Manual 35mm Lenses with Mirrorless Cameras

Forgot to mention that you have to set the camera to shoot without lens.

I’ve been doing this for a long time using FD lenses and old Minolta lenses And there’s just something so satisfying about using it

Hi, Thank for video and information, what camera and lens did you film this video with ? Thanks,

I am learning something very interesting today . Now I have to see whether instead of the intended purchase of Nikon Z6 I should consider this very strong contender Sony . I am interested in video performance as well.

When using non-automatic legacy lenses in the mode you suggest (manual aperture and shutter, auto ISO), the histogram only shows the range of luminance in the scene, and can’t show a shift in exposure because the auto ISO adapts to your aperture and shutter speed to keep the exposure "normal." (The photographer does, however, have creative control over those elements of a photograph controlled by the shutter and the aperture, other than exposure.) To use the exposure settings to shift the exposure (up or down), you must fix all three variables. Only then can the settings result in the histogram’s shift to the right or left.

Here are the combinations:

Manual shutter/manual aperture/fixed ISO: Complete manual control that allows the photographer to adjust the exposure AND complete creative control.
Shutter priority/manual aperture/fixed ISO: A legacy lens won’t function in an auto-aperture mode, so this shooting mode is effectively the same as the mode above. You might as well just shoot in full manual.
Manual shutter/manual aperture/auto ISO; Shutter priority/manual aperture/auto ISO; Aperture priority/auto shutter/fixed or auto ISO: These combinations will automatically adjust to give the same exposure, because each has at least one component that will adjust the exposure no matter what the photographer does manually.

Note that exposure compensation and bracketing force the camera to under or overexpose, or both, causing a departure from the “normal” exposure even in modes that don’t otherwise permit the photographer to alter the exposure.

Remember, when you change an input (like shutter speed) and something else compensates automatically (aperture and/or ISO), the exposure will always be the same. If you want to move the histogram (for instance, to expose to the right – ETTR – as digital photographers are usually taught), you must use a mode of shooting that doesn’t permit the camera to defeat your efforts.

Thank you so much, I'm new photography and your explanation of peaking level was helpful. Keep up the great content.

If you set your creative to b&w with +3 contrast and sharpness. Focus peaking will be more responsive.(this will only work if you shoot raw or all your photos will come out b&w.)

Can't believe I'm learning this on a 5 year old video!!!

Young Ted :D

i expected a video about manual 35mm lenses... DISAPPOINTEEEEEED!

How good is that camera? I love the size of the body. I'm currently using an XT20, but hate the wake time and the fact that I have to press the shutter to wake it. Sometimes miss shots on the streets and also, sometimes trip the shutter and shoot the ground.

Time to revisit this...it’s very popular now...many old lens manufacturers are starting up again. I bought a new Leica SL as the SL2 came out for a song. I’m cherry-picking manual lenses for it, Voigtländer 50 F1.2, Zeiss 35 F1.4, Voigtländer 21 F1.8, Voigtländer 75 f 1.8 to start.

You should seriously consider using a pop filter or a de esser! Good stuff though!

FANTASTIC explanation ! Which wide FD Canon lens you recommend for landscape and which converter not to destroy the Sony bayonet? Thanks!

Thank you for this, been trying to figure out how the f stop numbers work on manual lens. this is a good starting point for me.

Many premium prime lenses narrower than full frame 35mm are great even today. Only wider than full frame prime 24mm lenses have advanced a lot the last decade.

Thanks for your awesome video. I just bought this Sony A7 today for a incredibly low price and with in store warrenty. Last SLR was film in 1985. Buying a lens adapter to use my 4 analogue 35 mm lens. Went Pro for a great deal price.

I like to use all the Minolta AF lens with my Sony A57, the mount is the same, and the Minolta lens act exactly like the sony lens. On the A57 it is called 'peaking color' and use also have to use 'peaking level'.

