FORGED N54 BUDGET BUILT MOTOR BOTTOM END ASSEMBLY

The N54 is already forged and good to 700HP.
Just have your tuner limit boost and or timing in 1st and 2nd gear, you will never grenade the engine when you do a single turbo over 700HP

best realistic video ive ever seen

A few questions re. fitting the end caps / conrod bolts. Do you need to fully torque the bolts in order to determine the clearance using the plastiguage? I would have thought that just tightening would be enough. Also, given that you have fully torqued the bolts, should you really be re-using them for the final assembly? Great video - I'm learning a lot.

tight. Like not a good tight - but pain in the arse tight! Love it

I think it’s pretty crazy that my stock end gaps were about 0.011mm, and my new end gaps per Manley specs at 15-30psi of boost are at 0.023🤔
Now, I know it depends on the ring material and it’s respective coefficient of thermal expansion, but still it’s a bit scary that I had to double the gap😮 …I guess it does make sense, being that the stock n54 wasn’t gapped to be running high boost. I love your channel, by the way and it has provided a TON of insight😎

Hay mate nice build ! I just want your honest opinion about max speeding rods parts because in europe there are some controvential opinions about those that they are cheap low quality parts and since they are gonna be the heart of the engine who better from someone who used them .. thanks keep up !!!

So the ACL Extra clearance are the same as King bearings STD?

Tell me, are these by any chance Russian pistons from eBay?

Didn't you use the kingtec racing components ?

hm maxpeeding rods im on the fence on those. I've seen videos of people putting them in hondas and 2js but now i see you putting them going into a n54.

You're right. People act like if you don't get everything perfect weighted and perfectly bore/surfaced the motor will blow. But I've seen people swap the heads, pistons, and rods from donor motors while half-ass weighing them and the motors still running today.

Don’t be too hard on yourself, bro. Word has it through the E 90 forums you had some more pressing affairs in that particular moment of your life.

If you want, my honest opinion, the unsolicited one, you should get the hell out of that country. your Bobby’s have turned in the brown shirts.

If you start a go fund me for a moving fund I’ve got $200 with your name on it.

nacizane tavsiyem ACL yatak kullanma sonradan kaplandığı için ölçülerinde sapma oluyor mikro metre ile ölçersen görürsün, kollarım kep lerini cıkarmak ıcın pense değil kol cıvatalarını tam sokmeden geri çakmalısın daha kolay cıkar. teşekkürler emegın ıcın.

put the loose rings in the back cylinders, those run the hottest so the extra gap should help you. Thats my thinking at least

I broke a piston on my n54 due to my own negligence.
Looks like I just need to replace the pistons. I see traum are doing a 84mm 10.5:1 as well as JE. Is that compression okay or should I try and drop the compression from the standard 10.2:1?

I’m running stage 4 ebay turbos with meth and the normal other bolt ons.

I got a question is there a way the piston goes to the front or back do thry have a mark? i mean the piston has an arrow or someting to know the way i need to put it so it dosent touch with valve if i put it wrong

If you were a filter coffee snob you would have that .10 gram scale.

Hey buddy I’m literally so close to having all my parts here for my built motor with the twin 53/53 MMPs and my head is almost done being ported also! Question.. I really really need you to send me a link or where I can buy the Head Bolts you used on your motor also. I’m going to do exactly what you did for the head bolts this is last thing I haven’t ordered yet please help me out!

I watched most of the video but I did not see you mention piston to wall clearance.
With those pistons you are using they will require larger piston to wall clearance than stock.
Usually will need anywhere from .0035"-.004" clearance

Will the maxpeeding conrods fit oem pistons?

Great stuff man, I know I'm a bit late and catching up with episodes but think how far you've come over the last year, phenomenal

Love these videos

Did you hone or bore out the cylinders? Just wondering

The correct way is balance the rods. Your pistons are fine. You grind each end of the rods to match them. to the nearest gram is fine. In theroy yours in + and - 1gram. You will be fine. Ring gaps are important, especially in a turbo engine.

Its an inline 6 motor you shouldnt need to do weighing as a tolerance problem these motors rattle themselves straight is what ive had plenty on mechanics tell me and ill say it just how they will have you ever seen an inline 6 motor of any kind have a balance shaft like a 4 cylinder motor does or have you seen people put on balancer after balancer trying to balance an inline 6 motor out like they would for a v8 car no you havent because they don’t shake or rattle slam it together without to much thought with all this extra thought youre putting into it you may fuck it up more doing that

Love your videos . I got a question so I will be doing a swap on mine the original engine has 218k miles on it and I got a 81k that I will be putting in because I am doing a single turbo swap . So I wanted to re build the original even though there isn't anything wrong with the engine. Would I have to send the block to a machine shop for the cylinder honing or whatever the name it is I can't remember right now as the cylinder walls would be ovaled from mileage or am I over thinking . I would like to throw some rods and pistons

Very nice assembling guys! Thanks for sharing. Dutch regards, Nico.

