6013 Stick Welding Problem Fixed

Do u know what i mean when i say this- When im practicing running beads, it looks like i just run a good bead thru the helmet lens, but then i open the hood and im like, where the hell did the bead go?! Its like i made no bead at all, just a flat burn mark all the way across...haa

Hi, I'm using the cheap Chinese welder now as ( yeswelder.) I used E6013 rod from home Depot, made by Lincoln. Running on 110 DC current, 90-140 Amp, but for some reason it keeps sticking to the metal and won't weld at All. And I forgot, I was using steel material to weld. Any solution would help. Thanks

Don’t use that rod . The work ok on ac . Terrible arc low on DC.

Whats not said in this video is what a 6013 stick actually does or cant do.

What a 6013 stick can do is hold a tensile strength of over 60k psi of the metal. IE the "60" in the number while the 13 represents clean metal or sheet metal. The point is, Welding has parameters built into how it operates. Understanding the code of welding helps, but understanding why the code is the way it is helps that much more! In the end the welding rod itself will instruct you what can be done on what material.. if you are willing to learn the welding code.

In the end each welding rod tells the welder what it is capable of, on a type of metal and/or environment.. IE undersea welding..

tagalugin mo nga hindi ko maintindihan.

i bought a harbor freight chicago stick welder ever sinse im been using it i cant get 6011 rods weld unless amperage is way high

Hi Tim,

The first time I learned to weld was when I was 7 years old, and over the last year, I became burnt out from 25+ years of software engineering, and one of my friends told me - "Dave, have you tried working with your hands again?"

Your channel has helped me so much, and I thank you for it! You keep up the good work! This. Is. Awesome.

Oh - I'm starting an official welding course next year ;-)

HUGE HELP! I'm a beginner and I've been running into this more than anything else. Can't wait to try what you showed here. Thanks!

Wow, amazing lesson. Thank you, much appreciated!

Your videos are really awesome.
There are so many variables that can have a profound effect on making a good solid weld from day to day or even throughout the day or night. HOWEVER, this usually involves temprature and moisture, in my experience.
I spent 5 years welding where every weld and weld repair was UT'd or Mag. Part.tested with the outcome also noted in your record as a passed or failed weld. I moved from the Midwest (Hot and Humid) to a High Desert environment which is very Hot with very low humidity) during the day.
I transferred to nightshift and on one night, I had a small 6" repair to make on 3/8" mild steel at a depth of 3mm. on a weldment that was stored outside after it failed Ultra Sound.
I had brought the section inside the plant and guickly gound the slag inclusion and poracity out. As i started to fill in the gash, the supervisor came by and told me to slowly preheat the steel up a little bit in that area, if i valued my record. When i asked him WHY it was necessary. He stated because of " moisture in the metal from condensation, even though it's dry to the touch and eyes, it's " wet ". It will also prevent cracking and warping from thermal shock so don't chance it". I fired up the belch fire torch and saw the moisture being driven out almost right away. The canyon i ground out filled up so nice, that i didn't have to butter up the weld and it passed. From that time to this day i preheat everything from 1/4" on up. Even if the outside humidity is only 20% at 70 degrees. Just another one of if those little details that can make a difference.

nice video sir. i would like to ask. during 3g welding, the upper beads (closer to the top/end of the plate) seem to have more thickness than the lower ones. why is that, whats the solution. thank you

6013 is not for beginners then?that shjtty rod 😡

Coming from Mig/TIG, I struggle with this issue the most. It’s often frustrating and heartbreaking. Thanks for the insights, I’ll give it a shot.

Something I wish I knew 30 years ago, running 6013 HOT realy helps, if ya not running high in the amp range go to a smaller rod and run that hot.
The other thing is we where steered toward 3.2 mm ( 1/8") rods as the go to, but for a lot of work they where too heavy and we where running too low in the amp range.
.
combine this with looking thru fixed shade, manual lenses that where too dark for the work, i'm not surprised we struggled

The reason why most pro welders don't use 6013 is because it has too much slag, 6010 or 6011 is much better

It took half the video to mention rod angle

Deppending of the welding position depends ur amps, on a flat i run 85 amps with a bit of a whip

Trying to do some plug welds with Stick and I keep getting undercut/slag stuck in the plug. It’s a real pain where I don’t think rod angle will help. Anyone able to offer any advice?

Love the videos Tim, very informative and well put together.

El problema es el principio del cordón y el espejo de soldadura en el principio del cordón una vez que ves el baño de soldadura - (el espejo) - y luego comenzar a iniciar el cordón.

His flux stained his way pattern so when it welds the flux in surface are not successfully fully weld the materials.
The heigths of stick is not appropriate, it angle and the explosionnof electordes will shattered 180°×180° and to stop dirtying the way pattern to weld is to put the stick to the very corner of angle bar to reduce the range of flux explosion.. tha wall of angle bar will be the sheild to the other way so the flux will only goes to the top of melted stick rod.

