Why Doesn't Everyone Make These 5 Miter Saw Upgrades?

Can you get a dado set for a cross cut or radial arm saw

I’m constantly finding myself cutting narrow material on my miter saw, setting up stop blocks and improvised push sticks just to keep my fingers away and hopefully not wind up getting shot in the chest or face with a kick back
Thought about your miter sled, wondering if that’ll help me out

Thanks again!

Matt you never disappoint. I've been woodworking for a while and you always teach me new things. Thank you.

The 2 videos that are right here and right here were not right there or right there 😂

Instead of the expensive zero clearance tape, use the wide Gorilla Duct Tape, works like a champ.

Hmmm. My miter saw has a depth stop. Didn’t know that.

To answer the question why (assuming we’re trying to learn how to be quality woodworkers, and not doing random DIY projects): critical cuts (cross and rip) should be made on a table saw, not a chop saw. While a Kapex is by far the most accurate of chop saws, it does not make furniture quality cuts. A table saw does. And breaking down lumber to start a project is much safer and easier with a jig saw. And cutting small parts, even with a zero clearance fence and insert is MUCH safer on a table saw with a sled. So in a woodworking shop, (even a basic one)your chop saw should see very little use making these upgrades unnecessary.

I like your channel and advice, but that miter sled project didn't work out. I used the same 1/2" MDF and CA glue with accelerator that you did, but the fence part easily came unglued to the base, which could be somewhat dangerous. I only had a 90 degree cut, didn't even mess with a 45. Maybe there are better options for adhering endgrain MDF, regular wood glue is probably one of them, but what you used in the video was no bueno IMHO. Mark

Beware, this will lessen the depth of cut !!!

How do I take the damn blade off?

#4 how to turn your miter saw into a radial arm saw

Very informative videos!

Could you provide the link to the miter jig to cut up small pieces. I thought you have a template for sale

Great video, very informative & on point.

matthew 6:1-6 is worth a read

So why don't they make a tool with the 5 changes?

Just buy a makita instead , dust problem solved

MATT - Realizing I will lose some cutting distance, can I install a 10” blade on my 12” miter saw if the arbor is the same size?? The reason I ask is because I have some really nice finishing blades for my tablesaw, and as rarely as I cut anything special on my miter saw I’m wondering if I can be miserly by not purchasing a higher tooth 12” blade. Money, money, money . . . mon-ee! It’s just one of those things 🤷🏻‍♂️

To answer your question ... they are busy doing productive things.

Festool for dit and hobbiests is far too expensive and, I think, tool snobbery.

Awesome 👏

Hello Matt. Do you sell your Mallets? If so, how do I find them and the prices?

Thanks man

Another addition is the Fastcap 10 Million Dollar Stick. Cutting a small piece of wood on a miter saw can be dangerous when placing your fingers close to the blade to shave off a little. The hold down stick allows you to firmly hold the piece and keep your fingers safely away. I've used mine a bunch of times. Last used to cut filler pieces to door hinge mortises when I turned a swing door slab into a barn door. I cut small shavings off of my blanks get them to fit perfectly. Not every mortise was the same.

Great info - thanks!

i actually installed a range hood on clearance from Home Depot above my miter saw and exhaust it into a Kirby Micron Magic vacuum bag along with Bosch dust extractor a few years ago, lol…no dust in the air and i love the LED lights on the range hood as i’m making cuts…just learning about Shop Nation

Based on your video, I ordered and installed the Shop Nation dust adaptor on my Bosch 12" articulating saw. OMG. It worked very well on a piece of 2x4 scrap. But when I tried to actually use it on an 8" piece of 8/4 oak the silly thing bottomed out and served as a *brake*. That's right - a saw with which I have previously cut miters on a piece of 5/4 by 5" Cherry (standing tall) now can't handle 8/4 lying flat! Who designed this POS? And who tested it?? I'm going to try to get my money back...

When did John trevolta become a wood guy?

Thank you!

Great video I always use CMT blades in all my saws and I can say they are the best I have used.

Getting the laser attachment for saws that don't have one (like my DeWalt) was a huge upgrade for me.

love the sled.. I only have a 210mm compoung mitre saw. No sliding on it. I'm going to try one of these sleds for it..

Great improvements. You're pretty confident that right hand won't be attracted by the blade. Stuff happens quick.

Thank you for the zero clearance tape idea! I cant believe i didnt think of this! 😊

You said 80 teeth, but the blade was marked Z=60!

Thanks for this! immediately ordered the dust collection upgrade kit. My Dewalt cuts beautifully (with a finishing blade from Bosch) and I use it all the time for clean cuts at accurate angles. Its a bloody mess though.

In my little shed right next to the laser engraver is my Miter saw and the dust drove me nuts. It was always extra cleanup at the end of a project.

If you get a load of dusk from the kapex it’s user error 🤷‍♂️

Check out the new FlexVolt DCS 781 it has a much improved dust collection set up that very much resembles the kit you bought, is also lighter, uses but just 1 FlexVolt battery compared to my previous FlexVolts 2 battery system but no 110v conversion pack. . Direct worm drive instead of belt driven, I should also mention for old renovation guys like myself the 18 lbs they shaved off of the saw is a blessing 😂

Festool might sue him 😂😂

#6: If there's a laser on it get rid of it (if you do fine woodworking).

I note you shimmed your saw. You can make the recess for your saw deeper, then lay a piece of plywood on it. With four bolts, nuts and washers, you can drill through the bottom board, mount the bolts with T nuts, then adjust the board you laid on it up or down to accommodate dimensions of different miters. Drill holes part way into the upper board, for the bolt tops to go in to, to hold it in place.

I came up with this when I was trying to come up with a way to move a mantle clock around and still have it perfectly level, which was critical to whether or not it worked.

You don't have to build an entire sled. Many of us have been running electric miters for decades, so came across the problem with lack of support for small parts over and over again. With the zero clearance plate problem solved, all you need is Masonite backing attached directly to the stock fence.

This not only solves the problem of lack of support for small pieces, it reduces how much material you have to use.

If you use a bit thicker material. you can even inset mounting bolts in horizontal slots and relief cuts so the fences can slide left or right, allowing you to use the same back for 0-45 right or left.

Excellent tips & video! Not one second of time wasted, and I could follow every single thing. Thank you : ) : )

I bought a small “pet tent” from amazon and mounted it on the back of my saw. 95% reduction. It looks like a pop up tent and is about 2x2x2. Just unscrewed the back screws I used to tie the saw to my table, slid it under the saw about an inch and put the screws back in. Reduction seen is with no vacuum at all.

Great video. Very helpful. Thank you.

Do you build anymore? Your just a advertisement now