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#deck_boards #deck_boards_installation #deck_boards_replacement #how_to_build_a_deck #build_a_deck #diy_deck #floating_deck #ground_level_deck #deck_building_tips #deck_framing #frame_a_deck #floating_deck_diy #how_to_frame_a_deck #framing_a_deck #diy_floating_deck #camo_deck_fastening_system #deck_screws #DIY #deck #decking #screws #replace_deck_boards #deck_board_installation #how_to_install_deck_boards #decking_installation #composite_decking_installation #deck_buildingКомментарии:
what kind of wood are you using?
ОтветитьGreat video & tips! Why did you use spacers when the camo tool has built-in spacers? Cheers!
ОтветитьI smell a razorblade business..
ОтветитьYou can not just choose the "best side" to face up, especially with hidden screw edge fastening and no screw in the center of the board.. These boards WILL cup or crown. If you turn the boards in opposite alignment to the bark you will have some cupping concave and others crowning convex. These screws can not stop this from happening as there is no screw in the center of the board. You should install "bark side up" so that you will have crowning instead of cupping. This will allow water to naturally run off in the reveal between the boards. On very rare occasions a board will cup in the opposite direction relative to the bark. when that happens you will most likely need to replace it to look and feel correct.
Also, I never use a specific spacer such as 1/8 inch. I use a variety of spacers depending upon the needed reveal. Every board is slightly different in width and can even vary along its length. installing as a constant spacer can cause a build up of tolerance at the final board. One does not want the final rip to be (example) 4.5 inches at one end and 3.75 at the other.
Instead, every few boards re-measure the left, right and center of the deck to the last wall. Begin adjusting early, using just a tiny bit more reveal where necessary to assure the rip cut board will be the same width on its entire length. never allow less than 2/3 of a board width for the final rip, it will NEVER look correct and be sure that all reveals look even overall. Better to rip the first board enough to assure at least 2/3 of a board in the final ripped board when you know that this will happen.
This is all basic stuff.
Great video. How do you attach the L-brackets when you flip the last board?
ОтветитьLooks time consuming and expensive ... traditional exposed deck screws rule, and can be easily tightened after wood shrinks/warps.. and are easily accessable for future repair or modifications.
ОтветитьWarped board? Re-wet it down. Seriously soak it until it is saturated with water, then screw it down. It will dry true enough. However, remember that while wet it is also swollen. As it dries it will shrink. One board may not affect much but more than one could cause inconsistencies with your gapping. The gaps after drying will be wider. This goes for all lumber on all projects like decks, fences etc.
ОтветитьNobody is bother if you see the screws !
ОтветитьReally, really beautiful🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
ОтветитьWhat's the point of using screws vs nails if you don't actually do it in a way that allows easy removal of the boards when time comes for repairs? I only use face screws for that reason. Makes it easy to access them as my cedar deck needs regular maintenance because of the humid climate we have in Onrtario.
ОтветитьStart your first board at the start of the home or structure your deck IA built off of. After you install it. Start pulling measurements from other end of the deck. So you can start squaring up your deck boards to land perfectly on it. It's alot easier and the end product comes out nice. With less work.
ОтветитьYou never said what to do with the angles after you flip the board over. How do you fasten them to the joist if the deck is 2 feet off the ground and can't access to screw them?
Ответить"Daru Dhillon". Why does that name sound so familiar??? Have you been on TV?
ОтветитьWhere the are screws
ОтветитьGreat deck videos - thanks! I would like to use the bracket method for the first deck board. Do you have a recommendation for fasteners? I can’t find any galvanized screws that are short enough for a 5/4” cedar board.
ОтветитьGreat video! Where can I find a list of the exact type of deck boards you used. Are they cedar? Having troubles choosing which type of wood!
ОтветитьGreat video and I really appreciate the detailed explanations. I have a couple of questions; for a ground-level floating deck where one side will be against the house, how do you recommend attaching that last deck board since there is no access to the underneath to screw in the brackets? And, is there a recommended way in which direction to lay the deck boards - the long way or short way on the deck?
ОтветитьAmazing, detailed video. I'm ready to build my own deck now.
ОтветитьHey Daru: I just ordered a slab entry door (Rustic knotty alder 3 panel unfinished wood). Do you have any finish recommendations (favorites) regarding specific finishes, stains, colors, paint, urethanes etc. for exterior and or interior side? Thx!
ОтветитьAny idea how to anchor the deck to the ground in areas prone to hurricanes?
ОтветитьBravo Daru 🤩😘
ОтветитьBravo! It’s always impressive to see a person installing decking who doesn’t curse. I haven’t mastered that skill. Otherwise, if deck boards go a bit squirrelly and warped, hitting them with a hose and leaving them to heat up in the sun makes them far more pliable when it comes to finessing them back into straight.
ОтветитьGreat video. I like the jig you set up for straightening the boards. I used the camo screws on my floating deck about six years ago and love the look. Had a couple break but that’s to be expected. It is very time consuming though.😊
ОтветитьYou the woman 👩 👍👍😘⚾️
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