NO MORE JAMS on the Prusa i3 mk3 3D Printer!

Thanks!

Huh... Weird. I've been using lots of Proto Pasta HTPLA and I've never experienced any of these issues on my MK3S+. I print HTPLA @220 and it comes out flawless every time. I guess the only difference is that I am running a tungsten carbide nozzle. (.4mm)

When you light prints from the front they all look good. Print a flat vertical surface and light it from the top and then you can actually see how bad the layer lines are from the shadows. Printing little figurines and lighting from the front doesn't tell me anything.

OMG guys, thank you... JGAurora/JGMaker A3S owner here going insane trying to figure out why all of my prints jam at exactly the same place...

Motherfu…
I just wasted like 20 hours and 150 meters of filament diagnosing this.
Průša really messed up, installing this garbage in all printers by default instead of just bundling it with the MMU kit.

This is a good solution. But it would be great if you stopped interrupting your guest every 10 seconds.....

Wow! Coming to this video a bit late, but I was having a LOT of jams recently on one of my two MK3S printers, and seemingly only with one roll of filament (ZYLTech PLA Basics), but in nearly two years of printing various PLA filaments exclusively, I'd never had any jams like this. I kept having print failures a few hours into a large, complex print. Both printers are in an enclosure that gets up to 31-32C so Prusa was saying "heat creep" at first even though only one printer was suffering this issue. It seemed like if only one was having it but both printers were using the same brand and color of filament, it'd have to be the filament was defective on the printer with all the jams. I've had some okay prints with the jamming printer, but my confidence has been shaken. I have no desire to use an MMU on these machines, so I'm thinking now that I just might swap out the heat breaks, use a sock, and also upgrade the fans on both printers. Interesting to know that the MMU heat break could be the issue but also that it could continue to be an issue with other filament types, especially ones with additives.

How would you classify those gnomes using bi- gnomial - gnomen - clature

sorry joel, silly question, i have i3 mk3s+ and have some clicking extruder with no jam or under-extrusion, just clicking in random time, is that caused by the heatbreak or hotend that you mention ? in mk3s+ still have the difrent model than the original 0.2 e3d model ?

This works! I used to need a large force to unload PLA from my Prusa i3S+. I was worried I was going to break something. After watching this I bought a standard heatbreak for a E3D V6, fitted it, and now it's easy to unload PLA! Worries are gone. Thank you Joel and Proto Pasta!

Hello,

is the issue fixed in the MK3s+ Prusa model?

Thank you very much for the Update.

Damn, Keith missed out on burgers.

I just measured the end of a pull at 2.2mm on my brand new mk3s+ so this still appears to be an issue. I have not had this problem with Prusament PLA or PETG from any brand, but I've had this happen with budget filaments from Bing3D and GST3D. Is there a good budget PLA brand in the states that is reliable with the stock mk3s setup?

Issue seems to be most prevalent on models with lots of quick retractions like others have mentioned. Printing hotter and faster with less retraction length seems to alleviate the issue for me. I may have to try and stick with printing more PETG and one of these days I'll just upgrade to a Dragon hotend or something without this 2.2mm throat.
It seems like kind of a ridiculous issue to be having with what is supposed to be a reliable workhorse printer, and really more work than I'd like to fix the hotend to be more compatible with various PLA filaments.

I've used a sponge in a 3D printed clip with just a few drops of vegetable every once in a while (not often) and I've been really lucky with my MPSM. So I keep doing that. I wouldn't be surprised if it turns out to be a myth, but it's part of my routine and it's been working. So I'm keeping it up. ;-) Great vid!

Thanks! I've been fighting this issue for a while with Silk and other additive PLAs. I didn't know the MM heatbreak was different. Excited to swap it out.

sup guys ! im using ENDER5 Filament doesnt stick to the bed at first and then fcked up my entire print any advise ?

does this work with mk3s aswell? ive like small tubes it will jam at 25-50% of model now i just puit it at 240 degree and 75% speed dont know what happends but it mainly jams on the tiny things ( with clicking ) filemant is HotOrange from Netherlands

I’ve changed the heat break with a V6 standard one, still clogging... I don’t understand at which point filament stuck.

So glad to have found this video. Just ordered the heatbreak! No more jams here I come.

Hi Joel, this is valuable insight, thanks! Q: MK3S - does it have the heat-break 2.2 to 2.0 throat as well?

@3dprintingnerd I have not taken off my stock heat break but I bought the once in your link and it does not look to be one solid diameter all the way through. I’ll have to stop watching you if you are linking me back to a product I already have/is not the product you are talking about on your video.

I have ended up printing (with ERYONE Red PLA) with the following settings
50% Speed
200° Nozzle
60° Bed
150 Flow

If I attempt to use a heat above 215°, the filament oozes from the nozzle constantly

What the fuck is a heat break....

OMG THANK YOU! I was going crazy!

My wife was so mad at this filament and wanted to send it back. 2 cold pulls and take apart the extruder 3 days after getting our first printer. I'll have to try this in 2 weeks when I get home from work.

