Detailed DIY Speaker Driver Selection || Step 2.5 - "How To Design Your Own Speaker In 6 Steps"

3000dB?!?! Mate, you gonna kill someone with that kind of volume!! Haha, I know, you meant 3000hz. 😂 Nice series of vids, very helpful!

Why dont you build some speakers using top quality drivers ???

Question, following your videos and tips would I be able to actually build high quality loudspeakers (sound wise speakers) that can compete with higher quality brand name speakers. I mean a 2000$ dollar kit to compete with something double or triple that price point. Or, do the higher brand names have the advantage on us DIYers with crossover technology and technical knowledge. I’m very curious because I want to build a kick ass system that will considered audiophile quality but I’m just not sure. Thanks love the channel

Yo, did you die? Cause that would suck, your vids are pretty good.

So I have 4 of these and I'm putting them in a homemade box all 4 in a row. Should I make separate chambers for them? I also have 2 6 inch passive radiators and was wondering if I could put one on each side. Just didn't know if that would be good for 4 4 inch speakers

This was really helpful. Thanks.

CX120-8 is an excellent choice , but for a real 2-way speaker my choice will 2X TCP115-4 + SEAS Prestige 19TFF1 - H0737 in MTM configuration and an X-point somewhere around 3600 Hz (out of the human voice spectrum)

hmm, but dont you need tweeter attenuation when the power below that crossover point is being split between the two woofers regardless? or does overal percieved SPL increase when there is two woofers splitting the power? sorry i know very little about all this.

Kirby, your web site has expired, just a heads up pal.

the speaker sensitivity is very low but the video is nice

Also, rule number 1: The best crossover is NO crossover.

You completely disregard the cone material whether it should be paper or aluminum or some exotic Kevlar ( they all sound different… personally paper is more natural) and what are the differences in the sound quality. In addition I think sensitivity is a big issue because a lot of people have low power amplifiers

Ahhh kirby the bob ross of speaker design

Be more direct in teaching the math and science. It takes both for a good build. Use a white board to demo the comparison.

Hi whats the ideal driver sizes for a diy bookshelf/studio speakers

4 ohm vs 8 ohm?

What about power handling? Should this be considered too? I have a 100 W amp

Great vid thanks!

- Does ot make sense?
- No.
- Alright!

i am a musician. i want to make something which gives me that moving and clear bass. i watched ur studio monitor guide. but m thinking to expand the speakers and make it into a home theater system(only if possible). So should i make a full range setup(will that give me sufficient bass)or make a 2.1 type of setup and what size should i go for?

Best little driver of Dayton Audio CF120-4. 👍

Great information, but you could have shorted the video down a whole lot. A lot of "uhms" and babbling. Sorry.

Don't you have to consider wattage and impedance of the drivers?

Hi Kirby, love your video! Can you update your link to the Worksheet?

Maybe I missed it but did you mention why you chose 2 midwoofers instead of 1?

Great channel. Glad I found it. Thank you lots. :-) :-)

Isn't the rule of thumb +3db for every matching speaker added. So one 4" woofer is 81db 1w/1m, if you add a second matching 4" woofer wouldn't their overall sensitivity go up to 84db 1w/1m? The tweeter being 90db 1w/1m wouldn't you still need about a -6db Lpad on it to bring down to match the woofers?

This is an older video but hte way you break it down and simplify how to compare and combined speakers is phenomenal! Love this series and you have single handed gotten me into custom speaker building with the breakdowns!!!

nice video. The part were you go into the tweeter being more efficient a good pick because there will be two drivers kinda lost me. Typically isn't having multiple drivers basically a benefit because they have to each work less? Meaning the excursion gets cut in half resulting in lower distortion. Are the woofers going to be wired in parallel cutting the impedance in half resulting in more power to the lower band and thats why?

Where does audio quality come into your considerations? Ie. different drivers have different audio reproduction qualities. What about the material that the cones are made from?

After watching to 2.5 I thought fuck it I’ll just buy some .

Hi Kirby.
You did not say that when the driver is mounted in a cabinet it's SPL graph is quite different from the datasheet.
Also - the low end of the SPL graph depends on the acoustic design: closed box or vented and it's parameters.
You need to know how they measured SPL for the datasheet.

Jesus Christ, use do not disturb mode!

Hiya Kirby. Do you ever consider using a limiter of sorts for protection? Personally I dont care for them much.

a question, if your amp. can handle till 8ohms, so you need than 2 woofers of 4 omh or doesn't that matter?

Hi, thanks for your videos. I want to construct similar setup but I have some doubts.
What is the final impedance on each stereo channel, 8 ohm?
How is distributed the amplifier power among each of two woofer and one tweeter, 25/25/50% 33/33/33%? Thanks

Would be sweet to see you build a high quality bluetooth portable speaker that's like.. 450 watts.

If you press alt/option and then click the top right icon (the three lines) for the notification bar, it'll put your computer in do not disturb mode and you won't have to remove each notification individually. Just a little something to make your life easier 😉

Dude, many thx for explaining this. Thx.

Kirby,
Thank you for these videos. I've been looking to replace woofers/tweeters in some DIY speakers that I inherited from a previous owner in our current house. This is great information for a person looking for replacement woofers/tweeters for an already existing enclosure & outdated woofers/tweeters. My biggest constraint is fitting woofers/tweeters into my pre-cut flush-mount enclosure. I don't have a way to cut/modify the enclosure at the moment & don't want to spend money on a router.

I am trying out the software, and parts express is FRD format, and software is WDR format.. is there a way to convert

Once you start talking about dB you should take a moment to explain to everyone that the gap from 90dB to 81dB is actually huge, that the scaling isn't linear.

Typical Jen, always trying to steal the show..

IS IT OKAY TO USE DIFFERENT IMPEDANCE ? LOOKS LIKE 4OHMS TWEETER AND 8OHMS WOOFER. HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH IT? THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!

Hey Kirby, thanks so much for this excellent series, very informative. I'm looking to start my first speaker build in the next week or two but my soldering skills aren't too flash so am looking to use off the shelf crossovers. The TCP115-8 = 55-6000hz and TD20F-4 = 3000-20000hz, can I buy a 5K low pass filter and 5k high pass filter and wire them in parallel? So the sub 5K frequency gets sent to the woofer and the above 5K gets sent to the tweeter? These filters are about $5 on PE and would be a lot easier than soldering my own which is something I'll probably have a crack at once I've got a couple of builds under my belt. Thanks

I don't use software. Instead when I tune my speakers they are tuned by ear by adding different length cardboard ports and once I am satisfied with the bass output esp in the crucial 50hz to 250hz range. Drivers are selected by sensitivity, woofer 89db, tweeter 90db and crossover point depends on sensitivity at that point (90db at 2500hz)

You are my hero! I want to quit my job and start making speakers.... like you. Love from Greece!

great tut as always. hmm. i have a pair of dual cone full range drivers, but of unknown ts parameters. which i will have to measure. have you ever measure ts parameters?

Is it recommended to use the same brand for the mid woofer and tweeter?