Do the ring haps have to be “clocked” i.e ring 2 gap 90 degrees to the ring 1 gap etc. ? i just remember having to do this when i did rings on my motorbike engine.

I was excited for this already but this video intensified it! I hope everything works. Fitment seems pretty flawless. Better than I expected honestly.

Let’s see the whole build….document all of it…more vids for us lol

Love this series! You're going to be known as the Matt Happel of down under. Sloppy N54 FTW!

I’m excited!!

Bro. things started getting interesting really, good luck with the build. Rings gap depends on the materials type that was made of as each has its own expansion measurements in regard the specific heat number so it’s best to stick to what the rings manufacture specifications. Are you keeping the OEM compression?

I’d definitely want to see all progress on engine and the unboxing please.

Sorry to hear you've got to move. Glad to hear you had a great sleep after the teardown video. You're not the only one to have a sleepless night over something so small, that you know is off. The subconscious part of your brain is telling you something is wrong in what you've done, but you're sure you've done it right. Just glad I could help you rest that night, as I've said I'm always available for whatever advice I can give Andrew, any time, any day.

Your thinking on the overall weights of pistons, rods, bearings, pins etc. was correct, I usually put the heaviest ones closest to the front and read of the engine, as that's where the higher rotational mass of the flywheel/flex plate and harmonic balancer/crank pulley live, so they will help negate that extra gram or two. Your ring gaps should be pretty good, don't panic about it. Where you measured is the better part, the bores may be tapered with it being narrower at the top, which where you need it to seal the most when the cylinder is firing.

I was extremely sceptical of this build but it looks really good for a diy build. I am not at all experienced but have watched a lot of engine builds by pro's and whenever channels (engine power) have done diy style builds they look a lot like this. Hopefully it holds as you hope and does what it says on the tin.

Brilliant video! I totally appreciate the authenticity and diligence you demonstrated here. This one's going into my permanent offline archive for future reference. ;) In the big picture, N54's are common enough at the moment, but not for long. BMW will never produce an engine like this again; although some say the B58 is a worthy successor. In a few years they'll be harder to find than an unmolested Countach. In any case true (non-billionaire) petrol heads and collectors will be looking for ways to keep these engines in running order down the road, affordably. Info on how to do it is invaluable.

Really interesting video. Keep up the great work.

That’s .05 mm clearance that’s 2 thou clearance not enough you should be around 2.5 to 3thou maximum that being
.075mm max clearance and .06 mm minimum factory clearance isn’t good when you want to make power as the tolerance in bearing clearance isn’t enough for the extra heat you produce in using more boost than factory as the cylinder pressure increases dramatically
Google boost Vs compression ratio and you should find a table that reads your compression ratio increase to the amount of boost you put in and you will be extremely surprised by what stress your putting your engine under

For your info there’s 40thou per mm so .5 mm is 20thou

Only file one edge of the ring and clean with trans fluid before re measure

6 thou of ring gap per inch of bore up to 30psi

Just wondering have you heard of the crank hub issue with the n54 when they are DCT or manual when running big power. I know the n55 is bad for it but I just been seeing a few videos about it.. its not so bad in the Autos tho..

If you want to run 800whp you’ll need a head stud solution. Arp head studs (preferably 11mm all around) would be best. Even the 11mm main and the 9mm outer head stud kit would be alright at 800whp. Unfortunately lifted my head on my built motor with 3k miles after pushing around 32psi on a single turbo set up. My buddy that built his motor around the same time as me experienced the same issue

Amazing video!!!! Thanks again doing the same in next few days!!!!

Build it close enough for the girls I go with, it will be fine

Good vid. As I have mentioned before , if N54 folk want to go even more budget, simply re-gap stock piston rings , pull torque out of the tune and go upgraded head studs. You can push the power much further, perhaps 1000hp or near to it might be within the capabillity of the engines stock gear?People have commented you may want a little bigger 2nd ring gap to the 1st ,to negate flutter but, having said that with the larger gaps in general you have there, it's not necessarily an issue. You will have more 'noise' for the piston assembly, so you may have some knock sensor tune fun ahead of you

Lots of good laughs during the commentary 😁😅 so many that's what she said and other innuendo to play off of

FYI you should only file one side of the ring at a time (also in the real st video).