How to Set Ignition Timing for Kohler K Series Engines

You make great videos Norman!! I have three old case tractors!! Very glad to find your website and videos!! Clear concise and easy to understand! Much appreciated!

I have a '68 John Deere 110 w/ k181 that I have been having a hard time locating the marks. Actually seeing where to look will help.

I have the Jacobson that is identical to the ford. I have tons of power with the hydrostatic transmission. I restored it around twenty years ago and it's still a beast❤❤

I adjusted my k341 to the junk pile!!!

Hi Norman I just purchased my first K241s. For some reason it idles high when idling, but as soon as I engage the deck the idle drops and doesn’t even sound like it’s cutting, but it does. I’ve never had an older mower like this before. And for some reason even when I try to lower the idle at idle it doesn’t change. Not sure what’s going on. Could the drop in power when engaging the deck have anything to do with the coil? But like I said as soon as I turn the deck off it goes back to a high idle. Can you please help? Or anyone? Thanks in advance. 🤝

👍👍

Bright color nail polish works great for marking to see

How do you change the actual timing tho? The points help create the spark but it's driven by a cam and a pushrod so where's the adjustment for that since there ain't no distributor?

Why did Kohler make such faint timing marks? Older Harley-Davidsons had a slot that you could catch with screwdriver so that you could do it in the dark if you had to.

Nice info. I'm attempting to bring a Jacobsen G14 back to life. Not sure it is going to work out.

Is this the same procedure for a K series twin?? I have a new condenser with breaker points from iSaveTractors ordered and coming soon! Thanks for helping me out, Anyways it has 2 cylinders obviously (mine being the K532 in particular) so I’m just wondering If there is a distributor in the system also?Im worried about setting the timing correctly.

Great info good content

I just got a Jacobson super chief hydro 1200 w/ original plow. Traded it for my motorized bike. It sounds good and plow works. I need a seat and it has some rattles,but hey with all original wheel weights too! I love my tank.just found this channel I like so I will contact you with any questions. I also got a non running Ford tractor with it!

Thanks for the video! My K161 was not firing with a gap of 0.020. I tried setting the gap to 0.015 and was getting intermittent spark. Wound up replacing the coil, no change. Replaced the points and condenser, still no change. I was about to scrap the engine when I ran across this video. I checked the static timing and the ignition was advanced well before the 20 degree point even at 0.015 gap. I set the points per your instructions and my K161 is running strong! I checked the point gap and it ended up at 0.013. Evidently Kohler updated their engines at some point. Mine does not have adjustable valve tappets like most I've seen. I checked the manufacture date on my Troy Bilt Horse and it was assembled in 1983.

No spark on k17. New coil,new points ,new condenser. 12 v to coil is good, it cranks but no spark

I've got a k662 in a melroe bobcat, any idea of where i can get overhaul parts for it, Thanks, Terry in Tennessee

My new favorite small engine place

Thanks Norman! Your videos are really helpful!

I got mine set but there's still no spark from were the plug wire is at like before

my john deere is like that but my cub has it threw the bearing plate .. i used a wire brush and a scotch bright pad too find the marks they were very hard to find they looked like a scratch but the letters were there .. i think if you clean with sandpaper you could loose your marks ,,i took a file and added a bit of depth to my marks on the flywheel and marked the grove with a paint stick ,,you can see it 10 feet away now ..

Norman, does the points plunger that rides on the cam move up by 20 thousanths ?

Are you lining the bottom of the s up or the line under the s

Hey Norman . I’m having issues with my k321 . It hunts and surges , backfires etc . I’ve tried the carb including new ones but I can’t tune it to run right . I have it apart now and valves are good and set correctly. This is my 3rd set of points I’m trying and using this method I set it as you describe but when I test it after tightening the points it I am getting over .026 ? When I set it to 0.020 and rotate the engine around with the continuity test it doesn’t start opening until past the s almost to the t ? Am I doing something wrong ?

Great information, great presentation too....thank you!

Good job!!

Thank you! Your videos are awesome! I love using my classic tractors.

Stormin Norman☝

Hey Norman - I have a Gravely 5665 with a K301 that suddenly just died in the middle of brush hogging. Cleaned plug, replaced condenser and points using the “easy” method and now trying this method. My multimeter would not beep with the points closed while doing this test, except it did randomly one time and worked as described in your video. And I’m not getting spark. Could something else electrical be going on??

you failed to mention it needs to be on the compression stroke since the points operate from the cam. if some one is 360 out they'll never get it.

Thank you for the great video

cool, thanks

Great info and my question is related but not covered. I have a 1450 and am recently experiencing extended run over. When I throttle down and turn the ignition off the engine continues to try and run, spit and sputter. Any idea's would be appreciated. Thank you.

Does this apply with the kholer k321as engine

If I can’t see the timing marks will I have to pull the shroud off to find them or is there a trick to find them

If the points are set incorrectly, would that cause the engine to fire early? I have 1969 Cub Cadet with a K241 engine on it. I am getting spark during the intake stroke. Should I start with changing the points, or should I check the flywheel key?


Thanks for the great video.

Just set them at 20 thousands with the flywheel on the T mark ( top dead center ) no need for all this multi meter stuff
Norman knows better , this is not how you set points gap , it's just a another more difficult way to do it .

So if I follow you correctley,,when the " S " mark is aligned with the mark on the engine ,,the points gap should be at 20 thou,, yes?

Hi love the video I just pick up a 314 allis chalmers and I cant get it to start just click please help

I just found your videos. I, my son, and grandson are trying to restore a JD 212. These videos are a wonderful aid and you do a good job explaining what your are doing. Could I ask that you find a way to illuminate the subject more. It was difficult to see some of what you were doing. That said, thank you for these. We already purchased an ignition kit from your eBay store.

Great info well presented. Thanks.

White out works great, sticks forever, silver Sharpie also.

when the S mark is lined up should my points gap be closed or open?

do you sell tractors? if you do I really like the 4041 simplicity

I have a 1974 IHCC 108 with a 12 horsepower engine in it. The tractor cranks and has a brand new spark plug in it, but it doesn't "catch" and start up. Even when I took off the air cleaner and sprayed ether inside the carb, it didn't catch even for a second. Any suggestions? Thanks man.

I tried this method with my 10hp Kohler IH Cub Cadet 105 and when checking the widest gap of the points I got close to .070". Adjusted so the points just open at the "S" mark. Does this mean someone has messed up the camshaft? Picked this up as a fixer-upper and just can't get it to run.

I have a 1970 Cub Cadet 127 with a 12hp Kohler K301. The engine usually backfires when I shut it off, and I was told by an engine guy to adjust the timing. The timing hole is on the opposite side from the one in your demonstration and has no mark to line up with. I assumed the S mark should be centered in the hole. I couldn't back the points off enough to get the meter to silence. I tried using the feeler gauge to set the points and can't get them to open enough to .020. The points are fairly new. Could the push rod be worn short? If this is the case, short of tearing the engine down and replacing the rod, would it work to epoxy a thin shim of phenolic to the plastic part of the points where the rod pushes to make up the difference?

Glad to see you start carrying Onan parts. They are getting harder and harder to find. I have several k series and 2 Onans that I'd like to keep running.

i had an early model dynamark with a teccy that had points and a ' brain box'. i cleaned and adjusted them , tractor would run for 15 mins n shut off, at that point i knew i needed new ones, but i ended up selling it before i could change them.

When the "S" mark on the flywheel is visible through the timing hole, is the piston at top dead center?