The fastest way to make crisp PCBs at home!

There is never an easier way with open source hardware and software.
...if it were easier, it would be worth money.

I dont have a resin printer

The best way is : Get the pcb , a plastic sheet like u use in school to project page's or images , photo-developer , etching liquid of choise : hydro peroxide + salt peter acid is what i used if i translated it correcT. And u need a UV light box, a old scanner , pop some UV lights in. So u print the circut on the plastic sheet, u put the sheet over pcb, u light it with your UV light box . u trow it in developer to develop the traces on the pcb itself , than trow it in etching liquid where it eats away the coper that didnt turn black from the UV expoture (the actual pcb tracks) 5 min job if u have all ready to go. and pretty easy to get 2 sides pcb's done even.

yeah because mixing an acid and base on your skin is the best way to neturalize it, and well create a lot of heat as well. sounds like a great plan. Next time just have plenty of water to delute it, that why all chemical wash stations use water, because all you want to do is delute it as much and as fast as possible.

Don't be creating exothemic chemical reactions on your skin, it tends not to be a great idea.

Awesome idea and project by the way.

Hallo

Love this little printer!!!

bruh, I did this in high school with getto materials and was easier lol. Outstanding use tho if your boards are much more complicated than the average DIY home project.

What are the concentrations of the solutions? Please and Thanks!

Can you help? What is the 'Target body' when you make the cut?

i want my PCB to have a connector. imagine 9 pads on a pcb and i want a 3rd party chip with 9 pads to touch the 9 pads on my PCB (no soldering, these are disposable counter chips that are constantly replaced). would i do a type of lga connector? something less expensive and easier to do? could a PCB house implement it for me or do I have to manually add it to my PCBs that I order in bulk?

Why does 3D printing not need shipping?

For smt prototyping of single sided boards that looks good👍🏻 And great to have a multipurpose machine!

Thanks!

LOL…could literally invert the image. That was the most technical way to do that. Haha.

Ah yes, a resin printer, I should have one lying around... Let me just check my basement right quick

You could also make your own custom display mask. Take an HD LCD with HDMI input, remove the backlight and use a bright UV backlight. You could then display a simple image to expose. For a slightly easier time, you could buy a replacement LCD specifically designed for resin printers and a UV source.

So come on, this is over a year ago and as far as I can see nobody has yet made some DIY hack of taking a replacement LCD, which are fairly easy to obtain, and connecting it to a raspberry PI to display an image for making PCBs... Anyone??

Also, prototyping is the right application for this, as ordering from JLPCB or similar vendors does take time and you can't quickly fix errors.

Thanks a million. This answers my questions about all I wanted to try. You just saved me a bunch of money! THANKSKSKKSKSKSKK!!!

I have had a crazy idea in mind for years for doing pcb quickly. I have never used an sla printer before so this is just an idea. The idea is to put the copper face down in the sla printer as the base where the 3D print would be mounted to. Then simply print the resin onto the copper which is then the acid resist. Then take the pcb out of the sla printer and etch it. The resin becomes the etch resist. In this way the resist material is quickly put on the pcb with laser precision and the only step now is to etch. No other nasty chemicals needed. Can this work????

im honestly going to need some help with this before i lose my mind... i've been struggling around 10-12 hours to get this shit working and every single thing or tool i tried either fails or runs abysmally slow. i got my design made in Kicad and then export the gerbers. so far so good.. loading into F360,works fine but here is where everything breaks...
because the model is generated with so many vertices it destroys anything i try to load it into. F360 literaly takes 5-10 mintues to create the box, but that is not the problem... the problem is that every single tool i tried to use failed to do the subtract boolean operation. F360 fails. 3ds max fails, blender fails, even pursaslicer failes to create a proper mesh that contains my circuit.. how the hell am i even supposed to fix this issue.. cant i just generate my own .CBT file where i it a monochrome .bmp image and tell it hey this is layer 1.

Use resin as solder mask? ehm ... depending on how you solder it will go between 200 and 350 degrees celsius. Not sure the resin will like that.

omg pls do not use vinegar to neutralize NaOH if it touches your skin. It does not work like that. Do you know anything about chemistry and proper lab practice?

Probably just uv lamp and the transperent film method works works u dont need the 3d printer

note to self, develop an etch resist printer filament.

The best solution is print 2 films on i inkjet special film , aligned them over each other, eliminate both sides. I have made over 1000 pcbs very fast and precise. Now i just order a prototype in china 😁

super expensive material, isn't it? abt 10 bucks for a small piece?

I am struggling so hard to get my easyeda boards to a printable stl for chitu. can sb help me with that ?

I'm curious wIll the 405 nm UV light damage human skin or eye?

Good job! Can anybody tell me if this will work with the Anycubic Photon Mono 4k printer? I am new to 3D printing so I don't have much knowledge yet.

Which UV exposure source are you using? How much does that one cost?

Can it be done with 405nm SLA printer?

How did you do the combine/cut? I saw an extrude in between.

This looks like as much trouble as old toner transfer

There's also photoresist paint that would be worth trying.

You really should look into how white leds work lol. They're literally uv until they have a phosphor layer and a yellow filter. You could probably imagine some leds are made cheaply and allow uv light through

why didnt you use ferric chloride?

Using vinegar is ridiculous it takes a longer time than you need just use bicarbonate soda its immediate and when dealing with acid faster is better

Think I will rather use CNC for prototyping :P

really usefull, specially when having to do smaller pcbs.

Cheapest and best is to NOT mess with all this PC toiletry at home. Just send your design to a Chinese PCB house for pro results.

Also with NaOH, the dissolution of NaOH is EXTREMELY exothermic, in higher concentrations it can actually cause water to boil so be careful and use a container that can handle the heat

Negative: I do not want to be negative but i'll not work.

I would ask for my money back if I were siraya

smectite carbon fired topological circuit object

Well done !
Try to find out from the resin manufacturer - is it possible to dissolve the finished product from this resin in some kind of solvent?
So it will be possible to save copper from printing!

NOOOO! DON'T USE VINEGAR ON A LYE / NaOH BURN! Ok, I realise I was yelling. Yes, vinegar as an acid does neutralise sodium hydroxide as a base, but on your skin it will just burn more. Best thing is to add lots and lots and lots of water, i.e. dilute the fork out of it. Fight Club was a great movie, but a lot of its ideas left a lot to be desired...

Unrelated question: you said you're making these in your basement. So it sounds like your MSLA machine is in your basement. What do you do about the fumes? I assume your basement isn't very well vented (same as mine), so how do you keep the room (or do you) from filling with fumes? I'm thinking about getting a machine but my wife uses the same space for her crafts and I can't fume her out.

If this is for rapid prototyping, isn't that what breadboards are for?