"I'm going! I'm keeping!" (c) Keith. That's the guy who "did the video". Thanks dude!

You have the trapezoidal motor nuts mounted upside down!!

Oils in your bathroom cabinet?

hopefully they stopped putting it on the new machines. why make 100% of the machines print bad for the 20% of the people that do multi material?

There seems to have been a lot less testing and quality control with the mk3. Slapped on some "upgrades" and tada, new model! My mk2s is looking like a more solid and less finicky machine.

Looking to pick up some spare screws for my Prusa i3 MK3, Checked in the assembly booklet and found M3 x 10 and some other assorted lengths but can't find the pitch for these screws. Once I find the pitch can order some from my local hardware store.

Can anyone tell me what is the white substance Keith used when he screwed in the throat tube into the heatbreak and what is it used for?

Why do you guys not sell 1KG rolls?

I'm very happy with my Prusa i3Mk3s but not with the jams over the last year now I know why, already contacted Prusa for a price on the original E3d Heatbreak can't wait to see if this works

Thank you so much. Had the mk3s for a couple months now. Due to the filament shortage on Amazon. Im forced to settle on some off brands. This started happening and I've been tinkering with it for a long time. I've got the e3d heat break and sock on order. The Mrs. Is selling the mask ear savers to contribute to the cause after she saw that people were price gouging on etsy. People had to lower their prices after she became best seller. We can get the prusa up and running now.

What drives me crazy is why they would think the bigger bore would help the MMU? What I've found when pulling out clogged material is that the auto-unload will not work because the hardened material at 2.2mm in diameter is still larger than the hole in the PTFE tube so Auto-unload will not work and if I undo the hob gears and manually pull out the filament it takes a lot of effort to pull the filament through the PTFE tube.

Prusa Printer is a JOKE. Don’t understand why they sell a defective printer with so much 3D printed plastic in the extruder. That looks like engineer student design extruder. CERO quality control. They should use metal parts. Prusa is only MARKETING. They should never give jam problems for that HIGH PRICE. I use flashforge finder, Dreamer, guider, and NONE of then have Jam problems at all. WAKE UP PEOPLE. This is absurd!! Total waste of money...

240 'c you say? I'll give it a shot! I've only been printing with my machine (Prusa i3 mk3) for a few weeks and all of a sudden half way through my project I keep having the darn thing stop extruding filament and just click-click-click-click, It's been breaking my heart for the past 4 days and I'm an absolute newbie at this (I only learned how to cold pull today) and i think I've gone though half a reel of PLA in failed prints (thankfully i did buy a second reel when i first started but still, what a waste...) but it's been a learning experience if nothing else.
Liked and Subbed, I feel i can learn a lot here :)

All I wish is that I had found this video before graying further than I should. That god-awful clicking sound was driving me mad. Thanks for bringing me back to earth, Joel. This video doubled my understanding of PLA, hot ends, hea breaks and other hardware and settings.

you know you finally made it when you go eat burgers like a boss while "Kieth" takes care of stuff you don't want to do.

Is there a containment solution that keeps the filament dry while it is in use?

So Prusa support straight up denies the problems shown in this video. They still say that there is nothing wrong with the MK3 hotend.
Did you get any response from Prusa?
Is there a way to fix this without having to print way higher than otherwise needed?
Or should I just buy an MK2 hotend?

So I just got my first 3d printer the mk3s. Been printing 2 days now I mostly wanna use flex and everything I try. So far dose not work. If the print is gonna be longer than a hour it still wraps up Inside or just sets in there. Would this fix my problem?

THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! You helped me solve a year old problem. I essentially gave up on printing silk pla due to constant jamming and inconsistent extrusion (not a prusa). I spent so many hours/days trying to fix this which included replacing the whole hotend assembly.. but never did I realize the issue was the design of the heatbreak. I immediately bought some smooth bore heatbreak (went with titanium because it was available) and BAM! smooth prints after smooth prints. There are still occasional jams due to heat creep but it's far and few between. I've almost gone through the 5 spools of different silk pla and ordered more. Thanks again!

The reason avocado oil is a good choice Is because it has one of the highest temperature smoking/burning points. Avocado oil is good to 500f. But Changing the heat break out is a cheap and better solution.

For single filament prints, and while keeping retractions, would reducing/maintaining retraction distance and increasing retraction speed instead be a potential fix? This way the end of the filament wouldn't enter the 2.2mm zone.

Thank you! I was having this exact issue with Proto Pasta HTPLA on the MK3S.

Well, I just got off of chat with Prusa support, and asked them about this issue. His reply: "There is no issue". So I gave him the links to this video and the previous one which first talked about the issue, and he said "That is a problem with the filament used". I told him to watch more of the video, that talks about the cause and the fix (replacing the heatblock with the older one from the MK2), and he tells me to change the heatblock then. Then insisted that "there are tens of thousands of MK3S printers out there with no issues, so there is no issue". Wow.