Can You Develop Super 8 & 16mm AT HOME?? | Analog Resurgence WEEK

Why couldn’t I get 110 film reels for a Paterson tank?

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Bro looks like a young Edgar wright.

I rarely have trouble developing 35, 120, etc., film. Only once out of about 12 tries did I get images developing 8mm or 16mm movie film. The one successful time I used Caffenol but I had a considerable amount of damaged film. Today I avoid movie film.

Can i process expired Kodachrome sound?

The Morse tank worked in a strange way. Unlike all other developing tanks (including the Lomo), it did not try to separate the layers of film. Instead, you constantly wound the film back and forth (by hand!) between the two reels, exposing the film to the chemicals mainly when it was between the reels. I find it hard to believe that this worked, but as their ad says, the U.S. Military says it did!

There was another "home method" called the separator strip. This was thin plastic 16mm wide, with bumps on both edges. You wound the film and strip together onto a standard projection reel, and then you could dunk that in a tray of chemicals. I tried this method and it didn't work very well... not all the film managed to get the chemical applied correctly. There was also a rotary drying rank that was designed to shrink slightly as the film shrunk while drying! (You'd need one of those with the Morse tank as well - I can't image you could dry 100' of film or even a 33' D8 roll, by hanging it with a clothespin!) --Gary

"No rules when you are shooting film". Agreed! especially if you are an experimental filmmaker. You are not bound by the conventions and norms of the mainstream Hollywood system. This is especially true with respect to frame rate. In experimental film you are usually telling a story about rogue/controversial/ unconventional subjects. And even more so when there are no people or most common animated carbon based life forms in your movie you are free to go with lower frames rates like 16 or 18 fps for the sake of flim economy. Also, most people will not know the difference under such circumstances.

Where is a lab that will develop double 8 film?

What lab do you use or recommend for super 8mm movie film?

Was the good 8mm film usually Kodachrome? Kodachrome 64 slide film. It's the best thing ever.

Fantastic. I love your enthusiasm. It's amateurs trying things that really moves the world forward.

I remember, in the late 70s, I borrowed a friends Super 8 camera to film some "private" stuff. I decided to develop Super 8 Kodachrome film with my B&W negative kit. I used buckets in my dark room, fitted with a color safe lamp (it was really, really dark though). Strangely, I did get a watchable result (B&W only and really faded).

All these experiments were really fun. I also discovered that I could create half-tone silk screens by just using Letraset "dot screens" on "photosensitive screen paint".

I was just a teenager, but the memories of the dark, the light and the chemicals remains ingrained as "exciting and fun".

How do you dry your super 8 film after developing it?

I’ve developed super 8 film in a Paterson tank before but I don’t recommend it. What I use now is I use a 3D printed tank that’s similar to the lomo tanks

EXPERIMENT AND LIKE GO HARD AND LIKE SHOOT FILM AND DO CRAZY STUFF ALWAYS

Can I use Tetenal E6 for Ektachrome 100 ?

is the chemicals to develop them same as the chemicals used for c41 film photos?

You can definitely develop it but how do you digitize it?

I have several frozen 400' exposed reels of tri-x reversal film. That is what I'm trying to develop...

Thanks for the video. I appreciate your hard work. I am from Toronto. I am searching e-bay for LOMO tank. I found, most of the LOMO tanks that can only take max.10 meter film. but the regular kodak cartridges film length is 15m ( 50') . is there any LOMO tank in bigger capacity? pls. let me know.

By far the best method of getting professional results is to have a rack that the film is looped around: the film won't jam like with a spiral reel and the chemistry won't get areated like with a rewind tank. The key in designing these racks and tanks is that you have to use construction materials that won't interfere with the chemistry and cause cross-contamination. Type 316 stainless steel (what many processing tanks for still film are made of) is supposed to be good, I've also read in some Kodak processing tanks about titanium and Hastelloy C. Most plastics are supposed to work well, too. I think the best way to address this is via 3D printing.

There are no labs in India. What to do?

How do labs develop?

sure we can. I did it back in late 80s when I was a kid. and it was bulky soviet slide processing that included 'lighting step' - lightening 5 or 10 minutes with 500w halogen lamp over opened tank (can't remember exactly the time)
whole processing of 1 roll of super-8 film took ~ 2 hrs 40 min (processing of 2 rolls at once required 2 liters of chemistry which was economically unviable for us)
I did 5 rolls in a one day once - it took me 12+ hrs )))

I’m still staying away from E-6 because I haven’t got a temperature regulator and stuff is expensive.

I'm interested in learning how some people have successfully home-developed Kodak Tri-X Super 8 as a negative.

