Zipline PROPS Look CRAZY! So We MADE Them | Free STL Download

what if blowing hot air on prop while printing instead of putting them in a fryer after printing.

or put your printer in an oven.

nylon dude

I keep wondering if bigger, slower props will be quieter. More surface area for lift means props can spin slower, right?

every try making a small mold and then doing a forged carbon fiber, and have super durable, glass smooth props.

Why does the team behind Zipline keep their designs secret? They're an organization engaged in altruistic work, so how does keeping their designs secret help humanity? I don't understand that part.

cook em in salt ;)

I have designed and printed some 5" zipline-style props to compare against some other printed props for a project. I MSLA printed them in a mix of Siraya Tech Blu and Siraya Tech fast resin. The surface finish was good and they were almost balanced right of the print plate. So far they have managed to slowly ramp up to 23 000 rpm before exploding. I haven't tested the thrust yet but will soon. Just going off how much air they are blowing compared to regular props I assume it would be possible to fly on them but would need, on my 5" fpv quad, a throttle stop at about 70%. Maybe soon I will flight test them.

For better sheer strength, consider metal reinforcement. Extra light aluminum strip just inside the outer rim of the blade, creating a tension pulling inwards along the whole prop. Cheap, light, solid, reusable. Its the method I do for anything that needs to hold any sort of weight, because 3d prints are notorious with sheer because of the layering

For strength it’d probably be better to print in something that melts with ISO and fume smooth the outside which would not only make it more aerodynamic but would eliminate layer lines on the outside. It may even be beneficial to anneal the props then fume smooth after that.

why not cut them out of a nylon block?

you could try 3d printing a injection mold.

ABS or peek :)

Re: Injection molding.

You can make limited-use injection molds for some lower-temp thermoplastics on a resin printer using special high-temp resins. You would still have to make an injector, but the resin and collars for printed molds are both sold at reasonable prices for people who want low-volume manufacture that's too much to be entirely 3D printed but not economically viable to have actual dies cut from steel or aluminum.

If you do end up exploring this, have fun with it! HDPE is infinitely recyclable and might be strong enough to work - then you can make a video called "Making groundbreaking propellers out of laundry detegent bottles!" or the like

Why do you print 4 props and risk them on a drone when you could just spin them on a motor to test their strength ?

I cannot believe how two third of the video is coming to the conclusions it needs to be printed horizontally.

Every 3D printer pruchase should come with a physics class.

Honest question here. Shouldn't you print them so that the layer lines are along the long axis of the blades? The way you print them, it seems natural that they would fly apart since the force is perpendicular to the layers. No haters please. Only honest answers.... EDIT - my question was answered later in the video. NVM

Why use these kind of props? They develop a strong dynamical unbalance by nature, because aia forces are strongly asymmetrical. Guess why no single manufacturer in avaiation makes use of them.

Thin super glue.

Try JLC to make tose props for you...

Yup I live in Ohio the saying goes don’t like the weather wait 5 minutes

Resin print a mold and then pour them.

What about printing the prop and then coating it with fiberglass resin. I think it would make
it a lot stronger

Of course now it's time for
a toroidal zip line prop.

Get an SLA printer. Problem solved!

That prop looks like the Playboy symbol.

I would use HDPE filament and inverse 3d print it as a reusable pressure mold for forged carbon. It’s cheap, simple, lightweight and durable.

If you want to do injection molding you can 3d print a mold. Use the high temperature stuff and print 100% infill then use lower temp plastic to injection mold. For an injector it is fairly easy to make one from low cost steel pipe. Make a plunger and a nozzle then use an Induction heater to heat the steel pipe. It will take some trial and error to get the temp right but you can easily and cheaply do it

So has no one used resin to print any of these props??

You'd doubtless be better off printing molds and then laying in carbon fibre or fiberglass and pouring epoxy.

I think the stylized lines of the propeller help a lot, they are extremely balanced and the counterweight is flatter and longer

us hot salt oven bath to fuse them

Hi everyone. How about thrust imbalans? Your props have a force only at one side. And this force is huge. It will destroy your bearings. I disagree! It's a bad idea.

not too sure how equal your test if your comparing what looks ike a very rough surface prop vs a very smooth prop.

Make a singe blade propeller.

Could maybe try to make a 3d printed mold and for a forged carbon fiber propellor

I aneal in powered salt it works great put it in a vacuum bag vacuum sealed

Try printing with nylon

Why did they choose FDM? I can't wrap my head around when it seems people don't really choose their manufacturing method based on the application... 🙄

It may be quieter...buy what about efficiency and how much difference in thrust?

The point is to make them quiet like the mark rober video so i dont have a drone confrontation & possibly have cops called. Also use standard manufacturing techniques so the drone doesnt fall out of the sky.

print in ABS and soak them in acetone

Hi, for greater resistance have you tried putting UV resin on these propellers, applied with a brush so that it remains a thin layer I think it could strengthen the resistance?

If we picture the Zipline-prop as a single unit being used in a tractor configuration so that one of the two offset blades is first being forward, does it matter which is advanced and which is trailing? This may be a stupid question but, when geese fly in V formation the trailing bird must be above to catch the pressure wave from it's leading bird. I imagine the second blade of the prop should trail behind to catch the wave to amplify the thrust, but if it does will this alter the acoustics or the performance?

I have flown with well balanced PLA props, no they last and don't self destruct. The key lies not as much in the material as is in the aerodynamics. There are a few shortcomings in your design. From
aerodynamics perspective, your blade pitch is way too high (must be low for vtol drone applications). Also, the streamlining of the blades is what you missed out on from Zipline. Your blades seem to have resultant force close to the root while that from Zipline is away from the root. These make a lot of difference as far as vortex shedding and induced resonance are concerned....

It’s not just what you use to print with but how you print it. You need to find the correct angle so that the layer lines are longitudinally their longest with less separation.

Mill and a block of Delrin. Not even a particularly fancy mill.

And by all that's holy, learn what "annealing" means. You're not doing it, and you seriously don't want to do it. What you're doing is way closer to "sintering"', although it isn't that, either.

Let's call them bunny props!