Easy z-offset adjustment for your 3D printer.

Do you have any idea why my Ender 3 Neo Max sounds like a 747 taking off as soon as it's turned on? I'm talking before it has printed anything, before the fans would need to be going full blast? It's a brand new printer with not 5 hours of printing..I did notice it was set for Europe voltage out of the box which I found odd (220V vs 120). It's not affecting the print but it sure is loud! Thanks

Thanks, I've had a new Ender 3 Neo Max for months and my son and I couldn't print anything because we couldn't get the height properly dialed in, it was either too low and scraped the bed (eesh) or too high and shot the filament everywhere, your tutorial allowed us to find the ideal height using Z-offset and then setting it as the default, we're printing something perfectly as we speak!

I have a problem, my printer is an Artillery sidewinder x2 and I couldn't find the option Z offset. I don't know if I am doing something wrong. (Sorry for my English)

Tyvm for being so calm and taking your time showing all of this

I'm having a problem with my 3d printer the 3d printer I have is a voxelab aquila I downloaded a cruelty software by accident on my 3D printer now the screen is just Frozen I can't download any firmware can you please help me😢

HOW DO YOU GET Z NEGITIVE ITS IMPOSSIBLE FOR ME HELP

I just got my creality ender3 and I also recently bought BL touch which is coming on the 6 of November but when it comes I don’t know what firmware to use and how to set the firmware

How do you get the probe to extend?

Thank you! Finally someone explained this simply and clearly.

How do you bring down the probe ?

do not heat bed and nozzle...

Finally the one video. Not only shows you what steps to do but also in which particular order to properly setup your printer.

This is good, but I still can't get my Z to zero. I have set it about 50 times, but it still rides about 2mm above the table...no where near it. I'm wasting a bit of fillament trying to get this to work. Is there anything else I can check? I have an automatic leveler and it is at the top limit. Before I drill new mounting holes for the sensor, I wanted to ask.

Olá, sou brasileiro e comprei a minha primeira impressora 3D há algumas semanas, uma Ender V2 NEO da Creality. O seu vídeo me ajudou a encontrar o azimute do Z-offset. O que era difícil agora ficou fácil, muito obrigado e parabéns pelo vídeo.

Ok, so what I didnt get Is at the very beginning... How did make the probe go down (so that it is extended) when you move your Z axis... Because in my Ender 3 Neo when i lower my Z axis the probe all the way up (way higher than the nozzel). So I cant do that... (In other words, the nozzel touches the bed first)

Thank you for the video. I can't wait to tram and z-offset my new CR Touch, and get printing again. Bed leveling has been such a pain... But this makes it much less painful!

how did you manually drop the probe on the CR Touch?

I can't go below zero help

Do you say what Z offset is?? Is it a number noting a difference in height between the nozzle end and the porbe end. Its it a fixed number? Is it stored or do you need to save it? Does it vary with X and Y values? How does it read vs the three figures on the home screen. Hoestly Im lost.

What I do is just set it to 0 and then use the zprobe menus to figure out where it needs to be

Thanks a lot. The best video I ever seen so far illustrating the science behind z-offset. Shouldn't you add/compensate paper thickness to the z-offset value?

Hi, good job, but when I turn off print my setup resets. What could be? Thanks

After definne your z offset you cant need do The bed leveling? The cr touch dont change config according your bed? I am ask, because my bed some times have one level in The right and other in The left. I Never see one vídeo say about running The bed leveling after The z offset configurations. Can you help me?

Good Video

Doesn't work for me. With the paper under the hotend and when I reach 0.00 I still have a few mm of gap. I tried to remove my Z-Axis limit switch but when I power on the printer I get a random Z-Axis number sitting around 360.

Ender 3
BTT SKR Mini 3 board
Silicone mounts for the bed
official BLTouch
UniTak Direct Drive Bracket

Moze Z on my ender 3 pro doesn't go to minus values. it drove me crazy.

Your video is the best for teaching z-offset calibration. thank you!!

Sorry I am completely confused. I have searched marlin firmware docs and I can’t for the life of me find a description of z offset that includes the thickness of some random piece of paper. Clearly the z offset is the distance between the bed and the nozzle. Why do so many people advise that the z offset should be set exactly one random piece of paper too high? You need to lower the nozzle to a feeler gauge of a known thickness then lower the z offset value by the thickness of the feeler gauge. The firmware wants to know where the bed is it does not want to know where the top of a random piece of paper is. The firmware wants to set the clearance between the nozzle and the bed for printing to a certain value and you simply prevent this by not accurately telling the firmware about what the distance between the nozzle and the bed is at the point the probe triggers home.

Hi very thorough video, I have what maybe a dumb question, Will a gcode without the letter work or be ignored? Example M420, will 420 produce same result? Thanks

At last i have my CR Touch working this video helped in some way but what i did was each time i adjusted the Z Offset i tried a first layer print and if it was to high i adjusted the off set lower and i did this for a while and now no clicking and its at just the right hight. The test i have done have printed out he best prints i have ever done also i did a update in the Cura setting in my Creality Ender 3 pro machine setting by adding this line after Home all axes:- M420 S1 Autolevel. The print out of 3d Benchy was the best one ever it was nice and smooth. The other thing i have to do is make sure the print head is at the bottom right hand corner before i do any prints then it does a auto home and then prints ok but after the print i have to move it back to that position. When i find out the problem i will get back to you. I forgot to say my printer is the creality ender 3 pro with the motherboard 4.2.7 and marlin 2.0.6 firmware with bltouch filament and i use glue sticks on the bed when its heated up to help with adhesive. This sounds a lot but iam thick and this works for me.

very well explained, i saw many but often steps are a bit different. this makes more sense to me now. Also learned thanks to you there is a lower increment than 0.1 when scrollling below 😲. One thing I don't understand still is when do I have to do the bed leveing command G29 ? put it in the initial G-code of my printer before the homing command G28 or directly after ? And do i then need also to store settings so this gets stored into memory as well, or just do it at every print as it is "forgotten" after power off ?

