WHY is no one TALKING about these Tools?

I got lighter version with a flint stricker attached $10

for the first one, imagine the tube isn't alu but is ferro rod......that'd be a good compact combo there. and for those who don't know, ferro rod as a whole piece take 10+ mins sitting inside camp fire to light up.

I saw the fire cord thing about a year ago and decided to make my own. I already had some Asian jute rope on hand, but it is pretty easy to twist garden jute cord into a 2 foot rope once you know the trick. Soak the rope in some hot wax (beeswax and/or paraffin), maybe with something to make it work better in the winter or light quicker, such as a little turpentine and/or a VERY small amount of potassium nitrate (root killer). A large amount of root killer means you need a fire bucket to put it out - by throwing it in the bucket of water. I used some old aluminum tent pole tubing for the holder, but one of those tent pole repair kits should also have the tubing you need.

Sorry mate, just another advertisement, with nothing that I am likely to purchase.

I have that axe. Take some time and sand the handle down to 1500 grit. Boiled Linseed oil. Feels so much better.

Folding saws, got to be the Agawa Boreal 21. Blades cheap and can be bought in any hardware store, plus you can carry spares and what cuts better than a full size bowsaw. Love mine. No more folding saws for me.

You really need to rethink that fixed saw, unlike the silky, it does not have a full tang blade.

I think everyone needs at least one really good pack hatchet!!! I've been using my condor Greenland hatchet now for a little over 3 years now and it's extremely awesome to carry and use... its small enough to pack yet large enough to most camp chores

I run a council tool boys axe and it's amazing doesnt come with a mask but I do Leather work so easy fix. My gavorite it the Husqvarna woodcraft axe i have made so muchbstuff using that axe. It made by hults bruks

Per link: I could not find where the power cord goes. Folding saw:
Brand SAMURAI
Color Multicolor
Power Source Corded Electric
Item Weight 8 Ounces
Blade Length 24 Centimeters

Less pressure on the push stroke for silky saws. They only cut on the pull, but man do they eat! I've never broke one, but I have worn out some teeth going hard in two-handed mode, but the gomboys are not designed for that. Lesson learned.

Near as I can figure it's simply Parafin dissolved in Kerosene then soak the rope in it should be easy to make

Lookin' good! 🔥

A $150 Hatchet? ..Wtf

I am sorry, but if I look on this Silky Sawblade, that is almost ruined by resin or something like that, I know that wasn't maintainaced since second worldwar! A Worktool is only as good as the worker by itself... Maintanance your tools when its need to be! You dont must oil your blades or your tools now everyday, at least 2 times in a month espacially if they are heavy used more often then. I don't think you can say there are better things on the foldingsaw/saw market like silky. Bit expensive, but every good quality got his number you must pay. And a Question! How long you used your broken silky till it was broken?

Nice video. The saws are made by Samurai. The models are Ichiban and Kisi.

You had my full attention untill you based that knife through chunks of pre cut firewood. You lost my confidence in anything you had said when you did that.

They're getting rare as paper book matches, now that everyone vapes( dry cleaning their lungs).

I can tell you why no one is talking about these, because they are a simple firestarter you could make yourself, a hatchet, a saw and a knife and that's really NOTHING new to be amazed about!

I'm just a dumb hick, but wouldn't it have been smarter to make that tube on that firestarter out of the firesteel material, so you could just throw the sparks forward onto the frayed end?

You can make the tinder wick for less then 10 dollars and get about 3' long one

Brisa is Enzo. The name has been changed to protect the innocent.

sawing with a silky is an art lol. joke but getting used to a pull saw takes time!

any cotton rope works fine in that homemade rope lighter [sailors match]. the wax makes it keep flame instead of just an ember but uses a lot of rope. I use a silky big boy and a laplander, covers everything, I don't understand the problems people have using a silky saw? nothing with having a variety in knives but variety itself does nothing. I thought this was going to be about different tools not brands. council axes are great but do not justify the price, I have that much of a problem with my hatchet. keep it up

The wick is 14 dollars in the US, and 45 pounds in the UK? What the actual fuck.

I made my own years ago for my kit works good 👍

I just bought a couple Council tool axes and couldn’t believe how thin the handles are compared to Gransfors, Hults, etc. They are ridiculously thin, I can’t even hang on to them.

Its slow match, used in reenactment to fire off Black power muskets.
"A bunch of elbow grease?" you can get a Transfers Bruks for the same price

Hey, do me a favor: Drop the phrase, “In my opinion.” Your audience knows it’s your opinion. To keep repeating it undercuts an otherwise professional presentation full of great content! I’m looking forward to trying some of this equipment. Ask any professional speech-writer or editor and they will tell you to ditch “In my opinion…”

Yeah I won't be buying any of this it's all overpriced. The fire tender rope I can make myself for just a few dollars in the ax well I've already got an estwing camp ax this far as the knife goes I already have a Mora and I make knives myself.

