Comparing Costco Kirkland Oil to Mobil 1 After 10,000 Miles

Made me fall asleep

Should change oil at no more that 5000 miles between changes. Remember oil is cheaper and an engine.

Most oils are purchased from a major and repackaged, and Lubrizol or a very short list of competitors design the add pack for the base oils used to fill ALL bottles. There is very little bespoke oil in the industry these days and across the board quality is so far superior compared to 10-20 yrs ago so bottle to bottle quality is pretty good.

Very good video. My new Grand Cherokee has a clock for oil change. When I am at around 9K, the clock shows 10% life left. The dealer puts a sticker after an oil change to come back at 5K. Hello???? The service manual states to follow the instruments.

No doubt this reviewer did a good job in his comparison. But his results are just his results for his specific car. They aren’t statistically significant and aren’t a controlled test. If you have a European vehicle you absolutely need to use an oil that meets your brands specifications. So Kirkland and regular Mobile 1 are not options for European cars.

The 10,000 mile oil change interval was driven by European regulations which wanted to reduce the consumption of oil by extending oil change intervals. So for my VW’s I only use oils that meet VW specifications.

Ive been using pup on my ram 5.7. Shpuld I give kirkland a try? Why mess with a good thing.

I put STP injector cleaner and STP gas treatment every time I fuel up. 🙂

Mobil1 synthetic 10k miles is no problem still looks and performs like new

Don't care what oil you use, if you do mainly city driving change oil every 3000 miles mainly highway miles every 5000 miles. Oil is always cheaper than a new engine.

Should I still change my 2011 Lexus RX 450h's oil, even if the oil is a clear amber color (not dark), after 3 years of driving 2000 miles only?

I have my Suburban with 320k miles and always use Castrol Synthetic Oil with changes every 7k miles or so. I use Wix XP premium oil filters. Most synthetics are fine and most high quality filters are fine as well. If I drive a few thousand miles, there's no drop in the oil level. It's important to treat and eliminate leaks, because you never want to be low on oil. If you have any leak, fix it immediately - often just at Barr's Stop Leak works great for Transmissions and Engine Oil. Keeping Oil full helps to cool the engine and coolant should be full and any leaking corrected - it's dangerous to be low on coolant, so check it often.

Your engine does burn oil , it may not be a noticeable amount . If it did not burn a small amount of oil, your upper ring package would have failed .

Oil is so cheap compared to another car or engine swap job I just dont get it? I get 8 quarts of Mobile 1 for like 60 bucks and change every 3k miles or so myself.. I drive mainly city miles in a high performance, heavy sedan.. so I want to keep this fantastic peice of engineering in the best shape possible... so for saving a few hundred bucks a year.. is it worth the risk?

That lab does not tell you about carbon building up in that oil over-time! These carbon deposits are microscopic and act like sandpaper to your cylinder walls and pistons. I would never risk it

awesome info! i was alway curious about the lab analysis on kirkland oils

mobile 1 sucks

Since Toyotas can last, you should do 5k oil changes. If you do 10k oil changes, your timing chain might have to be replaced and you may lose compression (after about 150k miles).

I used mobil one on my gmc every 5000 miles which i run for 200000 and it runs like new

Changing your oil every 5k miles or less is the most important thing you can ever do for your engines

Mobile one is Kirkland. The only thing different is the label. Mobile One has too high an ash content for North America

I have been using Kirkland 5w30 for my 2010 Yaris for years, and recently, got a 2004 GMC Sierra 5.3 which also uses the same 3W30, so it makes sense for me to continue to buying the two bottle box as it makes it easy for me to make my regular oil changes, but also my vehicles are running great! I drive them fairly hard, moslty on the freeway, especially the Toyota, which is our daily driver. Toytota last change at 165k and truck at 202k So I average around 5000 miles with a good filter.

This comparison is bogus. That is the old Mobil 1 oil I don't even see sold anymore. I now use the Mobil 1 Extended performance guaranteed for 20,000 miles. So why are you using oil sold 20 years ago instead of what is available today? Not credible. Sorry. I have been changing oil now after 10,000 miles with Mobil 1 and when I change, the oil is still relatively clean, meaning it had a lot of life left still.

Companies recommend ten thousand miles oil changes when the vehicle is under warranty. Five thousand when the oil changes are not on there dime. I know guys with well over 300,000 miles on there trucks using conventional oil. Changed oil and filter every (old school) 3,000-3500 miles. Walmart full synthetic about $21.00 for five quarts blended by Warren oil company Walmart had the best prices for oil.

You can’t buy a bad oil. The government is up the ass of oil companies to produce quality oil. Emissions air pollution and global warming BS💩 Walmart is the same as Kirkland. Both blended by Warren oil company. Look on the back same exact letters and numbers.

How much does Costco pay for you?