I've been printing for 10 years now. Started with printing platforms to ensure a good flat contact, that corrected for said uneven bed or simply taking the bed off and bending it straight 😅Then insolated the bed to prevent warping/even heating and also printing a thicker first layer, which worked for me perfectly for the last 6+ years. Worked so well I never cared for anything like a BL touch, then i got a printer with a 300mm x 300mm bed and started printing ABS. 1st, glass does warp 🥲 the larger it gets the much wavier it can be. Installed a BL touch and adjusted to barely touch the actual bed, use a slicer with 1st layer compensation for elephant foot, and i get amazing bed adhesion with 0.2mm first layers and nearly invisible lines on the bottom of large prints. Honestly was amazed the first time how well it worked.

Only issue is that on my Creality Sermoon D1 it applies the bed correction to every layer, which is odd and mostly doesn't effect the prints in an visible way. It does make the printer nosier though, as my printer has "silent" stepper motors for E X Y but not Z.

It's also vital to level the bed every time if you have dual z motors, activate the motors to lock them when removing parts off the bed or messing with extruder (depending if you have z on the bed or the extruder) as to not knock it out sync with each z screw. And you can always time them together with a belt. Personally i think dual z motors are a flawed approach unless they have a way of automatically leveling each print, and if you tie them together then one motor would work better so you don't have two motors fighting each other if there not exactly on the same 1.8 degree phase.

Side note, I also installed a copper sheet in-between the bed and glass, that has helped a lot with even and quick heat saturation in the bed. The bed always gets hot in the middle and bulges because the edges are cold then the parts themselves can and will act as heat sinks (especially with part cooling) and will cause temperature fluctuations, which are a big reason for prints coming off the bed. Tested it with a harry potter wand the full 310mm tall in PLA white, white because oxidized titanium is used for the color and that seams to give everyone issues. Stayed on perfectly with NO brim. This is also why new higher end printers have a separate heater for each section of the bed and a much better temperature control to prevent heat fluctuations.

For some reason I'm having trouble with setting my Z offset. i can't go negative when trying to move nozzle down on my Ender 5 pro, also tried your g code mode for oozing, still oozing as much.??

Incredible video, I recently bought an ender 3 s1 and its leveling system has disappointed me, (and I am sure that the cr-touch is fine, because I have done a precision test and very accurate results come out) every time I use the system automatic leveling and after manually applying the z-offset on the screen, even so, there are areas where it does not adhere well to the bed, but if I do a manual mesh leveling applying z-offset at each point, everything turns out perfect, without problems of adhesion, it only happens to me with automatic leveling

For some reason why I try to set my z offset it moves the head and I can’t adjust it to the number I need it to be because if I did it would smash into the bed

excellent step by step tutorial! By far one of the best videos on this topic. thank you!!

fo some reason when i adjust Z, it will not let me tune it to negative values and stops at zero, do you know how to remedy this? Thanks,

Thank you so much for a really great and informative video the
best I have seen on the subject including the cr touch. Thank you so much..

unfortunately for me, after installing the ABL, I ran into issues with Thermal runway error. Im thinking since I zip tied the ABL cable to the wire harness that has the thermistor cable, I am thinking that as the gantry moves on the X axis, it may have been tugging on the thermistor cable also because I zip tied the cables together. Upon further inspection I could see the thermistor wire is exposed where the screw holds it in place, perhaps just wear and tear.

you dont need to heat the nozzle... it doesnt effect the z-offset

I want to also setup and use OctoPi but have noticed that even if I plug a Micro USB cable in the printer since I have the newer 32bit 4.2.2 board, nothing happening - Is there a GCODE that needs to be turn on for the USB or a menu item I've missed in the screen

This video is absoletely the best in explaining the Z Offset - the only issue I have is when it does the bed leveling with the 9 points that the CR Touch performs, It will start with point 1 but is goes way over to the edge of the bed but too far so the probe in the CR Touch has nothing to touch, it will do that on the first 1 of 9 and then stop and it seems you look in the menu and Bed Leveling is then Off - any clue what is happening? I had update the firmware to the Marlin with BL Touch GD board as I was told to by Creality support.

I was also having issues with getting everything right after I installed my CR Touch. Thank you for your detailed video. Everything is printing beautifully now

For some reason my Z Home is a full 7.4mm away from the bed, and my firmware doesn't allow me to move in any increments smaller than 0.1mm.

Thanks for the M211 info about the Soft Endstops!! Really helpful info!

Probably a dumb question, I'm not able to manually lower the probe on my cr touch. I got the firmware from creality, is there another update I need to install to allow that? Using an Ender 3 Pro.

J’ai jamais été aussi content ❤ merci merci énormément !