lathe. Its a great starter for me, hopefully you add more.
ОтветитьHow much did this project cost??
ОтветитьThe cutting result is better than i expected, i though the mechanism, rigidity were suitable for 3D printer only. Good work
ОтветитьAwesome vid, I'm going to build mine soon
ОтветитьThat was cool! Thx for sharing!
ОтветитьAnyone have the actual plans for this?
ОтветитьUmmmmmm this wasn't supposed to work
But mans has a lathe 😮
Great
ОтветитьBTW, конструкции катастрофически не хватает жёсткости. Необходимо выровнять станину и добавить дополнительных рёбер жесткости. Также было бы неплохо использовать трубу без продольного пропила в узле крепления подшипников вала. Также не помешала бы самая простая задняя бабка с самым простым конусом на подшипнике. Это значительно увеличит качество обработки и повысит точность. Лично я бы ещё использовал не цепную передачу, а ременную, т.к. это исключит риски поломок в случае застревания резца в заготовке и снизит количество используемых деталей для передачи, что повысит надёжность и КПД системы. I am too lazy to translate all of this, so pls do it by yourself. It will be more accurate, than my own or online translation. Have a nice day!
ОтветитьThat's a brilliant idea, greetings from Indonesia, friend
ОтветитьYou Cain tension is on wrong side
ОтветитьWhat do you mean it’s not as good as a store bought lathe ?!! Yours is better than my vevor 8x14” lathe !! Suggestion, if you want smooth finishes and no bumpy bumps it’s incredibly important that you get your x and y axis as rigid as possible with absolutely no movement. That way when you go to turn your part the tool post doesn’t move and your chuck needs to be extremely rigid with zero give. Also bolt your lathe to the table or tack it in place if you have a steel table . If you do this you will be able to make incredibly accurate parts down to the thousandth and below.
ОтветитьIt posible for steel or alumunium?
ОтветитьVerry funy when change the chuck for a stone 😅
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