Fearlessly Draft Your Own Sewing Patterns - What the Pattern Companies Don't Want You to Know

Having your own dress form is totally cheating and you don’t give an alternative. I’m not afraid of the math. I can add and subtract. It’s measuring. I can’t measure my leg length correctly when I hav to bend down to see the number. The number becomes much shorter. I can’t pin the depth of a wrinkle on my back by myself. And don’t tell me to get a friend to help me or my husband, (what husband?) or ‘whatever’. The best I can hope for is the UPS guy. And that puts me in the same boat with building my own dress form. That’s why as a size 18/20 designer dreamer I live in knit slacks and t-shirt hell.

Sooo....is it Seamstress or Sewists ?

I have sewn for 60 years....can sew just about anything/everything.....
Love repurposing/revamping/remaking.....
Used clothing is cheap or free !
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This is the first video of yours that I've seen. I don't need to watch how you sew to know that you're an expert sewer. You clearly know what you're talking about - and more importantly for yt, how to talk about it. I'm subscribing for that. I've sewn since I was a child and so did my mother. I've only tweeked patterns in the past or sewn basic shapes for draping like a pirate shirt.
I have one minor constructive criticism for you. Have more confidence in your presentation. I think you're writing out every word that you want to say, probably in case you forget something. You won't, you know what's needed. Video allows you to rerecord a section and edit out what you don't want. Have a practice with index cards using single word bullet points for running order. Then you can let yourself speak more smoothly. I know you can. Onwards and upwards. Xx

I am thrilled to have found your channel. My mother used the Lutterloh system when I was growing up in the 1950s. Now I have my own kit and love using it. My Lutterloh patterns consistently give me better results than commercial ones and as I am learning, the process gets easier. Thank you for this interesting video.🌷

I just found your channel and love your explanation! I purchased the lutterloh system because the French method scared me. I don’t know what ease a sloper or a block is…I know nothing!

I learnt how to draft my own patterns. The key is to learn how to take your own measurements very acurate .

Back in the late 60 or early 70, all the pattern companies came out with something called "New Sizing" which put them all on the same page so to speak. If your size is Misses 12 then you could be assured regardless or which company pattern you bought, they would all fit the same. Next, some of the patterns included an adjustment for petites in the tissue pattern. Needless to say, it was a godsend.

You did have me chuckling: I remember crafting 1st a gym bag then an A line jumper 🤮 in jr hi.
I celebrated my 70th birthday this month, so yes, cheerfully a Crone.
I applaud you for sharing your journey & knowledge.

I started historic costuming over 20 years ago and rapidly fell in love with draughting systems, it looks like the one you're using is coupe jour (or similar) I started collecting them and although I have discalculia I can easily use all the systems I've come across. I just love making my own patterns, probably more than sewing

To everyone who wants to learn pattern drafting but are not interested in vintage styles: watching these videos may help you learn the principles of how to modify a pattern to fit you correctly. Then you can use these principles to modify patterns for more modern styles.

I watched a few videos on pattern drafting, and that did help me modify commercial patterns to fit me better. Learn about ease, measuring pattern pieces themselves, and how together, the pieces will go around your body, so you can know how to modify each piece for fitting you when sewn together.

I used to make "simple things", got a book in my early teens, "clothes and stuff you can sew yourself" where a lot of patterns were simple kimonostyle shirts where you lay down on the fabric and draw a line 10-15 cm outside the body, use a plate to draw a good hole for the neck. Other things had plaits and such to make it easy to fit (70ies ...), almost everything was straight pieces. Learned how to make skirts from circular segments, and I have no problem with arithmdtics or geometry, shaped clothing on barbie dolls, made a lot of doll's clothes with or without a pattern. I can adjust a readymade pattern for me, sort of, but really making them ... nah ... kniting is another thing, I always try to figure out how a knitted garment is made when I see it, and I can transform my measures to patterns and so on, wish I had that with fabric, always a bit scared to make the leap.

My mom had pattern drafting stuff when i was growing up .(her unfinished college degree was home economics emphasis dressmaking...)but btween actual homemaking with 5 kids and dad working 3 jobs and working on his degree and then mom getting a job once the youngest was in school...well...using patterns was all I learned.

