Ignition Timing For Power

How do you get a spark with the cap off?

Best timing video EVER ! Thanks for that

Why is it that engines on boats do not have a vacuum advance ?

I am so confused. I thought timing was set on the distributor. I thought you set initial there by turning the distributor, and then you set the weights under it for mechanical advance. Can someone explain to me what he is doing on the engine damper?

I never use timing marks or a light to adjust ignition timing. I’ll have an assistant put car in gear, load the engine and then I’ll advance the ignition timing as far as I can go until the engine starts spark knocking, then back it off until it stops.
Been doing it this way for years with great results.

That was a good tip on manually opening the weights on your rotor for maximum advance

You can crazy glue timing tape come on you're being too technical

Good info for people!

That initial timing trick with the spark is freaking GENIUS dude.

How do you know what degree above top dead center to set your motor at? I have a factory 67, 289. No modifications. Is there a website to visit to give this information?

Great content brother

cool

Hey bud that’s wrong! The diameter of the balancer is different than the “diameter” of the marks… you need to measure or calculate the circumference of the balancer which is 360 degrees and calculate your needed timing from there

If timing is advanced too far can it run rich and burn gas out the exhaust?

When doing engine break in advancing the timing an extra 5° can save your header coating. When the engine is in a no load condition the crank moves faster than the flame front and you will still be burning the mixture when the exhaust valve opens. Make sure to back it back down when you go for the test drive.

Quite good information!

I have a sotck 360 5.9 lt 1986 dodge carburated engine, what timing would you recommend ?

Hi Tony, You are a great source of information...
You talk about driveability, what exactly do you mean by that? because I can't tell any difference other than a smoother idle when running manifold, I have a manual transmission, is that where you would maybe see a difference, is between manual and automatic transmissions? I'm sure there are many others wondering the same thing. Do another Distributor episode....

You never once mentioned how you find what the engines total advance is and how you find it and modify it????

I tried your "drop in" dizzy procedure to try and time out 305. But looks like I didn't have much luck because you have to turn the dizzy fast enough for it to spark. But what I didn't do was hold it "hard" in the direction of rotation. That probably would have helped get rid of the slop that I was dealing with. Either way it got me close enough to start it up, set at 10deg initial. Was also a hei unit and I'm wondering if that matters to get it set perfect? Thought maybe points and condenser have that stored energy. Blazer needs a tune up so I'm re watching some things.

Peopel are bether of with real magnetos not that crap HEI .
Just me opinion.
MC 3334 ic chip pdf file show why those systems are terribel set frequency 30-333 hz current limiter,voltage limiter ,coil saturation to late lost power constantly those ic chip stop working under lower speed ranges it is not variabel enough advance and retard is to low.
For days I surche for circuet that can buff up 4 pin GM ignition module so fare no sucess be adding simpel ceramic magnet to the pick up coil spark was lot bether.
So the old magneto was best choise at least it was variabel via advance/retard lever .
Even points fail open at high speed.
Those coil packs are garbage as well dual spark is great but not if it cant ignite any thing .
Mostly HEI fails in winter at low speeds thats their biggest problem.
So who surches for perfomance tap in to alternator winding give ignition coil full ac power or use power transistor to pulse ac use capacitor banks insted lead baterry even if you use baterry use it only for starter motor make shure you dont get shocked insulate alternator with proper wire insulation or use dual alternators .
HEI isnt the system for perfomance nor does CDI only pure magnetos can help .
I did manage litel to retard ignition timing with linear and normal potenciometer but problem with resistance didnt go well as I expected so those engines need terribly retard mechanics when engine is cold perhaps rewinding pick up coil useing shmitt trigger or some one sugested useing triac might help The 5pin gm ignition module wont work GM engines need thicker piston rings ,braket holder for crank shaft lubrication bearings and reinforced gaskets found similar to tractors they also requare tungsten spark plugs for best fuel economi power gain and torque thats the set up for doing so and modified alternator and starter motor who can work at low'r speed's faster opening coolant thermostat proper transmision and problem solved .
Those are after all Gasoline-Disel engine blocks all of them GM Chevy Ford Pontiac Oldsmobile all of them are nearly identical.
Your realy good mechanic but for cold weather states HEI will fail except if those blocks habe oil pan and block heaters then it might work.
I wuld advise also to get ride of stock wire harnest and build for ich device seperate fuse and reverse voltage protection preferably closed loop baterry system not to tuch any where car chassys ground preferably add electric pump on brake booster in case of emergency crank case gases and coolant eat up rubber and plastic parts so bade idea lubrication oil to mix with brake fluid posibel engine run on problems might acure normali those old engines have alternator back sharge problems and coolant electrolisys.
Thats also reason why they start teribbly at winter they also miss air compensator as well so the engine chokes if some one drives to close to trees in cold mornings .
Thats so fare what I know about those old cars expecialy on magnetised engine close to trees engine floats instanly so I advice peopel to do such simpel modificatins if advanced ignition timing the gasoline engine behaves like ordinary disel engine .
Other vise US engines are best they rarely fail .
That is considered about GM problems who randomly acure so manual advance/retard lever is necesary similar found like on Oldsmobile 1930 car .
Nothing ells can help those old cars they are bitch to turn ower at winter so baterry starter assistance pack is necesary with automatic on/off feature baterry charger .
Hope this helps some one .

