Project 63 part 17 - Install steel main caps and line bore an A-Series block

Thanks, this was a very good video, I really enjoyed it.

Wow brother, this is very interesting. I am from the USA. I really enjoy slow motion machine work. I had a friend back in the late 80s early 90 that had a Mini GTS I think it was. It was a race type version. His dad used to race them in the 70s here. He had to order a new block from France and then pretty much everything else lol. He essentially had a brand new high performance engine. As you can imagine, you can't just walk into a part store here back then and get anything for those little cars over here. Thank you for the content.

You were right on with using flanged sleeves and machining them for flats, I don’t know why you abandoned that plan.
I’d question the accuracy of the bore job as the oil pan rails aren’t always a datum location. The mains should have been finished first, and then the block mounted in the boring machine off the main datum line.
If they didn’t have that fixturing, cutting the deck off the mains and then referencing that deck surface to the boring bar would work too. It iften requires some shimming of that pan rail to dial in correctly.

It’s worth mentioning that Teflon seals should NOT be lubricated when fitting. I learnt this the hard way fitting a crank seal to my defender (3 times 🙊)
Goes against everything I was taught.
I was lubricating the deal with the fluid it was going to contain, but it leaked each time.
New OEM seal each time and I was meticulous!

The long end of the ARP stud is designed to apply torque force in the deep end of the hole and not on surface of the block to avoid strain and surface lift , that request to be sure than the threaded hole ( the real thread lenght ) is long enough to not stop the stud before it reach the end of the hole .

Nice work , impressive skill , a true world of real mechanic and machining .

Super video guys! Great insight into preparing the block for the steel crank. Thanks for sharing

Dear Steve I would like to develop this type main seal conversion for a 1964 Holden engines, could you please tell me the supplier of this type of seal . It would be appreciated Kit Cullen from Down Under

Love the detail to all MED's products. Such great engineering and Steve knows his stuff. 👌

Great video, I especially like the in depth detail that you have taken on this block

Another stunningly useful video. I’ve understood all the theories for years, but actually seeing it being done is highly illuminating. Very impressive seeing the care taken by the machinists too - seeing craftsmen take pride in their work is really pleasing. I’ll be trucking my blocks way down south to MED in future. Thanks for these videos, can’t wait for the next one. Cheers, Will

The second half was a bit boring 😂😂😂😜

Do you machine or check the mating face of the cap to ensure it is flat and not a finish produced by the side of an endmill?

My Dad would have loved that , he had his apprenticeship at Armstrong Whitworth then moved on to British Steel, Jarrow. Both Foundries are now gone as is my Dad sadly !!!

At what power levels/rpm can the center main cap strap alone
be used?

Awesome engineering. I’m very impressed with the thoroughness of preparation through to completion of machining.

Really enjoy your knowledgeable input to this series , thank you 👍🙂

Quality 👍👍

Just amazing, commentary brilliant

I suspect that the multi-web crank with it's full counter weights has much less whip and hence less stress on the centre main cap.

A masterclass in A-series engineering. Steve's knowledge is amazing , he's build 4 engines for me over the years (1430 5 speed , 1293 inline, 1000 mini 7 and super mighty mini) all are superb powerful drive-able engines. Spend your money well - go to MED

Incredible video very informative and a great piece of engineering