Good info

dang I guess I need a new camera still shooting with a Rebel XSi from 2009.

ngebacot

Check out Tecart LM-EA7 autofocus adapter to your Sony you can atofocus all the old vintage lenses on your Sony

I agree that MF lenses are quite good on my Sony A6500. In fact using focus assist and peaking levels it is easier for me to shoot a portrait with an MF lens on my Sony than to shoot a portrait with a camera like my Canon 6D2 which forces me to focus and recompose wince the focus points are grouped into the center of the frame. There are some wonderful M-42 mount lenses out there a very decent prices. Some have excellent image quality and others like the Russian Helios lenses produce distinctly different images with some interesting optical characteristics.
OTOH, when shooting fast moving subjects, I would choose an AF lens hands down over MF...

If focal length is doubled going from full frame to M43 what about lens speed. Would my Rokkor 1.4 only be half as fast; 2.8?

I am a total novice and I have appreciated your video and thank you for the simplistic tutoring of adapting old lenses to a modern body. I have a Canon T70 and two fabulous (looking) lenses, FD 50mm 1:1.8 and a super OZECK II Auto Zoom MC 1: 3.5 - 4.5 f=35 - 150mm. I've had the Camera and the lenses since my youngest daughter was at university where she used it for course work and she is now nearly 40 years old. I've decided to try and adapt the lenses to a modern Canon Body and have some fun.

I love mirrorless, I shoot FujiFilm. The reason I love them is in the studio with low lighting or low powered modeling lights. You can turn on/off preview exposure with manual settings. That way you can actually see for composing the shot compared to not having that option on a DSLR. I switched from Nikon and never looked back years ago.

Excellent video, really useful info, thanks Ted!

I simply don't understand why there's not more people out there talking about using vintage lenses on mirrorless bodies! You can get some really good and cheap vintage nikon and canon lenses that you put on a sony A7 mark "whatever fits your wallet" and get a top level solution (body+lens) for a bargain.

Speedbooster on micro 4/3 solves the wide angle issue.

What mounts to the Nikon film lenses use?

And another question more, What adapters did you used for this video? I mean, for the Sony camera that appears there in plane. Thanks again!

What is the main name for the mount of a Sony adapter? I´ve seen that the nex ones are not for fullframe mirrorless sony cameras. So, what do you recommend me to use on my Sony Alpha A7II? Thanks !

Thanks for the video; can anyone answer this question - I've tried looking everywhere: Can focus peaking and magnification be used simultaneously on the original Sony A7?

Which brand adaptor you use with the Nikkor 105mm 2.5 ?

You neglected to mention the internal reflections inherent in those cheapo Chinese adapters. Lining the inside with velvet or painting with flat black paint corrects 90% of these problems. Installing a rectangular, blackened cardboard baffle does the trick as well. Best bet, be on the safe side and do both mods. This makes virtually unusable $10.00 adapters worthwhile.

Vacationed with an A9 and just a Zeiss Loxia 2/35. It was thoroughly enjoyable.

I’ve been doing this for a while and bought three adapters to use different kinds of lenses for my camera and it’s great

This is why I Have a SonyA7ii , because I can use old amazing Nikon ais lens . It is great to choose what you focus, and how easy It is.

very nice ! thanks for the clear explanation, the peaking did it for me as the manual focus is indeed a hassle on these smaller ev cams !
I now use some nice nikon lenses and a nice very compact tokina zoom on my a5100 travel kit

Hi Ted.
When I shoot my EOS M3 with the auto lens, the iris is wide open (as long as I don't touch the shutter), The changes the screen brightness, the histogram and the light meter by analysing the current input of the sensor, ISO level and the expected aperture and shutter speed.
When I searched for 'how to use manual lenses with mirrorless' I expected to find that I have to insert the lens aperture and the camera will adjust the histogram and light meter to the lens's aperture. I can understand now that it is not mater since the histogram will be based on current exposure.
is that correct?

