Anvil Atlas Full Review - After a year of using this fly tying vice - McFly Angler Reviews

Just FYI - It's not Anvil anymore, it's Wolff Indiana now.

Question about red eyes on flies is it depicting that it is a wounded Bait fish with head trauma

Nice tie man

Thanks for the informative video. Also some excellent public comments. I'm in the market so this helps a lot!

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Good video if you ever get in a mess with the superglue again nail polish remover will dissolve the glue (acetone)

Hey, the steel head are spawning in wisconsin we might be heading up there it is a great place. I caught a salmon in my video if you want to see it. You should think about going up there.

You need to check out Captain Quinn utube channel he takes a block of wood traces out a pair vise grips and cuts it out with a chainsaw the vice never moves and works great... Check him out

I've used alot of different types of vises and all of them twist and move to the point of aggravation

Very nice, fair review! I think I got my Atlas just before your first video popped up on it. I can't disagree with anything you've said pro or con, you were spot on. Although, rotating mine just now and I don't notice a stiff spot in the rotation or a loose spot. I'm guessing yours has a bur or something slightly out of round. My jaws line up as perfectly as my eyes can see. I've tied a few patterns on big 1/0 saltwater hooks, like you said, it takes a little tinkering to get the hook in the grooves. I've only tied as small as a 16 dry fly hook with no issues. This vise does seen built like a tank, but even then I get paranoid about breaking my jaws or the locking mechanism and sometimes put the hooks in a little loose lol.

Awesome channel, awesome comments, awesome review! 👍😎 Thanks Shawn!

I was wondering if you had tried the Peak vise. It's about the same price point. I was looking at both vises. I was leaning towards the Anvil, but the Peak has more ($) options. With regards to the cyanoacrylate glue, I believe there are solvents that can help. I read that acetone can be used. You also might try and heat the glued area. Heat usually loses the glue's integrity. You might try some Locktite on the handle that keeps turning lose. Super glue seems a little extreme and the plumber's tape you're referring to is teflon tape (I believe).

Just to let you know, I have exactly the same bugs (jaws & groove, material clip, uneven tension when rotating and the handle coming loose) and mine has got a machining defect that in my opinion is a beginner's fault: the threaded holes (4 of them) for attaching the handle were bored out of line with the center axis of body; in other words, the handle is always slightly crooked from the body. Now that does not reflect good workmanship and precision and living in Canada I just tought it would have been too costly to return it. But, like you say, in that price category it is one very good vise.

Vise

Has Wolff gotten in touch with you after this video?

I have this same vice and agree with what you said. I have had it since it came out. The jaws can be tricky and just the other day my rotary function is no longer smooth. There are stiff and loose spots. I have probably tied several hundred flies with it at this point.

Super glue can be removed with aceton.

Thread locker put some loctite on it

Thanks for this and your other videos. I went ahead and bought a Wolff Indiana Atlas even after watching this video. It seems that most of the issues you've had with it are due to an unusally large amount of superglue spilling into it and then being left to dry. I was concerned about the hook size limitations you indicated but then watched a rebuttal to this video that clearly shows the Atlas holding a wide range of hook sizes. To me, that was one of several factors that set the Atlas apart from the Peak. I really didn't want to have to buy extra jaws for extra large hooks. I bought it figuring if it wouldn't hold the advertised hook sizes, I'd return it under Jann's Netcraft's 30 return policy.

Fortunately, I'm happy to say that won't be necessary. The Atlas holds hooks from dinky 20-22 nymph size to oversize 5/0 3x O'Shaugnessy saltwater hooks just fine if you are careful to position the hooks in the jaws correctly and adjust the collet correctly. The difference in a hook held well and slipping can be a very small adjustment on the collet collar knurled nut. For my normal uses up to size 1/0 the Atlas will be fine, but I like knowing that I can tie very large bucktail striper jigs on it as well. The rotary feature is nice for those big jigs since you're just wrapping a lot of heavy thread or even braid around them. And the ability to lock the vise separately from the tension knob in any position is nice for tying on the bottom or sides of a fly while always having the work directly in front of you without having to peer over or around.

