Q&A #44 How a Trouser Should Fit

What is your formal fit name?

Appreciates all the advice! I must say the 44 looks so much better imo but obvious comfort is more important

Those trousers need ironed daaamm

Is your sperm count still okay, Mark? lmao

Respectfully, when did tucking in your shire without a belt become ok?

if I were a man, I would defos be Armoury’s loyal fan.

I wonder how the waist should fit. I find that when the waist fits just right, trousers would slide down a bit and don’t stay. So I have to keep pull up the trousers. So most often I prefer it a bit tighter around the waist.

Excellent presentation and I fully concur with your recommendations except for one issue I have which is the short(it seems) trouser length you sport?! I prefer slightly more length in general.

Is the cut on your newest version of the Army Chinos (from Ring) in the exact same cut as the Nigel version?

so is the tapered trousers is the way? because I want to tailor my dad big trouser to look like the trouser that you're showing. hope you will reply 😃👍

Thank you Sir for your insite knowledge and sharing with us, as the others call it old fasioned, the trouser style you mention is the how it supposed to be. badlly enough this days most of reatailers selling almost (99.9%) trousers lower hip fit. I think if I am not wrong this came about 15 0r 20 years ago a cloth designer or stylist called Alexander Maqueen, accidently introduced the new fasion trouser so called "Builders Bom" which shows the middle part of their ass, and now most of the time seen with the gay community and misunderstood young boys. I use to buy my suit and trousers from the department stores such as M&S and House of Freser and others..etc. unfortunatly I can not find the properly cut and stiched trouser any more even the "Geans" in these stores, unless we go to made to measure with the old fashioned tailors. Thank you agian for your useful information. By the way, can you recommed any store which sell those kind of suit or trouser that you mentioned (the properly cut), also if you can. And how about the undesized Coats (U.S.A) or Jackets (U.K.).

Thank you for this excellent review. As we see some people start wearing a wider bottoms, could you show us next time tourser upcoming fashion?

Thanks so much for making this video.
- a recovering former slim fit suit enthusiast

Pleates 💯

Are the two denim or chambray shirts Jan is wearing here for sale on the site? (Not sure which they are.)

like your belt Mark!

Dude the slim one was the only one that looked good on you, all the wider versions make you look like a child in his dads clothes.

I actually dislike the fact that pleats make the trouser look more tapered. I don't want that strong tapered look, so I intentionally have my trousers un-tapered a bit especially when they have pleats, so they can appear to have a fairly straight leg still. Although, in truth, I end up with a leg opening similar of 19-19.5 as you describe. it's just that italian trousers start much slimmer at the ankle almost universally, which is seriously frustrating. I have had sales assistants insist to me that that is the correct look and I'm just outdated or similar. Needless to say I did not buy from them.

Bellevue, WA

In order to keep a clean silhouette with either a suit or an odd jacket and trouser combination, do you need to cover the bottom of the shirt or is this irrelevant? Thank you in advance.

19.5 cm??

What about athletic body or big boned guys? The same applies?

This is such a complete yet simple walk through of well-fitting garments. I’ve never heard someone discuss the congruence of the trouser vs jacket. Great information and very easy to follow.

This is the best video explanation of how a trouser should fit that I have seen. Well done and thank you for sharing!

great video and very helpful. Can I ask, should side adjusters be used to help keep the trouser in position? I have a pair of linen trousers that are a little large now (i lost some weight) and the only way to keep them up is to pinch in the waistband with the side adjusters. Thank you

Top one guys

I'm very pleasantly surprised to hear someone actually mention hip measurements for once!! I'm a man with a very small waist and a very large hip size in proportion (about a 10 inch difference!) so I go a bit mad trying to find trousers that don't look hideously tight on my seat or very baggy on my waist. Its most frustrating when some OTR and even MTM retailers don't place a lot of emphasis on hip measurements.

So good. Best line in this video "I worry about my sperm count in these". I literally laughed out loud. Love the sense of humor!

I hate to say it but the slim fit trousers look best on you.

Will be glad when the skin-tight clothing fad subsides. The slim, tight jacket silhouette shows the a bit of shirt near the waistband when buttoned, an awful look. Can't agree about pleats, however. Pleats are a never.

Leg opening too narrow makes the shoes look humongous. Another point to focus on with the fit.

Totally agree with your opinion on the leg opening, I've seen certain brands used narrow leg opening on their pleated trousers, less than 16 1/2" on size 34, which renders entire silhouette comically

This is a master class in fit. I've been going to slim. Clearly. Thank you.

Clear, concise and informative: thank you!

This one is so much helpful!

Hi Mark, this must be one of the best videos on trousers and suit fit out there. Thanks for the great content. Keep up the good work. Look forward to visiting your store. Cheers, Eduard

Can you talk about shirts should fit? Seeking clarity. Thanks.

Great insight and I'm in complete agreement after going from Uber full cut baggy things to overly correcting slim...to now a nice balance with shape but great drape and cohesive proportions.

This was very insightful. I have two suits and both of the trousers look pretty much like those too slim trousers, unfortunately... I have a slight belly so I think it would be beneficial to have some room in the trousers as well and not too much taper. I will have to consider this next time, it's hard to find good RTW trousers though.

Totally agree on the ”evils of sausage case clothing”!

Clear and useful, thank you

The Armoury's existence is probably my only motivation to visit New York tbh.

Can you give more details on how to measure leg taper in particular in order for it to look proportional in the context of a regular to looser fit? Things like leg opening size, consistent taper vs knee down etc. Non-tailored trousers are rarely tapered and this has to be done via alteration, and judging it feels like a hard decision.

How should trousers fit.....

Great explanation great video.... always thought those abrupt changes were weird.... guess i am not the only one

I have had my trousers made from some established MTM houses/brands several times and never got such "fit" advice from the tailors. As a result, on one such occasion, I had to go back to the atelier a whopping 6 times to get it right. This video is spot on and very helpful, thank you very much, Mark! Your videos provide invaluable advice.

I worry about my sperm count 🤣🤣 well done.

Thank you from Paris, very nice video 🙏

I absolutely love your philosophy on style and how clothing should fit. I look forward to visiting your store in NY.

My problem with higher waist pants is, without jacket it just feels weird and secondly, waist is either painfully tight for sitting, or falls down when standing...