You absolutely can use FD mount lenses on modern EF bodies. There's been an adapter for a long time. At least a decade

I have a Nikon D3400 been shooting with it for some time now I'm looking to upgrade to the Sony a7 any advice?

Noob Alert- I have a M43 Lumix G7 camera and some Nikon glasses, whats gonna happen if i get an adaptor and use the camera on Manual mode and control the aperture and stuff from the lens adaptor will my camera be able tell me if its overexposed?

There is also a zoom feature on my canon m50 which helps with focus.

Ted, let me first state that I am an amateur photographer who photographs family and for the enjoyment of saving a slice of time for future generations to look at. As such my observations on the Sony mirrorless cameras are as follows: I bought a Sonly A7Rii for this very reason that you mention. To be able to reuse my old lenses. Almost immediately I realized how difficult it is to change lenses on the Sony mirrorless cameras and not introduce dust bunnies onto the sensor. I absolutely dread changing lenses on this camera. I purchased the 24 to 70 Sony/Zeiss zoom and it stays on the camera 90% of the time. The primary reason I bought this camera is not being realized and with the zoom lens the A7Rii is a beast. What this experience did do was to cause me to reevaluate film. Hasselblad images scanned with my Epson V850 look better than what the Sony A7rii can produce with the Sony lenses. Only with some of the Zeiss lenses (Loxia & ZF.2) does the Sony exceed those scanned Hasselblad photos in overall aesthetics. I have learned how to clean the sensor and remove the spots in post, but sensor dust is a major problem with mirrorless cameras. From this experience I now shoot 70/30 film to digital. Another added benefit of film is that it will likely survive several generations. In most cases I doubt digital data will survive longer than the original creator.

I tried and I tried to watch this but you speak thousands of words and say very little.

Sorry, but I think the old lenses SUCK. With today's 42MP sensors it shows. I didn't believe it before, I believe it now. And, I am not talking about cheap, old lenses. I am talking about lenses which I had believed to be superb in the past. Lenses which are tack sharp and have excellent aberration performance on film. I adapted a few of my old favorites and they simply don't measure up to today's premium offerings or even today's not so premium offerings.

I tried the Contax MM mount Zeiss 1.4/50mm Planar T*, 2.8/28mm Distagon T*, 1.4/85 Planar T*, 2.8/135 Sonnar T* and the 3.4/35-70 Vario-Sonnar T*. These have been exceptional lenses for their time and they served me very well on the S2 an the AX film bodies. Adapted to the A7RII? Well, let's just say that they are not as sharp as the Batis 2/25, Sony 1.8/55 or the Sony 1.4/85 GM -- by a long shot. Just put them up side by side in light room... you'l see. If that is not enough, they are not as sharp as the 1.8/50 Sony Kit Lens. No kidding. And, no, there is nothing wrong with the adapter. The only good thing about the old glass is that they don't have Aspherical elements and anomalous dispersion elements. This means that for all their optical inferiority and lack of resolution, they are not going to have onion ring bokeh. Apart from that though, they suck in just about every measure.

Great video. Using a canon FD 50mm 1.8 on my Sony A6000. Its amazing. Lens only cost me £10. This camera is so versatile. I managed to figure all this out through trial and error, but your video is exactly what people need to see. Also if you assign Focus assist to the custom button 1, then you can nail that focus every time.

Two additional important things that should be mentioned about manual cameras:

If your camera has in-body stabilization (like the Olympus OM-D series), then you need to go into the settings menu and manually enter the focal length of the lens in question. Stabilization does not work properly unless it knows the focal length. When using native lenses, the focal length is set automatically by the electronic connection with the lens, so you never have to fuss with it, but when using manual lenses you need to enter it every time you swap in a lens.

And less critically, and also more widely known, is the ability to zoom in to assist with manual focusing. This is applicable to all lenses of course, but if you only ever use autofocus you might not know about it.