I started sewing at the age of 14, in the early 80s. Every thing I know is from school. And this was never covered. Thank you ❤😊❤

I love what you’re doing with your channel! So valuable!

I remember when I could buy really inexpensive muslin to use to make sample garments. Now, just finding ANY fabric I'd even want to wear is almost impossible! I guess it's good people are getting back into quilting and crafting? 🤔 Even that was dying before COVID. When I was about 12 we learned to find patterns that fit (and adjusted them) with the styles we liked, i.e., long sleeves, bell sleeves, gussets, etc., and then just assembled the pieces we perfected to make into a garment we wanted. No need to buy more patterns once we had a sleeve that fit, bust that fit, darts that fit, etc. I have a Lutterloh system that I just never go the hang of. But I do have dress forms and find it easier to drape and fit on them. Thank you for doing these videos! 😘

My issue with pattern companies is that they never indicate the cup size on patterns. Most are sized for b cups. Those of us with larger cups have to adjust the pattern. Otherwise the neck is too wide, they should add the upper bust measurment so people know going in.

Just found your channel and very interested in seeing more! Clicked the sub button and hit the bell!

You’ve inspired me to research pattern drafting courses in local colleges. For now I do have a dress form (with my measurements) that I fit/adjust my toiles on. Very helpful to know that alternative drafting methods are available. Thankyou ❤

where can you purchase a miniature pattern guide and special measuring tape?

While I fully understand the role of slips , full or half, they are usually of synthetic fabric. With the wind we have here at times in Australia that equals a ton of static electricity and if the outer garment is or has synthetic that is a ton of cling not fling. With daily temperatures in summer that are 90 to 100 plus degrees Fahrenheit, or even in the 80's, that is an extra layer of fabric that wont breathe as a rule so one will be looking at heat stress, heat stroke or worse, death. Maybe the recommendation of slip wearing, and I agree about what it does, should also come with a temperature guide. It was a practice developed in a way different climate. We need more fabrics that will breathe and allow air through.

Hi can you please let me know where to get the tape and the wheel
Many thanks

Over the past few years I have begun to learn pattern drafting (for my own use), using the measurements to make bodice, skirt and pants slopers. I was amazed at how simple the process was and bravely made some garments which ended up fitting pretty well. (Yes the fitting especially for pants can be time consuming, but worth it for the end results) It is fair to say I am more of a standard size person, but like you I find the commercial patterns add more ease than I would like making my finished garment one that won't get much wear. Plus a pattern is very costly now (I started sewing in 1963 when patterns were very inexpensive), so I expect alot for my money! This early fall I ordered the Lutterloh system mainly because I don't want to spend the time designing my own clothes, and hope I can make any fit adjustments needed to a self-drafted pattern because of the knowledge gained from making up slopers. Hopefully this will all work out and am now deciding which pattern to start with first! Thank you for a well presented tutorial and appreciate your time and thoughtful approach to this topic.

I am fascinated by this process. I have drafted hundreds of patterns using every method from the Eyeball & Pray technique to Winifred Aldrich’s Metric Pattern Cutting, but this is news to me.
Where does one learn more about this amazing method? I’m thinking about the space I could save by transposing my archived original designs into this format.

I learned sewing and altering from my mother, grandmother and great grandmother. I often had to alter patterns for myself and started using bits and pieces from multiple patterns to create my own designs. I eventually started making heirloom clothes for the infants and children in my Kure and discovered children’s patterns really need altering as children come in so many shapes and sizes! Years later I found a book on pattern making and taught myself to make patterns. Really comes in handy now that I’m addicted to making vintage doll clothes from the 40s and 50s. An added be if it is that dolls don’t wiggle! This video is great!

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So informative! Thank you for this!

I've found that even the big 4 lack wearing ease. Now the big 4 are the big 1.

