How To Service Shimano Ball Bearing Hubs - Service A Shimano Hub

Do you know the dimensions of the bearings for fh-rm30 hubs please? :)

Whats the difference between drive side and non drive side?

Came to this video searching for a solution. I cannot identify model of my rear hub. It says Shimano, nothing else. So I will put a part this weekend to see if I can manage it. Bike run approx 25k km and I never looked inside :) so i think it is a time, since my rear wheel is not rolling properly.

Buenas sensaciones las que me transmite la bici

This was extremely helpful and answered many questions, thank you sir for including the tools necessary. And incidentally I think the telescopic magnet was genius. lol.

Good tutorial 👌
To me it seemed there is no need to actually remove the cassette, just removing the locknuts on the non-drive side should do the trick.

How much does this bike cost

Ik watching back on th8s video as I've been having issues with my reap wheel.
I dont understand why yours here is so different.
Mins goes the nut for the actual bearings then rather than a nut it's the silicon cover to stop rain then a nut. Making it tighten when I tighten the nut rather than staying as is...

Why is it important to undo the non drive side when the whole axle is removed anyway ?

You did explain well enough. Bad teacher.

Shimano CB-E110 is the best Shimano hub imo.

Strange thumb 👍

Why do I always look at tutorial videos just AFTER I have taken my rear axle to bits? :-)

One of best videos, if not the best!
Thanks mate!

This was very helpful, thank you!

Can anyone held with some brand names that still make cup and cone hubs? Any recommendations?

Sad to listen to Dan's comment that spares are hard to come by. Time was you just went to your local bike shop and bought replacement cones and bearings. My old Harry Quinn (handmade for me in Liverpool in 1973) still works fine and is easy to maintain. My 2013 Trek Madone 4.5 - the gear shifters pivots are worn but I can't get replacements. So according to my local bike shop I'm looking at an expensive upgrade from 10 to 11 speed. Either that or a new bike. How's that for progress?

can it be replaced with bearings?

anong size ng pinaka maliit na bolitas? Thank you

Good video but to simplify: Absolutely no need to remove the cassette. And like so many already said, avoid magnets, use a plier.

Should you replace the ball bearings every time you do this or no?

All this was rocket science when I first watched this video. Now I can do it blindfolded.

Do you need to put some grease on the actual hub surface that the cassette sits on??

You can make a really cheap grease gun by cutting a very small piece of the corner of a sandwich baggie (that creates your nozzle hole) then pack some grease into the baggie an squeeze it through the corner you just cut (like those bags a baker uses to ice a cake). The bigger piece of the bag you cut off the lager your bead of grease will be. Be careful not to squeeze too hard and split the bag. Have a good one!

If the bearing surface inside the hub is already pitted, the only option is to completely replace the hub and re-spoke the whole wheel again?

No one seems to include how to remove the free body hub. FUCK ME!

When it's all apart, there's play between the wheel and freewheel, ie. freewheel feels not tightly fastened to the hub.

Aah, when GCN videos were informative

Is the axle same thread with solid axle?
Is it possible to change axle with solid one to use nuts?

I was able to remove the rear axle without having to use any spanner or cone removing tool. There is something more wrong than I thought, isn't there?

Can you get seals for those on their own? My bike doesn't have one...

Thanks for doing a rear hub, all the other "tutorials" opted for the easier front one.

Absolutely brilliant video saved me a fortune. Thought I was going to need a new set of wheels. Thank you GCN

why dont they put regular bearings ..

it'd be super nice if you could also show how smooth is the wheel supposed to be moving after the cleanup. My rear wheel was a bit loose, so I didn't just clean up the bearings, I completely replaced them. It's not loose anymore, but still it feels a bit "stiff", and when I spin it, it doesn't keep moving as much as I'd hope... my MTB's wheel looks a lot more smooth. I'm pretty sure the axle isn't too tight, since I get the same results no matter how much I loose it. Need more grease? It's not supposed to be that smooth?

I don't service my own stuff but it is nice to know how things work!

I'm new to trying to understand how my bike actually works but can anyone explain why the cassette gear thing needs to be removed? Doesn't seem to obstruct bearing maintenance or replacement in anyway that I can work out

I have a Tiagra 4500 hub, and I have loosened the drive side lock nut. The drive side cone doesn't have the flat bits for a cone wrench. Should I simply tighten it up again, finger tight, adjust the bearing tension from the non drive side, and then lock the tension using a cone wrench, again from the non drive side? If so, what prevents the drive side lock nut from working it's way loose?

Idk which side is drive side should I just give up

2020, anyone?

thank you for covering everything.

Why not drill out the front and the rear center between the spokes and put a grease fitting in just pack it full of grease. As long as there's room for the grease fitting to go without hitting the center shaft. And check for play and adjust if necessary? The first time you would have to take it all apart to make sure you didn't hit the center axle but after that lot quicker and easier. On my beach cruiser bike it wouldn't work for the back with the brakes in the hub but it should work on my motorized bicycle possibly if grease fitting doesn't hit the center shaft.

As long as one uses appropriate grease, ideally a bit softer than NGLI 2 auto grease, there is no such thing as bearings "bedding in", unless perhaps you overpack too full(especially sealed bearings use only a 25-30% fill, whatever that means?!). Some types of hubs, like older Dura-Ace 7800 and many Campy hubs can be fine-adjusted in the bike frame, with QR tightened. Otherwise, re-checking for play/binding then re-adjusting as needed should be accomplished within one ride, then likely not again until the next overhaul.

Before you go out and buy these special wrenches (usually 15 & 17 mm),, try what you already have--many standard wrenches will fit--I've used them successfully for years.

So on the non drive side, I shouldnt tight it all the way up or it gets stuck? Am I right?? I just have to tight the screw to make sure there is not too much place for spindle to move around?

How frequent is "regular" servicing?