Learning to SURF in 90 Days

This is a classic ✨. The commentating, great storytelling, and slight yet successful humor. Makes this an awesome video. Loved the “a skinny weak dude” and the “I’ll never forget that… I forgot that” 😆💛😆
You win my subscription. 💯
Hope for you continued success man.

I'm 16 and decided to start surfing. I have friends who are almost pro surfers and are teaching me - worst thing in the world... They take me to the waves they surf, thought I was going to die😂 but it was just to show me what its all about. I'm learning on small waves now, enjoying every part of surfing even if I dont catch a wave! So lekker.

Chiccama! I was lucky enough to get it in full wave action!

Surfing has got to be THE hardest sport I’ve ever done.

You can’t even just practice every day. The swell needs to come in. The wind needs to be light and coming from the right direction. The tide has to be a certain height. And that’s just so you have surfable waves.

Nowwwww you need to compete with other people, read the waves, be in the right spot, and ride it well. And not one single wave is ever the same.

Skiing? The run is basically the same throughout the day. Dirt bike? The track doesn’t change much. Track? Just run. Football? Have at it. Soccer? Play anywhere. Tennis? Hit the court. Skating? Skate anywhere.

But surfing. You can’t just go any day. And some days are too small. Some days are too big. Conditions always change.

Props to you for your progress! It’s a lifelong sport you’ll never want to give up. Also, foiling, in my opinion, is by far the peak of surfing.

Greetings from Perú. I learn surfing in Makaha beach, Miraflores

Beat it kook never surf again we don’t want you crowding our line up

One of the biggest issues I see with you is that your hands aren’t cupped when you paddle for waves. Your paddling power is literally slipping through your fingers.

Paddle harder, earlier and more effectively and I guarantee you’ll catch more waves and progress much faster.

Paddling effectively is roughly 80% of learning to surf.

Surf instructor here, with over 2 decades of surfing experience. You can learn to stand on your first day, but being able to rip (do airs, critical turns and ride barrels) takes many years of surfing multiple times a week.

My biggest tips for beginners to learn as fast as possible:

1.) Get the right board, the more beginner friendly your board the easy it’ll be to paddle and the more waves you’ll catch and the easier it’ll be too stand. The wrong board will make your surf incredibly frustrating.

2.) Keep your feet together and your weight centred over your board while paddling and paddle hard for waves. Cup your hand ms while paddling.

3.) Practice “pop ups” on dry land.

4.) Surf as often as possible and stick to spots within your level.

5.) Learn the rules of surfing (don’t drop in).

6.) Learn how to duckdive

7.) Paddle hard and wait till you feel that you’ve caught the wave before getting up.

8.) Get up smoothly and keep your weight centred. Don’t lean too far forward or back.

9.) When your on your feet, keep your knees bent and maintain a low center of gravity.

10.) Where you look is where you, wherever your head and shoulders and pointing is where you’ll go.

I loved the little comment about the wetsuit! It's a common misconception that they keep you dry (that's what a dry suit does and its meant for WAY colder temps), but they actually keep you dry by allowing in a layer of water. This water is then trapped and heated by your body to act as an insulator!

I think the main reason you weren’t catching as many waves was because of your pedaling technique. It’s important to keep your chest up high which you did well, but then you have to dig your arms as deep as possible into the water. If you just pet the water like that you’ll never gain enough speed for most waves. You don’t pedal with just your hands but with your entire arms

Excellent video, as a person who recently tried surfing just for fun on vacation in Portugal, it caught me alot! Can't wait to get more waves in the future haha, surfing is so nice.

I just took up surfing at the start of the summer this year. I am 49. I have balance tho, bc i skated for 10yrs.
As you were telling me about your past attempts at a hobby i was thinking how in your case all you need
is commitment and learning to take joy in the learning process.
The learning process is not some obstacle in your way... it's where you build a lot of qualities within yourself which will keep you committed, make progress and find that joy.
Next to skateboarding and surfing i've been a hobby musician my whole life. I've had many hobbies which i had quit just like you did, until i started to realize the value of total commitment and learning to bite through the hard moments to reach your goal. Quick fixes are for the weak !! You have yourself a new subcriber !

Giờ thì bạn lướt sóng được chưa?

There is no age barrier to surfing. My dad started surfing at 52 ish.

SO accurate. My son started to surf at age 15. Me, an "in shape" 50 year old decided I wanted to try. Arms, ribs, overall very hard on the body like you said! I've stuck with it but have gravitated to stand up board as I was a) wanting to be on the water even with no waves (which is often here in NC in Summer) and paddling allows me to do that and b) I figured "I'm already standing, the board is huge with a lot of float, maybe I can catch more waves". The SUP has certainly allowed for me, a much more fun experience and I've been able to catch more waves and when I've gone back over to my longboard, I found my pop up and balance to be way way better. Still very challenging to catch them on long board vs. SUP but overall, it's been fun just being out there. The SUP is definitely more difficult to get out when waves get larger but at 55 now, I don't go out when it's bigger anyway. Too many wipeouts and dings and minor injuries already. Enjoy the ride! Loved the vid.

I've been obsessed with surfing since Point Break 1991!

Great video. Thank you. I used to surf when I was young, I live 1 mile from the beach in Gower, so have started again at 44. It’s brutal but so nice being in the water.

