Plastic (FDM) or Resin (LCD) 3D Printing?! Which is BEST for Cosplay & Props?!

My fdm prints don't need to be sanding if it's dialed in

given resin toxicity I would NOT put it anywhere on my face, even cured and painted

Definitely fdm is better for cosplay i have both resin cost alot more and the build plate is smaller. If you sand the filament one it gets better and painted. The resin is more for minitures or smaller stuff and stuff that had alot details.

Perfect video exaclly what i was searching for - thank you

BEST video ever about Resin vs Filament 3d printers.
👁️👁️👃👁️👁️🙏
Thank you so much, subbed. 👍

Hi I’m a complete beginner, and I was just thinking of starting 3d printing and I like the bambu lab X1C. I was wondering if I can use this with my Mac computer or does it operate with the need for any computer

frank for the win all the time

What's with the obsession with wash&cure stations? For a buck or two, you can get a large, sealable container you can put your prints and cleaning fluid in and you can slosh it around like there's no tomorrow to wash it and a cheap nail polish curing lamp will run you maybe ten bucks and works very well. I can't imagine spending a hundred bucks or more on a wash&cure machine and no, you absolutely DO NOT need it.

Other than that, the rules are pretty simple: You want durable parts that can handle some degree of manhandling? FDM is pretty much the only way to go. You want large or multipart prints? FDM, resin pieces tend to warp, so aligning the pieces is a bit of pain, far worse than FDM. Sure, you can do them in resin, but keep in mind that resin is more expensive than filament. Resin should be reserved for smaller parts that require high detail (and preferably where accidentally bumping them into things is not going to happen) like miniatures, that's it.

If you Resin print a Helmet, Facemask, etc.,: Is it safe to wear on your face without worry of breathing in Resin particles?

Basically Resin is worse then? 🤣🤣🤣

Durability and cost comparison between similar printed parts?... Specifically, those that would take some abuse?

Hi Frank, I love the honesty and how to apply both SLA and FDM. I want to add resin printing to my FDM farm. For a newbie which printer would you start with? I want to print Nikko Industries flexies and toy hot rod body models.

fdm is still better in my opion

I loved the whole video but you knocked the cost comparison analysis portion out of the park! It was clear and concise!

I would love to use resin but my current housing arrangement will not allow it. Not enough space to safely secure it, but i appreciate this video. Gave me a lot to think about

conclusion, buy both printers

MOSPEADA Helmet can you make it ?

Thanks for this I am looking into buying a 3D printer this year and was now sure how I wanted to go, know I know I am in no way in a position to use a resin printer.

6 inch 4K Resin printer costs $100 now, not $300 as in video.

what type of filament do you usually use for your cosplay stuff?

I started with resin, could not work with it untill I had another round of disposable income to make up an area to clean

i have one of the biggest 3d printers you can get (that i know of a Neptune 3 max) and the smallest resin printer that can print a small figure at most cost nearly double my printer its is insane not counting all the extras like a curing station and the resin

Im gonna call it before hand, because as with every video like this... ever. The answer is depends.

Thanks

For miniatures figures (like warhammer): Resin
For Figures/statues up to 1/4 scale: Resin (you can use PLA for big things like the base of the figure)
For figures/statues bigger than 1/4 scale: PLA (you can use resin for small details like the head or hands for a better quality)

Can you share the links for making a Ironman suit please

Use resin before primer filler works wonders

What's the iron man face and I 3D print this

Hey everyone , Frank just wanted to say your advice on alot of this has helped me with a bunch of my prints between printing, painting and doing some work on things. That said I run into an issue with failing supports from time to time, its mostly the smaller ones I pit a brim to try and keep them on build plate, but still fail. Was wonder if maybe it could do with support density being too low? Or maybe I should try and beef up those smaller ones with custom supports, or lower/raise support travel speed? Using a cr 10s prov2 with a bondtech ddx extruder

I'd love to get into resin printing, but right now, I don't have the room. What I want in the print room is not just the resin printers, but a shelf with light-tight doors for resin storage, several cleaning and curing stations, as well as a portable UV flashlight that I can shine around after cleaning everything up to ensure there is no toxic resin lurking anywhere on the floor, shoes, etc.