Hi Noah. I have been on an art film hiatus for a few years now, and watching your videos is getting me re-inspired. I use a morse tank and find it great for black and white negative. But I found it impossible to do black and white reversal in it because you can't "bleach" the film fast enough using the cranks. You would have to use a lomo tank or buckets.
The screen cap you have of the super 8 black and white reversal process? Ya, that's my hand with the pink kitchen glove! Hahahaha
Memories.

If you like to print at home then more reason to just send it in.

Ok so can you use a sort of red room to develope the film or does it just need to be pitch black?

It seems a modernised version of the Morse seems to be the simplest construction. Doesn't require a specialised spool and the laborious winding could be automated.

whats the deal with those rolls inside a tank, do they make sure that the film gets zero contact on the film layer? if so, how?

Where I can send either 8mm or 16mm for develop and digitize that can take order internationally? I want to try these stuffs but there isn't a single lab in Thailand that can process motion film properly. (There are only a very high end lab that process film for local film industry which is only in 35mm format). Or else, must I develop them at home with those expensive and really old tank?

Hey are you sure your name is Noah and not Jay Baruchel?

Which labs are best or which labs do you recommend?

Why do you never mention Regular 8? It uses double-spocketed 16mm film, but you need to split it down the middle after developing.
You don't mention in your video how you remove Super-8 film from the cassette. It's not easy.

Can someone please 3d print lomo developing tank? I really want to make super 8 films but I don't have 200 dollars for developing tank

Thanks for sharing! Interesting!

Does anyone know the most affordable way to scan super8, 8mm,or16mm to digital at home for preservation purposes?

I have a few questions. I just bought a Silver Star 16mm Film Cine Movie Camera. Can I get B&W or Color film magazines for this camera? Also could I load my own magazine? Thanks.

thanks you rule

So, i know you can cross-develop, and do ektachrome as a negative, and use monochrome chemicals on colour, but can you develop, say 50D with black and white reversal process and have it come out as a positive? I just briefly heard someone mention something alike some time ago, but my logical mind says that it won't work, the same way that you can't develop tri-x in colour negative process, and expect full colour. Is it possible to develop colour negative as monochrome reversal, and get positives?

I actually have some experience in modeling with 3d printing in mind, I might take a shot at designing some development tanks that you can print at home, Ill probably start with 35/120 film tanks first though as a proof of concept. If your interested ill let you know if i make anything usable.

You can develop super 8 in a regular patterson tank, you just have to ball the film up and stick the pole through that ball... I've done it multiple times

Briliant video!

Do 110 still filmslides fit into those tanks ? I have exposed two cartridges and would consider developing at home

The later Morse tanks, specifically the arkay Morse g-3 with plastic reels and no window, are capable of being used for super 8 films. However, to get consistent results, you will need to rewind once per minute for 100’, twice a minute for 50’, and 4 times a minute for 25’. The real difficulty is finding a film drying rack, which needs to be able to spin dry so you don’t get water spots.

Dear Noah, I am an avid follower of your channel. It happens that I have a degree in industrial design and love analog film. I own a LOMO tank, but I consider it very expensive, most of them are only available in Russia and Ukraine and are becoming scarce, plus and shipping form Eastern Europe is pretty steep. The price of LOMO tank on Ebay can go between 200 and 300 USD depending on its condition, shipping will easily add 50 USD. I am in Colombia, here there are no labs (and is most of South America) that can process super 8 or 16mm film, just a couple of persons will develop DIY. Because of all the issues mentioned, I have been developing a super 8 developing tank that can be 3D printed, I hope at lower price than the LOMO tank. The LOMO design is pretty good in terms of internal space which means it does not demand the use of excessive chemistry, but the design is old and uses and obsolete bakelite material, so the walls are thick and overall the tank is heavy and prone to fracture. Loading of the LOMO tank is not easy, but it can be mastered with practice. I am struggling to get a design that can be easy loaded a eventually be used for 16mm film development without having to cut the film the compromise here is that it will probably consume more chemistry than the LOMO. The design is in an early stage and still I have a lot of prototyping to do. I don't own a 3D printer and because of the COVID 19 situation for now we are locked and on standby. I will try to keep perfecting the design on CAD 3D software.

In the 1970's a college friend and I got interested in movies. He eventually went on to a Bolex H8 camera converted by Jaakko Kurhi to Double Super 8. A company called "Esoess" ("Eso-Ess"?)was a "short end" 16mm movie film vendor for the hobbyist and even sold a "process your movie film at home kit."

After watching your videos on 16mm and 8mm I'm seriously thinking of getting my Bolex out and start filming again. Haven't shot much since the 80's. I don't know where my S8mm equipment is after we moved. I guess hunting for lost treasure is its owm reward. At least my Bolex is still working!

the 35mm tanks seem good for developing test strips of motion picture film to figure out the best developing times