PEWTER injection mold! Does it WORK? Is it dangerous?

Interesting vid. Thanks

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The surface finish and the curved edges are most likely due to the open back pour. If you made a 2 part mold the surface finish would be almost as nice as the silicone if the pouring tempratures were correct. The same thing happens with open sand molds and it might be even worse with aluminum becasue it has some incredible surface tension that causes it to dome up

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The birds singing in the background are so relaxing

Pewter and other low-temperature metals like Zamak can be spin cast or vacuum investment cast like what they do with jewelry. Of course, this complicates this and you need equipment to do it and it's not cheap to get started.

Please give the name of plastic you are using.

Bruh.....This is great to watch

Use smooth on . No air bubbles, ever.

What material du you use for the molde? Silicone?

Roll, roll, roll your crafs,
Gently from your mind.
Steadily, steadily, steadily, steadily
Craftin' all the time.

Just kinda popped in there.
So I popped it up here.

Calm down dude!

I wonder if adding a vibration to the table-top would help the metal release the air bubbles, or if it would produce more bubbles instead?
Your videos have inspired me to pursue creating custom belt buckles. Thank you for all of the videos of your experiments. You've really helped overcome some fears of making mistakes and being brave enough to take chances with new processes. Looking forward to the next video 🥰

Why not put the pweter into a pressure pod ?

lOVe u cRAfTmAN.. U aRE veRY kINd.

If I'm interpreting this video correctly, the impression I get is that you made a pewter mold and basically got good results but lost some of the detail because you couldn't stick your finger in to work what you poured into the crevices. My question is, if that's the case, couldn't you just cast a silicone finger to go in and do what your real finger couldn't do? I bet if you put a metal rod in the finger to keep it from being TOO flexible you could poke it right in there and do whatever you needed it to. Or am I missing something here?

would this work for lead air rifle pellets?

Best video.This is what I was searching for (subscribed)

Very interesting video, would love to know what the machines are that you’re using.

I love that you not only give interesting information, but also create an atmosphere for your videos. The pewter mold idea was a fun experiment. The birdsong and your Cajun Bob Ross vocal tones put it over the top 💖🤗

The first pour with pewter often looks bad, because the mold isn't warmed up. You should always do a couple in a row. Alternatively, if you have a small oven nearby, you might want to warm the mold up to 200+ before pouring.

Omg your voice is like butter! 😂

It may get be interesting to see Craftsman setup a small forge, melt down some aluminum and make molds of his different characters this way.

Mr. Craftsman, I work in the metal foundry and I believe I have the solution for your low(er) quality pewter casting details.
The first reason can be excessive use of baby powder. A bigger lump will cause defects in the surface finish so the best application device is an old and loved sock which your wife prohibits you from using anymore. Fill it up and shake a couple of times. It will spread a nice thin coat over your workpiece.
Secondly, if it had any moisture in it, it would release even a little bit of vapor upon contacting the molten metal and cause defects. You can see that, after pouring pewter, it was still acting 'lively', bubbling.
Lastly, the pewter started solidifying as soon it hit the aluminium box and silicone mould. They both 'stole' a lot of heat from the pewter the very instant they touched, and pewter shrank, causing rounded edges. You can avoid that by:
1. Heating up the mould in the oven, as hot as you dare, just before pouring time.
2. Over-heating the pewter metal. In the industry all the metals are heated above their actual melting point to prevent freezing when transported to their mould for the casting and during the casting process itself.
3. Pour faster- with proper personal protective equipment, faster pouring becomes safer and improves the quality of the casting.

Additionally, the feeder system, which you don't have, is vital to the the quality of the castings. They are basically mould cavities of calculated volume above or to the side of the casting, which will also fill up with metal and remain liquid for the longest period of time. They are the last parts of the casting to solidify, thus suffering the shrinkage cavitation...which doesn't matter because they get cut off.

You could make your own by simply making the halves taller (thicker), and subsequently cutting away the excess shrunk metal.

Cheers from a fan!

Another great video!

I use to watch your videos alot and now ima mold setter at a plastic injection department at my factory. Now I'm even more intrigued! We work eith polycarbonate, polypropylene, Valox, nylon, acrylic, and several other materials

I love the videos, they are a big help to me at DrinkiD

I love the short shop videos. Especially ones that show and explain why we should or should not do something.

Don’t feel like you’re cheating when doing these shop logs. All of the videos you produce end up being informative and enjoyable to watch, no matter what format they’re in or topic they cover. 🙏

Did you make the CNC machine?

I need some advice? could it be possible to make a mold out of silicone for lead. Lead has a melting point of 327 degrees I think.
Love your content its therapeutic entertaining and educational !

from a metalurgic point of view you need a ,etal with low surface tension to get better detail and cast aluminium could be used for that but you would need a fiecast form :P
on the other hand zink aloys like zamak are only around 50 degree celsius higher with theyre melting point than lead (~380*c) have very low surface tension and castings end up more detailed and smoother (at least in die casts) if you make a mold with feeder and vent you could probably push the metal in with a stick right before it solidyfi like i do with hard lead aloys for my trains increasing internal pressure and redusing shrinkage in the process

As I said on the last injection mold video, even though it doesn't apply to me, and I may not use this info, I still enjoy watching it just because. It's still something cool to learn, and may be applicable someday in the future. Keep on steady craftin.

Crafsman, love the channel, love everything you do so keep it up. As I go through older videos, it seems like you have 100 videos showing different ways to make molds using different methods, different mold material, different casting material, etc. Any chance you could do a video some time comparing all the different methods you like to use and why? Love the channel my man

Get yourself some woods metal or rose metal alloys, they melt Way lower temps and should do just as well for quick molds. Also very useful for tightly bending narrow gauge piping when injected from the bottom of the pipe.

I love your content! I have always been so interested in mold making and art figures, but it always seemed out of reach. I still don't know that I will ever get around to making them myself, but I love watching the process and learning about the different materials and techniques that can be used. Thank you for the entertaining and educational videos.

You, sir, are a treasure. Thank you for your videos.

This was a cool one Crafsman!!

I find pewter casting into silicone likes the mold hot either by oven pre heat or remelting the first 2 or three casts. It also likes the mold to be shaken in the first few seconds after pouring either by tapping it with a metal rod or having it on a rickety table that you can used an orbital sand on near the mold.

Hey can u show us how to cerakote 3d prints? Somebody told me there is a method to do this.

The need of making my own miniature mold got me here!

You are so good at what you're doing I have a pure joy watching you.

dude your voice is so calming . came to watch an art video and ended up relaxed .

Will it work to print a resin mold with a built in network of internal coolant circuit?
You can then circulate water to keep your resin mold at the proper temp.

I just love these videos. Another thing that happens when you use molten metals is that it shrinks considerably as it cools and solidifies, distorting the piece ever so slightly. So as you demonstrated, it works ok, but not as well or as consistent as some of the other things you’ve used.