Adapting Sewing Patterns for a Shorter Body: Petite Step-by-Step Tutorial

Thank you so much for your tips. I never thought I was petite as I am 178cm tall. But I found out that my upper Body is too short in patterns all the time. So I have to usually shorten patterns in the upper Body and lengthen the pants.

This video is a little old but I still wanted to thank you for posting it - I'm 154cm, and have fuller hips, so I've always struggled when PURCHASING clothes that were designed for petites (as they tend to ignore fuller hips!), and also struggled with SEWING clothes for myself (I'm very much a beginner sewist and just the concept of altering an existing pattern was a bit overwhelming to me, but without making any alterations, none of the stuff I was making would fit right at all!)... I'd get frustrated with shopping for clothes, then I'd try to sew - I'd get frustrated with the sewing, and try to shop for clothes again - repeat, repeat, repeat.
I think your video has actually shown me, "yes, it IS a little bit more complex, so it's no wonder that shops can't get the fit right, you're not crazy!" - and that also maybe I should just try drafting from scratch.

I have so much trouble with a fold always appearing on my back. It seems my torso is shorter in the back than in the front. It’s so difficult because you can’t see very well the alterations you need to do when it’s in the back, and also how do you align it when you don’t adjust the front bodice pieces?

I’m 5’0” tall and weigh 100 lbs. It’s hard to find information on adjusting for not only short, but also very small-boned people.

I think it’s about understand where on your body you’re shorter than the “average” or pattern draft. I often shorten between shoulder and bust point: it raises the underarm into the right spot on me (huge comfort improvement) but rarely do I need to shorten between bust point and waist. I also shorten a lot between waist and crotch and a bit between crotch and knee.

The 1st time I made a pencil skirt with length removed above the crotch and below the crotch I was amazed at how comfortable it was to wear: the skirt didn’t bunch up around waist to get the widest part of the skirt at my hip/butt. All up I think it was 6cm removed in length for that skirt 😮 and then I made it 4 times 😂

That was a great video..lots of great tips..i am learning to fit..my friend is petite and i want to fit her patterns for her but it was the first time i have encountered adjustments for petite..i am learning🙃..i have to shorten alot of areas for her..thankyou for the video♡

Why when I type in "patterns for TALL women" do I get this 😭

I would love to see a video on how you take a tuck across front, but not on back bodice. It hit me this weekend, that that is what I need to give me a much better fit. I do understand how that would be done on sleeve, but I can't wrap my head around how it would affect stripe or plaid matching. Thanks so much!

I need to fold out 5 cm between my bust and waist and 10 cm between the waist and hip at the least. I have never explored the high bust before because of the sleeve alteration. thank you ver much for this informative presentation.

Johanna. Great video. I would love to see the technique for dealing with shortening the shoulder to bust apex measurement and then dealing with the resulting change to the arm opening and any FBA that has to be done. Do you have a video, blog, or book that deals with this technique. Many thanks.

(casually cries in 4'11) One of the patterns I recently got expects my neck-to-waist measurement to be about five inches longer than I have. I've also gotta figure out how to get more fabric around mah knockers, cuz I guess women in the 80s just... didn't have any??? Gah, I have two different measurements going to two different extremes.

Great video . I am petite too . Thank you .

I am 4”10 hourglass. Thanks for the tips

I am trying to sew for my dil and she is 4'9"( I am 6' so NOT the right way for me to alter!~) This was very informative. She also has a 44 bust but a very petite frame. I truly think I need a pattern drafting class to get her to a good fit but I am still plugging away at it. I have been very successful in altering her jean jacket (store bought) so her sleeves are the right length. But she still is unable to close it. A project I am considering only after I have successfully fitted a shirt to her body. Definitely she will need a full bust adjustment. But I digress. thanks for this info.

So helpful! Thank you

Thank you so much for acknowledging that being petite is more than just hemming! I am also short through shoulder to bust. It is so hard to find upper clothing items!

Great video and so timely! I am trying to make a blouse and am encountering the same fitting issues. Thank you for confirming my thoughts on what I need to do. Love your channel!

This is a perfect explanation of all my fitting problems. Pattern companies just don’t address this issue. Thank you very much.

Great video with lots of helpful advice. Now I know why regular pattern necklines were way too sexy. I needed to shorten the pattern above the bust as well. Keep up the good work.

I have to do many of these alterations. I am 5ft 2in. And also have sway back. Fitting can be a bit tricky. However it is worth it as many clothing items in the stores do not fit me well and will need fixing anyway.

Thank you so much for this video. I am 5 foot 2 and fitting for commercial patterns is giving me headaches.