I bought a Black & Decker folding saw from family Dollar for $5 and have been using it to cut through fatwood and Osage orange which is one of the hardest woods in Texas for the past 4 years and it is still. There's absolutely no reason to spend 45 plus dollars on a saw that is going to be in your backpack for the majority of its life.

Considering you don't even know how to properly use your Ferro rod and Striker I'm not surprised you haven't heard of these.

Hey Aaron, I have an odd request. Can you make some recommendations regarding gear for photography and videography in the outdoors? Essentially, what's a good, manageable setup to film and photograph things I do, places I explore, and gear I use in the outdoors? I'll say that in my environment, cold is not much of an issue, but humidity and salt are. I'm guessing there's a whole set of post-production considerations as well, but perhaps that's a whole other subject. Whatever you're able to recommend, I'd love to know about.

Yep

Thanks for a very good video. Up here in Canada these Council Tool Woodcraft Axes cost between $265 and $300 putting them in the price bracket of what some would call 'boutique axes'. When these Woodcraft Axes came onto the market they were about half of that price, considering they are not yet 10 years old I think that is too much of a price hike. For sure the thought put into the design of this axe is very good based on the need of an average bushcrafter/woodcrafter, but there has been a number of critical reviews that indicate quality assurance has been lacking, for example, uneven grinds on blade edge, less than perfect fitment of haft. At $265-$300 I think it is fair to expect the highest standards of fit and finish. I am not a newbie fanboy of the latest gizmo, I have learned about the history of many axes, refurbished, modified and used axes for over 50 years.

Not sure how you've ever managed to break a silky. I'm an arborist and use a silky daily for the past four years. Never broken one. Only ever seen someone break one because they were trying to do the bulk cutting on the push motion, whereas the silky cuts on the pull.

Tks for the info... .great tools

thanks...

I have a folding saw that I use for gardening and camping both. I think it’s a Friskar or something… just a box box store folding saw. It’s lasted me many m any years. For knives, I have an inexpensive Mora and two Opinel carbon steel knives. My backup fire starting tool is a magnesium rod and striker tool that my dad got me decades ago and a piece of flint (knives are carbon steel). As a woman, I always have a tampon and lip balm, so no problem! 😂

Just an FYI Überleben means To Survive. It is German, hello from NRW Germany.

I started out with corona saw. They are bullet proof. They have been made for arborist that use them all day everyday. I bought a council tool axe a few years ago cost me $56. But it's the Hudson bay cruiser. Or maybe they call it Hudson bay boys axe. Its a mid size axe.

That rope lighter was used by boy scouts in their early days. If you find some old boy scout manuals you might be able to find how they used to make them

$150 hatchet and a Mora but not a Mora for triple the price(dang better have a leather sheath). No amazing tools we’ve never seen before.
I watched a guy with a channel in Russia for some years using silky saws and rarely if ever seen him break a blade. I think that’s more of a user issue rather than heat treat issue.

Those saws look great but 350 for a nylon backpack and 60 for a 12c27 mora look alike are way too high. Which is what I would have to be to buy one. I could get a garberg for 55.00. This must be the "Rolex bushcrafter" stuff I keep hearing about. If I thought I would get enough use out of it those axes are really nice.

Thanks.

$350-$500 for the jacket is nuts

Cool tools. I started using Japanese shark tooth pull saws back in the '80s for carpentry not Bushcraft.

Nice stuff. Thanks for showing us and take care.

Most snapped Silky blades are the result of deficient technique, and not any fault of the product. With the correct (pull style) technique, it should be nearly impossible to snap a blade. People are generally using the same technique they became familiar with using the Laplander, or similar blades, with predictable results. Used correctly, a Silky generally outpaces a Laplander, and will last for years and more with no incidents. It all comes down to the return (push) stroke - this should be very light, and slower, as its task is merely to clear the kerf of sawdust, NOT cut. After all, one is seldom in a race to finish a cut anyway. Another cause of blade failure is when users use a Silky like a carpenter's saw. In other words they position their bodies above the object being sawn, and tend to push down. With a pull-style saw it's useful to have the work positioned higher so that one is almost forced to pull horizontally towards you, then lightly return the blade for the next pull cut. It's a typical skill used by professional arborists in their work, and it DOES require some new skills, and exercise and practice. Failure to do this can easily lead to blade failure.
I hope this clarifies the issue for some viewers who might be wondering.