DIY 80/20 Simrig - Death Mobile 3.0 - The Build

Forget "3.0", this build is worthy of the name, Death Mobile 3000!!! 😁

Just watched this again and I do like your boxed in frame design!

Do you have a link or info of where you purchased the 80/20?

I'm just gonna say it. $300? I don't believe that for a second.

Great video, thank you

it's so painful with shipping costs to the middle east, shipping costs more than the rig price. This will help a lot thank you.

So you hit on the major drawback of 80/20 style profiles. You need to think ahead, or take things apart to add in more fasteners. I wish the popular profiles had spring nuts similar to the likes of Unistrut/Powerstrut and B-Line struts. I have actually been looking at doing a Unistrut chassis, the stuff is tough as nails, and ugly as sin.

8020 is reasonable, but connectors and nuts are the real cost

Awesome thank you for the video😊

How would you mount a base like a Moza R5/R9 that has screws on the bottom?

Great video Sean. Thank you.

I would love to see a motion Sim setup using these 8020s!

"Usually affordable"
During about 9 frames of the +$1000 GT Omega rig that's since dropped to nearly $500 as the company is clearly bleeding money.

i diy´t my own aluminum profile rig too . different to the most i only used 3030 and 6030 instead of 4040 / 8040 , so a bit smaler diameter tubes but even they are sturdy enough, and way cheaper
i spend about 160 € for tubes and about 60€ for hardware . i use it for over a year now and it still holds up .

I'm glad to see the price point mentioned. I feared it would be a lot more actually, though it is a different aluminum extrusion supplier I'm familiar with (custom Voron 2.4 3D printer build). What led me here is the desire to make a combination racing/flight simpit and just not being exactly sure where to start with my design. But I have the skills, I have the knowledge, I have the tools, I have the motivation, and I have the hobbyist license of Fusion 360 so let's go!

Bird cage,, obviously

I must commend your use of bracing profiles! Nearly all plans available and 99% of available profile kits use the inverted “T” shape and stupidly big profiles in an incredibly simple solution to the problem. The use of smaller profiles and appropriate bracing makes for a more sophisticated solution. Think ladder frame truck chassis vs Maserati bird cake.

Your bracket choices have SEVERELY compromised your rig stability 45 degree angles held in place with nothing but the friction between bracket+bolt+profile! Your joints should always but up against each other and be held in position against each other thus allowing NO wiggle room. To ensure the long term stability of your rig always use purpose built brackets at the points of most stress. This is not to say that you shouldn’t use unintended parts! On the contrary the joy of self build rigs is the unique solutions that a person comes up with!

recline is not conducive to proper posture ~ which is important when driving

The big price comes from the dual track frame rail pieces. You cut it to a 1x1 and it’s much cheaper. $70 for 1x2 rail 72” or $30 1x1 72”

I have all the tools in my garage to build one however every place I find that sells 80/20 in the US is so expensive I am better off just buying a pre built.

I know just how expensive 80/20 extrusion is. How and where did you buy that much of the stuff?

Nice video

Shaun,
I really like what you did here, but I'm still wanting to build a Ricmotec RS-1, WITH added adjustability. I believe there may be a way to design more into the RS-1 design, so that's my preference. I also am thinking about a hybrid version where I incorporate some aluminum extrusion into the RS-1 design, thereby keeping the very pleasing aesthetics of the RS-1 while at the same time having more adjustability. I'd like to go with 3 large monitors, at least 46" each. I was wondering what size monitors you used?
I started Sim Racing just about 10 years ago, and due to many factors just had to put it on the back burner, but now I'm looking to once again move forward. My G27 is ready and raring to go, and so am I. Thanks for all you've done to help me get ed-u-ma-cated! LOL!

Nice job Shaun, keep up the great You Tubes

nice video man but i have a question dose 20/40 or 20/20 work or it will not support the weight

Nice seeing you make a new rig. Always enjoy these types of videos for ideas.

Great video. Covers everything you need to know.

God bless America.. to build this same rig where i live buying the supplies locally would cost me literally 10x what it costs you, it would end up being twice as expensive as the most expensive pre-built sim rig from trakracer

Shaun, what's the weight difference between your wood DIY and this 80/20 rig?

Where's Jess?

The pricing you got for the extrusion was for 1010. Generally the prebuilts are using 40 (40mm) series tubing or 15 series (1.5")

I'm actually building a sim rig, I'm using wooden roofing trusses, I am kind of "copying" the design of the Simetik K line. and add a flat thick metal bar for lateral reinforcement. for each side
I have a wheel mount bought from Trak Racer. It's simple and solid

This rig is flimsy and way to weak just buy simlabs best price and value

cheers

I built one trying to beat the price of a simlabs p1 and think i ended up spending about 600 bucks, but i did get a seperate triple monitor stand built too at that 600 dollar price😎

Standard profile and standard t-nuts with the spring loaded ball can be inserted (rolled) into any point of the slot after you've built a rig.

No idea what these nuts are but they're not conducive to building and modifying a rig as you go.