Thank you so much, I am 4' 7' . In major stores when I shop, I can wear children's sizes, junior sizes and petites. I though sewing my own clothing would make it easier. 😯 Then came the fitting issues with patterns!!! I also found out they don't make petite patterns!!!! 😐 I wish I could take a class for fitting petites!❤

Thank you so much, I am 4' 7' . In major stores when I shop, I can wear children's sizes, junior sizes and petites. I though sewing my own clothing would make it easier. 😯 Then came the fitting issues with patterns!!! I also found out they don't make petite patterns!!!! 😐 I wish I could take a class for fitting petites!❤

Enjoyable and informative video as usual. I am 5'2" so have fitting problems. The biggest game changers for me are choosing a smaller size and doing a full bust adjustment. I don't feel that I have a full bust but in comparison to my upper chest it is. The other is doing a narrow shoulder adjustment, this has made my fit so much better. Thank you for your videos.

This is so good. Thank you!!!

Oh I'm the same! My bust is way higher than most people. I'm short waisted too. I'm also 5 ft 3 in. Fortunately, my legs are relatively long as are my arms....

Such good tips!! I'm just under 5' and so far have only really shortened the lower body of things but I'm heading to my latest pattern to put a little fold in the boob area! I have always seen you and thought you were a tall person lol x

Very enlightening, too

Hello, fellow petite. "The struggle is real", ha-ha. I am 5 feet 1 inch and shrinking!

Proportion is definitely key for good looking garments. It's also something that takes so much time to learn. I'm sure this will be an eye opener for some beginning sewists. Great information.

Great advice. And you're right petite people have smaller bones.

Very useful blog. I’m 5 foot 2 1/2 so similar to you and quite short waisted too. Thanks!

Great tips Johanna, at 4'10" they are all relevant to me, as you can imagine . Thank you so much for your clear instructions,yet again.

great video! thank you!! Torso is my big problem. i'm 2" shorter than you. :-)

OMG...once again, you are right on target as to your choice of subject matter...I sew for both myself & my sister and we are both in our 70's now & started out as 5'2" & 5'8" respectively, which was short to begin with...but both have shrunk even more to 5' & 5'5" respectively.....luckily, I had extensive pattern drafting training at the Fashion Institute & constantly refer to one of the books I used in school...I find, as I said before, that whenever I use a new pattern I always make a muslin first...seems like a lot of work, but in the long run it really isn't...saves a lot of heartache...never want to ruin the lovely fabric purchased for a project, and the corrected muslin can be used over & over again for future makes...........

Great tips Johanna! You are so inspiring and help us stay on track!

awesome tips ,that's why i like to draft my own patterns 💞😘

i cant believe it!! no way!! I always thought you look about 5 ft 9 !! that just proves one thing, you know how to dress tall!! thanks for this i am 5 ft 3 too!

I am the same height, I have to shorten the waist line 1 inch, but I actually have to lower the bust darts about an inch. I have to do this 90% of the time and shorten the sleeves one inch. Now that I know this, I realized why I look so weird in waist defining dresses. Only Aline dresses for me.

We are the same height! And my daughter, too. This will be helpful for sewing for both of us.

I am petite in the same areas that you mentioned. However, I am muscular and hips & bust are 10 inches larger than my waist. Very difficult to sew for myself.

I am 5' 6" and a bit/169cm with 24"/61cm long arms and 31"/79cm inseam and a very long back crotch, by no means short but my upper body between shoulder and bust is super short and my arms are extremely skinhy. My upper body length btw shoulder and bust is not represented in the smallest size on most patterns, including all of the big 4. I need to reduce front and back armscye through the bodice, normally the back more than the front, reduce the sleeve cap height, adjust the facings and collar accordingly, reduce the neck circumference and sleeve width especially at the wrist. I cannot be bothered with princess seams because there would be far too many adjusments. It took me a long time to figure this out because patterns rarely ever have shorten lines through the armscye and this area is not as big a focus as many others in fitting books and web posts. Thank you for sharing.

Johanna, you've provided excellent tips for making pattern alterations that apply to everyone. Whilst I'm not petite, I do have to take the proportions of the garment into consideration and make adjustments accordingly. I usually always change button placement, width of cuffs, etc. Having accurate measurements, both of one's body and the pattern pieces, as well as referring to pattern company websites and other information the pattern provides help with obtaining a better fitting garment. Thanks for sharing this useful info!

With high of 158 cm I came to the same conclusions - shortening bodice above bust line is a necessity. Great video!

Great information, thank you so much.