I am planning to start at 44 , So , my first step is moving closer to the coast, then learn swimming, and eventually surfing. Seems exciting hobby. Thanks for the video, I subscribed.

Love your bro, keep up the great work!! I have to tell you you've inspired me to get outside my comfort zone!

Just started surfing, video is so true. Good to know other people out there with same struggles, but triumphing

I have 52, i begin now. Ur video inspire me

its so cool BRO I want to learn SURF ! ;)

I loved the honesty in this video, had me chuckling 😅 I had a few lessons back home in SA but then moved to the North oh Thailand that’s landlocked 😢

I believe u were grabbing the rails at the take off. Try to get them on the board so u don't slip and hurt urself

I'm 46 and I'm learning now 😜

The struggle feels so close to home

Lovely vid lol.

You need to develop a better sense of how the board glides on the water. I suggest that you try boogie boarding for one day. You will learn how to set up for the wave how to recognize when it is cresting and how to catch it at that moment. You will also feel and hear what the board sounds like when it is gliding across the wave. Then you can try standing on a regular surfboard. I also think you are inconsistent in your foot placement on the board. Sometimes you have a slightly open stance, and sometimes you have a slightly closed stance. Your feet really need to be dead on the centerline of the board as if you were standing on a skateboard. That way you have more control over the board, plus you can react to whatever the board does much more easily. If your feet are not on the centerline of the board, you will be having to counteract the balance between your 2 feet as well as to whatever the board is doing. And that’s too difficult for you to do. Especially on such small waves. So if you stand up and feel like your feet are not on the centerline, don’t just let it go and try to ride. Shift your feet so that you’re on the centerline. That should be the first thing you do. That will help you get your balance from the very beginning of the ride. After that just look where you want to go. The board will follow your eyes. If you are on the centerline.

Great journey! Chicama is a great wave but by any means is a beginner wave. If you’re lucky you’ll have the best day ever. Unfortunately it’s being overrun by jet ski and small boats chartered by tourists.

Were you able to catch a green wave? Because all the waves you catched at the end were white waves

ahah use of memes here is seriously impresisve

Young dumb hit so hard

I sterted surfing on the Age off 40 something 😮

Dayum. This video is greatly made👍🏻

Surfing is reward. The reward is never predictable. This is what creates the addiction.

The intro is like Rattatouille 😂 So sweet!
“ Yep, that’s me! You probably wondering why-“

I live on Oahu Hawaii, as long as you’re respectful and don’t get in anyone’s way (stay at small tourist beaches if u a tourist) u don’t get chirped

Big thnx for this! I am also trying it, and very much disappointed by myself! Have possibility tonsurf only 3 days per year! This will help me, since you were honest showing that all this is normal.

This lifestyle destroys our planet and its beaches

looking good ya kook! I'm only kidding... keep it up and you'll be fine... it's not an easy dance;)

I have been surfing for 5 years now and i finally am starting to become better. I only took 3 lessons in my life. I hit a roof i couldnt turn couldnt paddle my avarage session with perfect waves was 3 waves in 3 hours. At the time i was 10 and i developed a fear from bigger and stronger waves. But finally one session i got a perfect wave went down the line and did a manouvre. I conquered my fear. That was the little push i needed. Now i call my self an intermediate. Am starting to learn some more advanced moves. And i know thats not alot of progress for 5 years but was to young to go surfing alone and i need to take the train for 2 hours so i can only surf maybe 5 to 8 sessions a year.

I surfed all through my 30's but haven't surfed for 20 years or so. Going to Costa Rica in January because I'll never get those years back. I can't live like that.

I started surfing at the age of 43 at playa Carrizalillo. I personally believe Puerto Escondido is the best place to start surfing. I took some lessons time to time. But so many surfers truly though how to teach and the equipment. I just followed their advice. Now I am 3 time competitor at playa Zicatela in front of Cafe Cito. Real Mexican Pipe for more than 10 years. Good luck to your new fun life.

this is such a good video, underrated.
I am literally the same, it's uncanny... what are the odds... the skating, the japanese... you are a truly unique person. keep it up.

Hey! I'm in my late 30's and just came back from a trip to Portugal where I learned to surf (and do yoga) for the first time. And I totally relate to your learning journey. I discovered it, loved it, fell a lot, had huge cramps in my legs, and was mad at myself about my current physical condition... Surf is a way more complete sport than I thought - but love every bit of it !!! Now I'm hooked! I live in the north of Europe with no direct access to a nice shore but I continue practicing yoga, especially all the movements linked to surfing, bought a balance board which I stand on in my living room ("stand lower, look higher ! " 🙂), will resume roller skating that I enjoyed years ago to strengthen my legs, binge watch everything I can find about surf, and strategize about moving somewhere close to nice surf spots. Hooked !!!
Amazing how when you love something, you find a way. 🤞

seems like you started your surf journey with a hardboard which seems pretty challenging. Haven’t you thought of starting with a foamie and then switching to a hardboard? Choosing a board appropriate for your level is a vital point in learning how to surf.

This is fantastic, just started surfing at 46 in Australia, not very good but soooo much fun teaching myself.

You gotta stop this. You can learn to stand on a board and do a turn in 90s days if you're a kid, but surfing well takes years. I know cuz I've been at it since 1962.