91,92,93,94,95 Ford f150 How to test a egr control solenoid

Great Video! If your buying a new one might as well tear the old one apart.. 🤸

Well done, as you said not much on here regarding the internals of the valve. I couldn't hear a click either so not sure it was working. Feel more confident it is now. Thanks, all the way from UK.

My truck is out on four cylinders 2,4,6,8 runs like shit headder pipe is cool when the one
To the left or right is hot every second cylinder not firing and fuel in my base pan raising the oil level wtf is going on coil or distributor maybe??

So weird that there is essentially a constant vacuum leak through that solenoid valve foam other than when it is activating the EGR valve.

Very helpful video. Thank you so much. I'm dealing with this Hell right now. I have a 1993 ford Explorer Sport V6 with 365,000 miles. I keep getting a CEL with 332 and 335 codes. Rough idle, surging. Replaced with new dpfe, throttle control sensor, idle air control valve, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned throttle body and egr valve. Tested egr valve by sucking on hose, starts to idle really bad almost stalls. Just bought my 3rd erg solenoid. My first one was bad in the box, kept getting a 558 code. Now the codes say my other new egr solenoids won't open during test?? (They all can't be bad....can they?) Maybe a vacuum leak I missed somewhere or a restriction in the one of my lines. Waiting for my new handheld vacuum pump to come in the mail to hopefully get to the bottom of this. Sick and tired.

Thanks for sharing. Great explanation that even I understood. I have been fighting with a code 34 on a fresh rebuilt ford 5.8 efi and the egr valve solenoid was my issue. This video helped me determine whether it was my pcm or the solenoid.

Video was excellent,

Are you from Philly? 😂 I can tell by how u talk

I went to hell and back replacing parts on my 4.9 bronco. Then I found this part and it didn't respond to batter at all

Thanks! I was thinking it was not working also. I was applying 12vdc to the pins and expecting it to click also.

Put your meter on the diode setting and you should be able to test any typical diode, zener diodes are different

Thank you very much

I bought off of Ebay an original Ford diagnostic manual for the EEC-IV ..This thing is 6 inches thick..I have a 94 E350 van with the 460 engine..In the manual it has bench testing for each and every part of the EEC-IV system. It says the the ohm specs should be between 51-108 ohms..If it is not, replace it..
That is one thing on any car you work on..DATA!! Info...without it you are lost..On Ebay I bought a full factory fan foldout wire diagram..Every wire, every circuit..DATA!!

At the bottom of the test sheet, it states that vacuum leakage being small is normal and is not "detrimental to valve function"

So great, you are one of the few that actually show how this thing works. Others have videos that are not even using the right valve, they will be showing us either the tab/tad valve. The tab/tad valves function completely different and are not for the egr at all. Thanks for sharing this great video!

Thanks , great vids

Great video! Helped me out

Thanks a bunch for sharing Robbie. My EGR system has been throwing me for a loop and I'm glad I stumbled on this video. Helped explain how it all works. Tested the resistance and the vacuum flowing to my EGR and got nothing on both so gotta buy a new solenoid now. Hopefully that fixes it.

Good job!!! Can I just blow air through tho with my mouth? And then run test leads to the battery with it disconnected and see if it opens?

Great video

Very helpful, showing us the diode explains shorting if powered with reverse polarity. Showed no clicking if powered right which had me buying several, showed us it is open when off etc. These are buggers! One point you did not mention, the vehicle will not send signal to solenoid until it is up to running temperature!

awesome video, i appreciate the thoughts. So i’m having a high idle/ poor idle experience which is leading me to a vacuum leak. After testing the solenoid and egr valve sensor, i discovered that the green egr vacuum line has constant vacuum, i assume that’s no good ??? Any thoughts would help

Thanks from France. Same problem on Ford Transit 2.0 DOHC

T in a vacuum gauge and see if getting too much or too little vacuum.