Man I feel like I ain’t ever gonna get none of it, feel like giving up on The truck 😔

I just put a carb and intake in my SBC it runs but is choppy at initial take off runs great after that what should I try

You rockan good stuff

I use a little bit of epoxy to keep my timing tape on

I’m finding conflicting info on setting total timing. Some say total is set by rotating distributor and others say total is set by changing springs inside the distributor and not rotating. Which one is true?

By law, if you are a gear head, you must own an "Easy Rider" motorcycle helmet. I am glad to see that you are in compliance. Tickets cost money!!!
Question; Timed vacuum or live vacuum to the advance, that is the question? UTG!
DK, ASE master retired.

You have some awesome old school advice, my friend!!
I grew up in a time where i welded up the advance in the distributor to limit the total timing. , file to suit,. 12 initial plus 22-24 centrifugal was fairly accurate.
I’m showing my age and your vids are enjoyed.!!!

Thanks for the hex key mention!

Thanks Tony. This is a great video.

Meh , get rid of that silly vacum it's for fuel milage and causes trouble throws timing off , delete it and be done with it set your timing like drag car yes 👍 high intial less mechanical and bam you have that pist off engine that wants to launch out hole

How do I do it on a jet boat out don't have that i got v belt

Great channel. Got a hold of an 85 mustang this spring. The first thing to go was the electronic ignition.

Thank you, that was a very good video bud!

I put one dot for 10, two dots for 20 and three dots for 30 in different colors so when I look I have a reference for 10, 20, qnd 30 with a light...

This kind of knowledge isn't learned in a week. This is gold wish I would have known a few of these tricks back 15 yrs ago

Uncle Tony, years and years ago, I had my brand new, all forged, aluminum heads, 9.8 static comp ratio, 383 stroker Chev, dynoed at 511hp. We brought it all the way up to 40 degrees advanced. Made best power there.

Sound normal, any thoughts?

You’re good Tony…. You’re good!

Ty Tony a year later video in Tony’s English is perfect. Ty . Big block Chevy had a set advanced setting. Tutorial was awesome.

Hey Tony love your videos,,do you know about what the timing should be on a stock 65 383 2 barrel

Why when I try to set my timing it's fine until I try to advance it it jumping all over the place say it's 13 degrees if I try to do just say 16 it bounces all over the place

Exactly what I needed to set total advance on my 009 VW. Thank You!

Advance Canister vacuum what? Never see that. As enghlish is not my native speaking language I don't understand this part.

Dang sure could use your help when I swap my 302 to carb from efi

Every degree you add of base timing is 10 extra horsepower

I made my own marks using masking tape.
Put the masking tape on top of the timing tab, mark the lines, they are 2° apart then put the masking tape on the damper. Kinda like using timing tape, then use a marker to mark the damper up to 40°. On my small block n big block Chevy, full advance running the engine using a timing light, hit on 36° full advance, which was coincidentally at about the 12 o'clock position on the damper. I used a medium n light spring on the HEI distributor.
Both engines run great! Great drivability, and good getup n go when I need it. Passing gear
kicks in good n hard n works great as well.

Uncle tony, what about setting timing for duel points distributor. For a 69 gto 400 ram air 4

I have Chevy 1984 c30 292 engine shut off when I hit brake I have brake booster with no hose for vacuum so I don't know why?