Flux explosion is like a leaf blower. The angle for flux blowing is important.... the explosion of electordes flux is like a shockwave which air blows has similar effects , and we can see it on fire blows.

Angle of stick rod is sometimes not appropriate.. especialy using stainless rods. And in slow moving weld so the weld is bulker than fast moving weld which give a thin results.
The bulky melted rod has a obstruction potential.. so imagine a blows from 45° is facing a half asphere , lets sag the melted rod is having a form of inflated half sphere shapes. And due its stainless toughness the melted metal are thicky. And give a 10° obstruction. So if the stroke is 10°... the blows from flux explosion will shatered to 180°×180°. Just like a leaf blower facing downard and not at 45° so the flux stain will goes in back areas. Staining the path pattern.
So sometimes. So to speak.. sometimes 45° is not enough for stainless rods. 55° was just the normal angles

Thanks for making this video. When searching for beginners videos on welding this one really is the one that tells you what you need to know to start making good welds with 6013 and really that is all you need to know.

We use metric so its 2.5mm 3mm 4mm etc, 2.5's if not having the amps down and rushing will give you the issues you are talking about, but the 3mm and 4mm at 90 amps should give you a nice run, when welding 3mm thick steel, any thicker and I would go as high as 110- 120 amps. Only use hydrogen high/lows for steel.

What diameter rod of your elecrrode? Thick steel more than 5 mm t least 6 or 8 mm the optimum amperage to have welding result not too brittle were radius x 100 amps to get them well done

you have taught me so much in five videos... CHEERS MANNN!! YOUR FUCKING AWESOME!!💥🕉️

Shit rods are shit rods

I've been having the same issues at times. These are good tips. I'm only using 2.5mm think Square tubing. I have some angle bar & flat bar 40x40mm of the same thickness to practice with. It's all I have atm bcos funds are low. I cannt afford to be buying any thicker mterials right now so somebody told me 40-45A with 1.6/2.0 E6013 rods was good enough. Is that ok or should I actually try to go up to maybe 50-55A?? Any helpful advice would be very much appreciated guys.. Thanks to anybody who can give me any helpful tips here.

Numb question: would 6013 work well on 1/8 inch tubing? Or would 7018 be better?

Metal is cold you can warm up with torch it will help with weld

Good video brother

I can tell by the ripples in the weld that the weld speed most of the time is to fast and the electrode angle is to steep

That's so helpful mate! Thanks ❤

hi buddy how do take online classes with you?

Will a extension lead drop amps

I have had similar issues when I weld 6013. I've done a decent amount of welding in a class room setting to figure out what welding mistakes I am making at home.

When I work with 6013 try to hold it start of the world for about 1 or 2 seconds then start running a beed. I got a hint from another channel a while back they suggested maybe putting you travel angle a little farther forward to help push the slag away from the weld puddle with 6013 and it seem to help a lot what I was doing. Now I was mainly practicing at home keep up on welding. But good video I like it I love your channel

I am going to try some 7018 electrodes to see if it helps this problem.

Hi 👋 how long does it take for you to finish your ear to ear as for me it took me 3 day s thank u , my work absolutely changed after watching your videos ❤

Hi what is the steep angle? I’m struggling with travel speed too?

So I was reading somewhere that on the 6011 Rods you need to dip them in water for them to run better. Is that correct?

Vidio anda sangat berguna buat tukang las di mana pun berdua...

Need fractice.. current problem.,..

So, 7013 is a better choice, right?

Thanks

Great advice and video. Wish I knew this years ago; it would have helped eliminate a lot of inconsistently I have been experiencing exclusively when running slow on 6013 fillet welds!

Moisture is the number 1 enemy of the coated electrodes , unlike cellulosic electrodes .

Well explained, keep up the good work!

Can I run 7018 with my 220 AC unit? Aka tombstone welder. I'm getting similar results with 6011 and 6011E. I can use 6013 but my work looks like it puked all over the welding area. I normally run at 90 to 105 amps but last job I moved to 120 amps with better results. No schooling in welding, just bench work education. What am I missing? Thanks

um your placement of your position is wrong. you what your material to flow up the vertical plate and not down it. from 2-3 mm away from your vertical plate start and get your material to flow up to the vertical plat like riding hopes on a sand dune. doing so will prevent the slag going under the weld as it will flow away and not to the stick or around it. starting with your electrode on the vertical plate and letting your weld flow down can and will double back on it self entering the weld again and so holes. you can see his placement is wrong just with all the sparks on the side of the weld. the big droplets!. no smooth run off more like smash off!! welding stick is like controlling a stream of water from a pipe you what it to flow out-up-around and down in the 90 decrees corner. so in short X axes 2-3mm away let the material flow up the Y axes and watch the it turns anti clock to your movement

cool !!

It’s easy to say when the metal 3-4mm thick, what about when it’s only 2 and you don’t want to melt holes in the metal

This is the most instructive video about this matter (which is my most common deamon) I`ve seen. And the duration of 5 minutes is perfect