Hi. I just watched the first one of your videos. I really would like to converse with you on this subject. Briefly, I made my 1st 2 piece dress for 4 H when I was 9. My Aunt helped me. I wore it to school and church proudly. About 18 months later someone let me choose a pattern and material and a zipper. I sware I dont remember much of that process. I know Mama had to help me understand the instructions. I did not have other help. I ended up with the cutest hiphugger with a flared skirt, sleeveless with a back zip and a rolled collar. It was a Simplicity pattern.` Oh yes it was orange with mod flowers. I wore it 2 years until I outgrew it. Anyway I kept sewing regulary. My older cousin gave me pointers until she moved just as I started HS. I made all my clothes for at least another 25 years and sewed some for others. I also made my wedding dress in 1974. I used our old treddle machine in the dorm room to sew it.Then my world crumbled. My husband got very sick. I had my hands full. I no longer had time to sew. He declined 10 or 12 years and passed away. After several years I met and eventually remarried. He had MS. I cared for him the best I could. Still no time for sewing. He passed 6,5 years ago. I have been vegetating. Due to numerous health problems I have become a sack of potatoes. I am sure I am taller than you and larger too. I do have narrow shoulders as you do. I dont have a dress form. I've never made a pattern. I had never heard of blocks or sloper until the last few months. I have bought 2 patterns and a couple hundred dollars of fabric. I've been online watching and seeking design ideas. I bought 2 used machines and had them cleaned and repaired. I dont even have any well fitting clothes that I would cut apart. I live alone and do not have anyone to help with measurements. I know this is rediculous. I have fond a style of Chinese skirt I would love to make. I can not find it even near my size. But with some direction, maybe I could figure it out. Would you be interested in helping me with this endeavour. I have not sewn in 30 years (I am 69). Thanks.

I actually have the original system. I’d have to dig it out, but I’m sure it comes with a booklet on how to use it. I’ll have to build up the gumption to try it out.

I am reteaching myself to sew. This is the info I wanted. I was drafting payterns for some simple bags, rolls and clutches last night and havimg fun with simple ideas and wishing I could do the same for clothing. Thank you!!

My grandma sewed by eye or drafted on literally anything. Rarely bough a pattern. usually a Vogue. But modern patterns are all the same. Get the pattermaking for fashion design 4th edition on is ideal and draft away. Make a block and go. If flat patterning is your jam, it all u will need. You can look at a garments style lines and copy it.

I've lost just over 11 stone in the last 10 months, I really need new clothes (more of them) so I will be making my own patterns.

You have such a nice manner. I really enjoy your teaching style.

I learned to sew without patterns from a lady from El Salvador who didn't speak English. I am so grateful for her teaching me.
Patterns are a lot of work to make fit.

Being realstic patterns are made to fit white women who have more sloped shoulders, less rounded hips, less bust than black women, so we cannot buy them and just cut as I see some women doing.

there are quite a few of these types of systems the most famous is the lutterloh from Germany.

I don’t understand that guide you used. Is that something you have to use with a pattern or do you make your own patter? I am always making adjustments when I sew—been a few years since I last did a project—but love to learn more

Lets go back to cave men & women days where there were no sewing patterns ruling our brains , lets jus go back to wearing what they wore , boy that would be sew refreshing , wouldnt it ? 😂

I've also run into the preschooler huge size problems with my granddaughter who lives thousands of miles away. It's taken about 16 months for her to grow into the outfits, even though I used her measurements against the pattern measurements.

this sounds like a home made version of the lutterloh system

I really want to learn how to draft my own patterns. You should create a book to accompany your tutorials! Also, I love your pink cutting mat. Where could I purchase one like it? It would match my sewing room decor perfectly! Thanks for sharing.❤️

Just landed on this video, I love you and your spirit, you speak to my internal freespiritedsewist😅.

I got lost as soon as you started on the pattern. I'm out.

Too complicated

Thank you. I went to school for commercial sewing but I know I never learned this💁🏽‍♀️🌼🌼🌼

I think I am a dum dum because I am still lost :(

Simplicity! Taking over sewing in a bad way - should we send them a Haslam System book to restart proper sweing ??????

What is your experience sewing vintage reproduction garments from the Big Four pattern companies? Do you draft your own patterns?