Drop Bar Conversion using Internet Parts is OK, but not without its problems. Giant Boulder Gravel

This bike is too ugly to me, That stem is so hideous. Well done for sticking with it. Triple rings are an abomination

Are you sure the rear v brake mod was fitted correct ( as compared to the front one)
The front was fitted around the outer large rout whilst the rear looked like you missed the groove of the large spool rout
( I could be wrong 😀)

I had same problem changing from flat to drop bar. The road shifter has shorter pull compared to the thumb one using the old front derailleur. One way to solve is to change fd to a road type not mountain or hydrid but then you need to consider the chainline. It might work with the old fd if you only have 2 chainrings but will rough with 3. It took me a while to realize that with quite a few research.

Thanks!

I love the fenders and tri flow I I use that on my bikes good stuff

The background music is really annoying. ☹👎

A real pity I cant watch your video, because it is full of the most annoying idiots with instmuents playing that fecken noise. I HATE JAZZ. Retards without rhythm, and you by association. Better luck next time cutting off your audience because of your lack of taste in quality music.

I would have just put on Cantilevers. way cheaper than whatever that conversion part was.

3x7 never have rub issues for me it's literally one gear less than all the others and thus 7mm skinnier... there's something wrong... user error... time for a lesson on chain line

my brodie bolt came with the lever on the V setting but has the tiny calipers you'd have on a single speed.. switched the lever pull and it's golden now

Nice brake dialing 👌 that definitely feels good ha. Whenever Im working on the front derailleur and I get the chain rub but things are still working, I take some pliers and bend it away to give it some more room I just hate that rub in tall gear when your mashing

Im a big ol jerk who's also been on a mtb to drop bar gravel kick. I just ordered a pair of those brake adapters you used! That's a great tip. Im thinking of doing a 1x conversion in the near future because i was having some similar issues with my AliExpress shifters (thats probably where he got those from)
For what i paid for my shifters, im happy with the purchase. Im probably going to work on slack adjustment and dialing in the screws when i put the beake adapters on, because I can only get like 4 or 5 of my gears, and i think its a 9 speed (i coujd be wrong on that, but i know its not a 4 or 5 speed)

The worst I ever got chewed out as a mechanic was after setting up a triple haha, they treated me like a flat fixer for a month after

I would have made it into a 1X7. No front derailleur. Problem solved.

They are called a travel agent

We bought an old Giant Boulder for my son to ride last summer at a cost of $75. It's absolutely fine, except for the paint having seen better days. I want to make it a repaint project we can do, but then I'd also like to swap out all of the drivetrain for 1x instead of the triple-front rings with front mech. Since it's Shimano already, can I slap Deore 11 on the stock freehub for an easy conversion to 1x, or am I opening a can of worms that's more trouble than its worth?

that redshift stuff is lovely, give it a try

I made myself one like this from an ancient Trek 8000. Tektro drop-bar brake levers made to pull cable for V-brakes + Microshift 8 speed barcons (same spacing as 7) work great. My "SuperGravelMonster" has a RockShox Indy fork which still works great even after all these years. My only complaint is the thing's a little long across the top reach-wise...if I run a stem any shorter I risk some dicey steering, so I live with it...but the $couple-hundred I spent on it saved me a lot of money I would have spent on a "real" gravel bike otherwise.

The shifters are good, it’s that style brake that is bad.

Isn't this one of the cases where you just use "mini" v-brakes, the kind that went on cyclocross bikes after the cantilever era ended but before the disc era began? Much better than adapting MTB standard-pull v-brakes. Tektro makes good ones at cheap price, and for you with good money there's always MiniMotos.

It's a refreshing change to see a channel highlighting real world bikes instead of the latest high end hyper bikes.

I think the fancy noodle is what you use if you have long pull brakes and short pull levers.

What’s the difference between a regular cable and a nice cable if they’re both new?

When I changed from an Altus 3x9 front derailleur to Sora (for tire clearance), I used a bar-end shifter in friction mode. This way, I can control the exact position of the cage on all three chainrings. Some might argue I should not give up indexing, but I' like being able to finesse the shifter to make it quiet.

Fortunately, the owner didn't turn that stem 180, toward his side. He could have a horizontally flat stem, with a nice, straight handlebar, but he moved it like a crane up, then added the drop bars, ending at the very same altitude, he initially started from. Awkward, heavier not to mention ugly.

