The Ultimate Guide to Perfect 3D Prints

I've been using the Kobra Neo for 3 months now, so the first prints were great and really great quality, but then it started to get worse, it started with under extruding, stringing and failing my prints, then I switched from the cura recommended settings to the custom settings and went through a lot of settings, such as: build plate temperature, retraction, horizontal hole expansion, adjusted extruder tension, and began wiping the build plate with isopropyl alcohol. And now I started noticing flaws in my first layers, I suspect leveling, but it doesn't look like the video shows. So if you have any advice I'd love to hear from you

Anyone know if a piece of computer paper is too thin to be used as a feeler gauge? Seems to work for me and other people, but it's a lot thinner than 0.2mm like the feeler gauge. If I'm not mistaken, it's 0.1mm thick on average. I guess if a person wants 0.2mm, then two pieces of printer paper might be better I guess.

The moment I saw you bend the lead screw, I subscribed.
I truly appreciate your efforts in this channel

As someone who is very new to 3d printing, I found this kind of hard to understand. I use a ender 3 pro, I watched a bunch of tutorials and still am getting bad results when printing :(

This guide is amazing. My prints are spot on! Thank you so much! You were so right about the cooling. I had been using my machine in the ender tent since I got it and was never able to print in mid air like in the clearance castle part of this video. After watching this I opened up the from door if the tent during a print and you could see it going from drooping to perfect as soon as the air was flowing in. You know your stuff my dude! Thank you again.

Hi, Im still in the first step (bed leveling). I managed to get my four corners pretty smooth, however my center square still has spacing between filament lines (as if it were too high). What can I do to fix the center square without compromising the leveling of my four corner squares?

So, I have a Benfenybay 3D printer and I tried the cube using Cura, and it prints but only does half the cube? Why would that be?

I just got the Kobra 2 Max, and when i go to print anything that isnt the test prints preloaded on the printer, after it heats up the temp automatically sets back to 0 and does not print anything. any help would be much appreciated.

This was such a useful video. Thank you

or just a buy a bambu

or just throw it to garbage and buy resin printer

Come to my house and tune my printer. You will be well fed, and I am also a professional keyboardist.

I bought a couple Anycubic printers and they both won't put out prints.

There is some much tweaking needed for 3D printing.

I feel like having a bent z screw would kind of be kind of cool for Prince
But you have a printer that has a purposely bent lead screws and one without and that we can make these cool designs with the bent one

What program do you use?
Prusa? Anycubic Slicer? Ultimaker Cura?

Great video, thanks 👍

this video is awesome, and super helpful. Just slow enough to fully digest but your still talking at a fast enough pace that im engaged. 10/10

Where did you get that caliper?

HATE HATE HATE AMAZONE GET RICH BULL SHIT!!!!!

Step 1: Buy bambu lab

Dude you look so lovely, I can't tell why, but what a great content, God bless you, what a Chad!

Assembly will also throw you off as well, just got mine yesterday.and relisted my horizontal bar that the hot end travels on was low on the right side of the printer, had to build 2 identical spacers to lvl my bed properly, I was wondering why my bed springs were fully compressed on the right side. Great video 👍

The one thing I need to know is when you preheat when you’re doing stuff like this to calibrate, do you pull the film it all the way out? Do you just pull the filament back into the tube? Where is no longer with the heating element? Or does it matter?

The biggest issue I’ve run into is clogs, and I can’t tell if I’m running to Hot! or too cool. Is 200 ok for PLA? 220 too much? 195 too cool??

If somebody said to use 230° for PLA I would do that right now but I’m not sure if that’s the right way to go since I always end up with solidified

hwo do I get the castle to print it?

Anyone know how to fix my ender 3 v2 when I start a print it just makes long plastic strands

Nice Daedric sword in the background. Did you 3d print that?

I need help with my printer printing off center and wayyyyyyy too big

I have an Ender 3 s1. It prints to a height of about 3 mm then the filament jams but the printer still keeps printing. Any thoughts. Thanks

This guide is amazing. Thank you so much for this information. I just started printing yesterday and I've just been struggling with trying to figure out what settings I need to clean up the prints and I got my machine used. I'm having fun but I don't know anyone else that has a printer in person so this is a difficult learning curve

for sure you can fix a bent lead screw. Heat and a covered hammer does the trick. :D

Did you print your haircut?

Can i perfectly print power bank case?

Hi. I love you channel. I have setup my steps/mm on all axis with a caliper, but i cannot print objet with correct size (calib cube is 19.8). So for me it's a nonsense to setup axis "after'" printing objects. So can you (or your audience) give me some tips to found the source of the problem (slicer problem / firmware problem) ???? Thanks

this is why I kind of prefer resin, there's like only 2 things I have to deal with on the printer itself

Subscribed for lead screw

I may be over thinking things but if anybody understands the concept it is probably you...

Is a power conditioner ever neccessary for 3d printing? I'm referring to what commonly gets mistaken for a surge protector but this particular one flattens the mini power spikes from the incoming power. I use to sell them for home theater but don't know if

a. It would apply to printing and
b. If the power conditioner was ever its weight in scrap gold.

I'm curious because with so many magnets, motors and mixed voltages, I imagine it could cause some interferences.

One more, very common stringing cause - different filament residues (i.e. TPU residues in the nozzle on PLA prints are causing terrible stringing). Cold pull (or a few of them) are a must.

Oh, wow - I guess my nozzle is too close! I didn't know that was even a thing! I thought the goal was to get the nozzle as close as you can with minimum clearance of letting a piece of paper pass between and didn't know there were further considerations. This is very helpful to know as I am getting that elephant foot effect. Got some adjusting to do. Thanks for the info! =)

I know I'm super late to this but I have a question. In the string test I'm getting strings but not in a spiderweb type of outcome, more of occasional "fingers." They stick out about 20% across the gap and curve upwards. Is that still a stringing issue?
BTW thank you SOOOOO much for this and all your work!!!

what should i do if my bed is warped

What slicer do you use in the video

This was such a helpful video thanks! 👍

Hi, @Maker's Muse What is the Pink Mat called on Print Bed you are using? Does it help with adhesion of prints better than magnetic flex steel bed plates? If yes where can I get it? Thank you!

i have a ruby nozel that wont fit 0.4mm cleaner through it, the nozel actually measures 0.35mm,,, dam ruby nozzels.