Creality Ender-3: Silent Mainboard Installation Guide - Make your Ender Silent!

Mine refused to autohome ,it wouldn't read the card,they are sending me a new mother board....

Thanks for your help ! I followed through your video and changed my own board to a silent one, and your video was very helpful (expecially with the fan1 fan2 bit). Thanks again !

Thanks for this video. Can’t believe how quiet my printer is now.

Mine came with the 4.2.2 board with the crap chip and zero firmware. Also, the connectors were hot glued to ports so... Screw me.

Every connector on the board of mine is hot glued in, kill me

I thought you didn’t have to worry about polarity as to which red wire goes into which green slot of the hot end and bed heater?

Hello!! Thank you for this amazing video. I have a question, after doing this and setting new calibration is there an option to do it manually as before or I must buy the level component for this? Thank you!!!

do you have a spare board by chance

Hey I bought a silent motherboard for my ender 3 and now auto home does not work, It stay in place and eventually just crashes does any know how to fix it

What should the Voltage be set to?

You might want to mark the Bed thermal and the nozzle thermal wires, their right next to each other and the same white colors.

What have I missed? ender 3 pro, motherboard v4.2.7 everything looks good. But I only get a blank blue screen on the control panel. The one fan does run as yours. Can you take a guess what I have missed. Amazon ad says it is for my printer, firmware?

They have it labeled at the bottom of the motherboard

Hey so they hot bed and other one the two red ones I didn’t label them and I don’t know if they are backwards what do I do?

Fyi the green terminals are actually connectors you don't have to remove the cables you can just swap it over. Not a bad idea to remove them though to check tightness. Great tutorial

Two reds is a nozzle heater , and second moment, does thermistor have polarity?

my control panel wire does not want to come out how do i get it out

Commenting in case this helps others who found this video and were confused by some of the conflicting comments.

If you have a multimeter, use the continuity test setting (represented by a triangle with a line through it, and a little sound signal). Test the pins on your stepper motor, by holding leads to the pins individually. The multimeter will sound on the two pins that belong to one coil.

For my origial pin set up: 1-2-3-4
1&2 and 3&4 were a pair, so Coil A = 1&2 and Coil B = 3&4. To reverse the direction you need to swap coil A with coil B
I ended up flipping the pins to a 4-3-2-1 configuration (stepper motor side) and solved the issue. This was on an Ender 5 for a silent board upgrade.

TLDR:
Test your stepper motor to figure which pins go to which coil and swap Coil A pins with Coil B

just did this and its broke

Hey frank! Thanks for the tutorial, helped me lots

I have put this board in and the temp won't stop at the set temp what wire did i mess up?

for some reason, when i “auto home” it goes like 10 millimeters up and i dont know how to make it touch the bed when i auto home

But does it help with the lights flickering in the house?

my printer is in my room so this helped alot. i also replaced the fans with quiet ones

Mine just beeps. I did install the v2 screen. I'm going to try the regular screen.

Thanks for the great tutorial, just swapped mine and cant believe how quiet it is either!

Not sure if you'll see this but any help would be appreciated. I've got an ender 3 max and after making a big print the bed is showing a negative temperature and makes a loud continuous beep. I can still heat my extruder but I think I might have a burned out bed thermistor. Any other suggestions would be helpful.

Hey Frank I did that same upgrade and I got the CR touch and had to flash the mother board for the CR tocuh and know won’t work and makes a loud beeping sound?

They hot glued all the wires in mine…

I am facing the following issues after proper connection:
1. The fan is not running (it just twists for a fraction of a second and then remains inoperative)
2. The LCD simply turns ON (it is not showing any information, it is completely blank)

Kindly let me know if it is a voltage issue (12v/24v). I am not sure about my Ender 3 whether it is 12v or 24v but yes 24v has been written on the fan of the motherboard.
Furthermore, this control board can't be replaced with the 8 bit v1.1.4 board 😭

you are my favorite 3D printer channel. thank you for being so straight to the point and giving the information we need. your the best!!

must i chnager the motherboard or put dampner ?

FYI that board does have a bootloader so any software upgrades can be done via sd card, flashing has gone forever:)

Should I get a ground bracelet while replacing the board?

Just purchased the silent board for my Ender 3 Pro. Guess I’m gonna have to rename Whistler.

does this work with the ender 3 pro?

How does the main board make it quieter exactly ?

Do you have to redo your E-steps after you put in a new board?

when i saw it had a fuse, that is a HUGE upgrade.... i may be stupid af but doesn't a fuse stop it from shorting out cause of my idiocy? >.>

Thank god for upgradable boards....ill be getting the SKR mini e3 v2 since its just as quiet but i used this to see the sound difference. i have my Ender 3 in the laundry room so its out of the way and not so loud. already have Noctua fans on the way too since theyve been in my gaming pcs for years

Hey sir have you tried a 12v fan it is quite than the 24v fan which in the Ender 3

Thank you for the tutorial! I just got a mute mainboard for my Ender 3 Pro. Man what a night a day difference for the noise.

I need this

This video was so helpful but now that I change the board, I get fluctuations in the hotend temperature