It really does compliment FDM printing. Heck, you can use SLA printing resin to paint onto FDM prints, then shove them in a curing station to smooth them.

For functional prints (a bracket I use to hang something on a wall), right now, FDM is in the lead, but some newer SLA resins are getting pretty strong and give properly printed FDM stuff a run for their money.

What about the difference in strength/durability between the two!?!?!?

I run a 3D printing business and work with resin every single day, its not that toxic that you need to wear a mask and have all kinds of air purifiers. Its no different then working with any other type of chemical, handle it safely wear gloves and do not drink it. People handle way worse chemicals everyday without resorting to wearing a hazmat suit.

I get resin on my skin often and I have never EVER experienced any type of chemical burns our reactions... Now with that said if you do get some resin on you, rinse it off immediately and do not go outside in the sun or around a UV light with resin on your skin or it will heat up pretty hot and may cause a mild burn.

I think there is too much fear mongering about resin 3D printing, because of fake stories about people getting crazy 3rd degree burns. Just be careful don't be dumb and you will be fine using resin.

Chitubox has an anti aliasing setting that can be fine tuned to get rid of vertical stepping. Lychee has a surface smoothing feature as well, but slicing can take several hours to render if the file is too big, so I put all of my supports on by hand on Lychee then export to Chitubox to slice it.

It’s worth experimenting, but it looks damn near flawless when you get it right. It’s basically ready for primer if you dry and cure it carefully.

lets see some power ranger helmets?

Watching the resin drip from the build plate onto what I guess is the floor, is giving me anxiety

Did you mention the amount of time each one takes? Did I miss it?

I completely agree with this entire video.

With filament printers they are great for printing armors and props for cosplay and if someone wants something more detailed they could go with resin but there is one minor downside when using resin and that it can shrink especially in the cure phase.

What FDM printer has the easiest or best leveling ability? I have the creality cr-10s pro v2 and it is a nightmare to level. After every print I have to redo it and time and time again no matter how perfect it seems it is crazy off. My first few times was great, but it just gets worse and worse and more frustrating now. I just want to throw it away.

Yeah, but to get the quality of resin prints with fdm, you need lots of supplies and tools that exceed that of processing resin: lots of different grits of sandpaper, sander, fillers, primer, acetone vapor machines, etc. Plus fdm is so much slower, even with klipper printers, especially with Anycubic’s Mono M5, which is three times the speed of average resin printers.

For me the biggest decider is how fragile resin is, one drop or bump and the pieces shatters like a clay pot

Frank , could you try a FMD print and finish it with UV resin poored over and cured to smooth it , I know its a method that some have tried, is it something you've done or would try.

Can you please make a tutorial on your GOTG game Nova helmet? I thought you had said something about doing a video on it a little over a year ago. I'd love to see how you did it ❤

I live in Englind and its frezing cold

What do you do as far as heat resistance? Just never leave it in your car withput AC or do you prunt some stuff in ABS?

only thing im missing in this video is mentioning the brittleness of resin prints.

I have a Saturn 2 8k but have a Neptune 3 max on order and watch your videos with regards to cosplay stuff. Resin for my small items like rings and the max for big things.

I design action figures so my many FDM printers do not get used. They're basically useless for my type of printing. I do still use my FDM, but never for figs.

Awesome video! I was wondering what the difference is between the two in terms of durability of the final product?

Any chance you’ve read the Star Wars republic commando books or interested in making a suit from that series?

I love the contrast between plastic and resin, like they aren't meant to be put against each other, but used together. I've been looking into cosplay for a couple years now, and this is definitely a huge help!