Lol, all these morons in the comments that don't believe in science or testing. 10k is too long, even though the data says the opposite... Because i said so! LMAO

I've never seen a bad Kirkland review. It's good for the price.

3K-4K miles on every oil / filter change. ****Replace the drain plugs with FUMOTO Drain Valves****

I just do 5k changes because that way I am safe if I am 1-2k late.

The Amazon basic synthetic oil is also good.

So how does the engine failure correlate with this difference? That’s the only important question here.

The problem with 10k oil is what is left inside engine. Sludge builtup

Mobil 1, like about every oil, used to be real synthetic. Then Castrol brought out SynTech without POE and PAO in about 2000 and every other company took it out as well and charged the old price. The terms "Synthetic", "Full Synthetic" and "!00% Synthetic" are marketing terms and have no legal meaning. In Germany, if you use the word "Synthetic", it must have PAO and/or POE. As for changes over 5k for Toyotas, watch the video on YT by "The Car Care Nut". In a word, "NO".

Real Synthetic (Group 4/5) has a higher flash point. Less coking in piston rings and turbo bearings.

Both phony synthetic called Group 3. Clogs oil rings after 5k. But I use Kirkland because both meet API specs. Why pay more than Kirkland. Kirkland, made by Warren, is same as Amazon Basics, Wal-Mart SuperTech, MAG 1, just cheaper. Mobil 1, like Penzoil Platinum and Castrol Edge is overpriced. Might as well buy Royal Purple, Redline or AMSOIL Signature - the only U.S. Group 4/5 real synthetics. Group 3 has no APO or POE synthetic bases which makes real synthetic oil much more costly. Group 3 costs about $ 2.50 a quart or less to make. It's only Dino Oil or NG molecularly-modified.

Recently saw a Project Farm video comparing a number of synthetic oils.
According to the UOA’s , SuperTech did slightly better than the Kirkland version.
Essentially, they are identical.
Just saying this because if you don’t have a Costco membership or don’t want one (like me), you can still get a quality synthetic oil at a great price.
$18.99 for a 5 quart jug .

10,000 mile oil changes will get you through the warranty period but it's not recommended for engine longevity if you are planning to drive your car until the wheels fall off so to speak, long-term. 5,000 miles max is my advice having kept a ton of engines for well past where others throw them away. Contaminants build up in sensors like VVT Sensor screens / turbo screens when oil is run too long between Oil Change Intervals as well as varnish build-up which can also cause solenoids to stick. You can also get excessive timing chain stretch as well which doesn't show up as increased metals on your reports. Oh and varnish and debris build up in your rings. You are asking for problems if you want to keep it past 200K miles.

MSDS tells what type base oil is if you know what to look for and how to read the MSDS. Some companies do not tell you WHAT they use is they have proprietary additives that do not have to be classified as hazardous. That's the rub.

Running 10k miles before changing the oil is a bit long in my opinion. In my opinion, full synthetic oil should be changed at about 5k/6 months. Don't forget to check the oil level every 2k miles (depending on whether the car is old or new), check it more often on older cars. I participate in a lifetime oil change package from Mazda on my CX-5. So I feel very secure about this, because I use the car very little, so every 6 months/2k miles I go to Mazda to change the oil. I don't know how long the motor will last??

10K oil change....hm...sometimes you can get costco oil at $17 per 5q jug....filters are about $5-6 each if you find on sale. $23 DIY oil change !!! 5K is the ONLY way to go !!!

This guy makes his money by his opinions, his choices aren’t set in stone , just like Google entices people to listen to so many Doctors out there making money off of their books, pills or whatever ! Pick out the good stuff and make choices with learning, kind of like voting for your next president. Trump is NOT the answer to our PRAYERS !!!

The worst thing about doing oil changes at 3k to 5k is the chance mechanic makes mistakes . If you want to best take care of your engine, do the 3,500 to 4,500 mile oil changes !!!

Do you really want to worry about saving a couple of bucks when you're trying to protect a $20,000 engine. Just sayin...

my ex works for Chevron engine oil department, even she uses mobile1 and not their own company's top oil, she does analysis on her own car after each oil change as well

how do you get an oil test done?

It is possible that the fuel additive freed up the top piston ring. The additive gets pushed into the top ring during the compression stroke. Better ring sealing keeps fuel from passing the rings.

Good testing and info. Thanks for bringing this to us.
I think for these tests, a fuel additive should be used every 2000 miles. But use a lubricant type, and the same one, so the test will not have another variable. Use the recommended concentration.
I agree that 10,000 miles on an oil change is ok for 90 % freeway driving, AND a fairly new engine (less than 100K miles). 5000 for mostly city driving.

I’ve always been a mobile one guy but just picked up 2, 5 quart jugs at Costco for 38.99

great informative video, did a good job of explaining the data.