Best Low cost Multimeter from Amazon

CE listing has nothing to do with meeting specs. It only means it meets European guidelines for retail products (packaging, environmental, labeling, minimal safety (like if it's for kids can they swallow it, or if it can kill you there are warnings that it might,) etc..) Nothing at all like UL or CSA.

Hi Eddie, the first link to Amazon goes to casing only, no DMM, worth to update the link. Besides that a great video!

pretty sure the CE stands for China Export

Yep. Very Nice for the money - 15 dollars. Give it good rating with one kinda negative. No auto shutoff, enable and disable. If you forget to turn off meter goodbye battery. Way above average build quality for low price meters. Input impedance of 1 megohms and ac non- rms frequency of 450 Hz, but again. 15 dollars. 👍 very good specs.

I wish I could finish the video ☹️ too long

I cannot agree with your assessment:
1) no auto ranging.
2) 9V battery (high expense)

I suggest the Aneng AN8008 or AN8009, way better value, high accuracy but with the same same crappy protection as the one you.
You reviewed the AN8008, so WTF??? ..seriously man.

It's now $19.66

Hi Eddie, the dot is not missing, because the range is set to 2000mV it's shut-off, it's counting mV's. Check it out with battery check, the dot will appear because of the range is set to 1.5V (i.s.o. 1500mV)

Your diagram and explanation of the digit display representing accuracy and resolution was very helpful, thank you!

I have the same meter as the Bytebros but it is made by mastech. I wonder if some 3rd party company makes them and they get rebranded. I got it about 5 years ago free when I took a correspondence course to learn electronics. It sells for 12 bucks on Amazon. It isn't my cheapest meter either. That would be the meter I got from Harbor Freight for 2 dollars. Honestly though I can't knock that meter either. It is fairly accurate. Almost every meter is going to be accurate enough for your basic hobbyist or checking voltages around the house or car. Loving all your videos. Glad I became a patreon.

Nice video, very informative! How many multimeters do you have? Are you collecting them?

I know you probably heard this before but you look like James Hetfield

I’ve noticed you have quite the multimeter collection! If you want to add one more, I’d look into the ACEGMET TRMS Multimeter! Not a lot of video reviews on it, but it seems really solid!!

*********At 27.07 the continuity test, as you told " it's like peopple start fire" that's the real way to test a multimeter for continuity. A multimeter with fast respond even in a short time touch, with no delay in continuity alarm, is what make a multimeter a good multimeter. Try yourself figure out a continuity test in some joints that are a little oxidized or check where is defective point in a long cable with a slow answer multimeter. I always buy instant response multimeters. And i can tell you thet becouse i used good multimeters too but with that function slow. And is a real pain.

The Amazon affiliate link is to the lower end model without 10a.

A man with a functioning meter is sure of what he is measuring. A man with many meters is never sure!

Did you ever return it and get the decimal you were missing?

The "under $15" Amazon 90DM120 is now $22 :( .

The 1999 versus 2000 distinction is rather arbitrary since they can simply claim that "0" is also a count, thus 1999 becomes the 2000th count. Brands should stick with the maximum number on the display (i.e. 1999) as that's the rollover limit, but consumers should simply assume that a "5000-count" meter can only display up to 4999 before dropping a digit.

People "strike" the probe tips to see how fast the response is and whether it latches or not. Sure, it's not how you will actually test for continuity, but it's still useful for comparing continuity response between meters. Fast response with latching is preferable in every application I've encountered, as you want to hear an audible beep for a short even if it's intermittent.

There is no missing decimal on your unit :) . The label clearly shows that the bottom 2 voltage ranges are in millivolts (2000mV and 200mV). The meter also displays millivolts in Diode mode. This is by design, though users are welcome to like or dislike it.

Thanks Eddie. It's amazing you can get a meter of that quality for under 15 bucks, even if it is missing a decimal.

Hi Eddie, great topic and very professional test performed.

How it comes that you have so many DMMs but no one is bench type :)

But a good test Eddie Compliments

For a moment I was thinking you put a High Voltage 1000 volts to it To make some real noise lol 😁

The recorded audio is noisy The direct audio is ok

Nou its starts very interesting 🤔

Your audio is really noisy

I think you have problem Eddie DMM Hoarder addiction 😀 lol

Hi Eddie, great tutoring. Thanks for the video.

Off Topic: I like you helicopter in the background. I started with RC trucks and tried a helicopter but the learning curve was too much. I do have a 4 prop drone that I use to video my Christmas light show, its really just a flying camera. Quick funny story: On of my 7th birthday my dad brought me a cox plane that fly with a string control. He was showing me how to use it and after a couple of times around the circle he bury the plane into the ground, only the tail section was visible. He was very apologetic and I was rolling on the ground laughing.

LOL you had me laughing with the "Sick" sound from the ByteBros continuity test. Maybe that meter should be quarantine or the other meters might have wear protection. I am really enjoying your meter info series. Keep up the great work.

Always a phenomenal presentation.. Thank you. Stay healthy!!

Love this!

Thanks, Eddie! If they fix that bug I will buy one. I am sure that it would perform much better with some nice Probe Master leads on it. The only meters that I have that has the battery load test are my VOM's.

This is a CEM multimeter that Amazon rebrands very good for the price

Not related to the meter review. Trying to update my GW Instek 2200EX. It says to update in SAFE Mode. I could not find Safe Mode in the manual. How do you get your scope in Safe ,mode?

Nice review - I guess the meters are what the meters are for a handful of bucks. I think an extra digit in the millivolt/milliamp range would be useful for electronics, particularly as they didn't seem to round very well. That missing decimal point is a problem though - this is the type of meter that someone starting out might pick up and it could take them a while to realise something is going on! I think overall though it shows you don't need to spend a lot money to get a decent meter - if I remember correctly, my first one was an Extech and was only a little more expensive albeit with a 4000 count display. Incidentally, they cheat a bit on these counts as you point out. My 4000 count display is actually 0 to 3999 and I guess your 2000 count is 0 to 1999. Because 0 is a valid reading right, especially if something isn't working.

Don't think I like your new dmm very much .

Will there also be some kind of comparison of Multimeter within the 50$ (or 80$) range?