Flat-bar (MTB) shifters/derailleurs use greater cable pull for the front derailleur. Those drop-bar shifters pull a shorter-than-required amount of cable for this derailleur to work properly.

I have an older giamt boulder 510 great bike! Giant is such underrated quality for the money

Did the rear brake wire go around the big pulley of the problem fixer? Seems the setup on the back is different than the front.

The problem was not the MicroNew road shifters which are a very good copy of the comparable MicroShift, but the cheap top pull Shimano MTB front derailleur which has a different cable pull ratio as you have discovered. To increase to the required pull at the derailleur, you need to attach the derailleur cable closer to the pivot - which is what the original builder and eventually yourself did.

Redshift is an excellent brand in general, and for seatposts and stems in particular.

Surprised to see he has a 70+ dollar stem and 100+ dollar seat post, then use Micronew and Wake. Possibly he is saving up for better parts later on? The front derailleur issue is why I am now using 1x setup. Almost always a rubbing issue with SIS. Friction would be best for micro adjustments. Also I am surprised you do not know the Wake and Mocronew brands. Especially since you shop Amazon for parts. To not know about the Redshift stem and seatpost? Living under a rock I see.... :-) Like you said It makes for a good video.........

MOM! r/xbiking is leaking again!

Great content for us DIY'ers! Lot's of little tips. I recently installed a MicroShift derailieur and I routed the shift cable to the side of the anchor bolt offering the least resistance of friction based on angle. The shifting was not quite perfect so I took it to those who bail me out...the LBS. They noted that the cable is to be routed on the side of the bolt with the greatest angle and seemingly more cable friction. The lesson is that logic does not always apply.

Its the Sarcasm x Jazz for me. Love this channel

I wonder why microshift shifter and not sensah?
That line on the shifters looks that old and outdated.
And sensah is not expensive and look like todays shimano and top quality

Good used components such as early 1990 Shimano DX, LX or XT beat cheap new stuff any time. Go 9x, combine with Dura Ace Barends. There you go.

Those are mtb derailleurs with road spec shifters, the front is incompatible.

Roadbike shifter vs mtb fd have different cable pulls which is why u are having issues tuning the shifting...

Knocking on the stem and seatpost brands that "you've never heard of..." You have a QBP account, right? Plug Redshift Sports into the search.

Too many Ads watching this video.

OOO, Redshift Suspension post. Customer splurged on that one. $200+ new. But boy, is that a good quality seatpost. Ope, and I missed the Redshift stem, too. Definitely splurged. I'd love a set of both those.

As someone who has done the same concept build almost 10 years ago, this video's got it all: spongy cantis, wobbly freewheel (never affected my shifting), the incompatible front derailleur pull ratios, and the oh-so-crippling "do I really want to dump more money into this to make it right???" feeling. In my use case, i used the limit screw to dummy out the granny gear and it worked well enough for my commuting purposes until I restored it back to original and donated it to Bikes not Bombs. Honestly, kind of miss it because of it's unique ride feel, but wouldn't do it again.

I salute your patience

They are called Travel Agents and they are great.
But when you feed the cable in, you should try to make so that when the pulley are turned by the action the brake lever, the cable has plenty of room to make the pulley itself turn and not get stuck. It's even difficult to explain, but basically you should feed in the cables at the correct rotation of the pulley.

Redshift is great stuff. I have the stem

Your videos are relaxing to me

Friction shifter s. Only solution if like me you can not afford a Rolloff.

God damn, the trick with putting the chain in the second cog before tightening the shift cable sounds great. I'll definetely try that next time!

If the chain starts rubbing on the front derailleur, that's an audible reminder that you are cross-chaining! :)
Brakes: I wonder if the original bike had cantilever brakes; if so, the owner could have simply left those on and no compatibility issues with the levers.

Hi all my armchair 2 cents
Thanks for video and content. Love the problem solver solution. I think shorty v brakes arms would work also. On fd I wonder if it was a chain ring capacity issue. I think mtb and road tripples have a different chain ring gap.
Cheers

Hello bikefarmer, What kind of lube do you use in the cables? I mean the one you fill in with the long needled one. Thanks and regards