BTW, if you are having trouble keeping the materials clip where you want it on the arm, a 50 cent hose clamp below it solves that. I haven't had that issue but expect to when I get into articulated flies. As for your loose crank handle either teflon tape or pipe dope should take care of that. For that matter some of your super glue or head cement might solve it, too. The Atlas isn't perfect, but I'm pleased with mine for $150. You could pay a lot more for less function (like the Regal Medallion bronze pedetal base that I wanted until sticker shock.)

Enjoyed the review.  I want to upgrade my present vice and I've been comparing this with Peak fishing's rotary vice.

Very helpfoul review

lock tite for the threads -- nail polish remover for the stupid glue.

I have been using the same vise for the past 2 years. It does have the same issues with the jaws. They could do a better job of machining the jaws to get a flush fit. I have placed small shims between the jaws and the collet and this helps in closing the gap between the jaws which make the jaws clamp hook sizes 18 and smaller much better.

I cut small strips about 1/8 inch wide and about 1/4 long and put one on each side and the jaws of the vise between the jaw and collet and bent over the strip over the collet. It does not look pretty but it works. I used the pull top from a peanut or a cashew can. It is aluminum and thin enough to cut with scissors and bend easily. Which Renzetti did you get? I am thinking of getting an HMH vise because it looks like they have a nice set of midge jaws. I tie many flies size 18 to 26 and am thinking of experimenting with another vise. With the aluminum shims in the vice, the Atlas will securely hold a 26 hook. Without the shims, the vice would not hold a 26 hook but would hold a 24 or 22 as long as I put extreme tension on the vice. With the shims, i can get the jaws to close with no gaps and can put less pressure on the clamping lever.

Go back to your Renzetti Traveler

Is it a 3/8" stem?

Do not buy this vise. It is incorrectly machined. The stem has way to much slack to prohibit movement. The C-Clamp is fine, but using the base is horrible as it wobbles a good 3-4mm. If Wolff put another lug in the stem base or machined the stem to be larger or the stem base smaller it would be a great vise. Mine is headed back to the dealer.

I found a better fix for getting the jaws to hold a small hook. Hillman brass finishing washers at Lowes are made for counter sunk screws and are thin and flexible. I used a Dremel tool to widen the hole, then ground off the outer edge since the washer had a larger diameter than the collet in the vise. I took the jaws out of the vise and installed the washer on the neck of the jaw then reassembled the vise. Since the washer is bent for a counter sink and also thin and flexible, it will conform to the shape of the collet and the back of the jaws when you tighten the vise. I am now able to hold sizes to 24 securely. I feel it will now hold sized 28s or 30s but I do not have any at this size to test.

You could probably use a super glue solvent to free up you vise and get it operating properly again.

Thank you for the video, quick question that you may be able to enlighten me on. If you were a euro nympher that only ties size 8-18 hooks for euro nymphs. Would you select this vice or the Renzetti Traveler?

you people need to adjust the screws correctly and your rotary vice will rotate smooth. i had the same issues , but use the tools that came with the vice and take time to find out how it works :)

Thanks for the video. I had my atlas vice for about three years now and tied a wide range of flies on it. I really enjoy the vice and the fact that is a true rotary vice. I like everything about the vice except the part when rotating it isn't the same amount of resistance all the way around. It has a bit of a loose spot going counterclockwise. I don't particularly like it because it doest feel as smooth all the way around. That is my only complain about the vise though.

Good video. Thanks for posting. I own this vise and agree, it’s a great vise for the money. I thought a few of your comments were a bit nit picky for a $150 vise. If you want perfection and a vise that is flawless, you definitely need to spend the $500+ for a high end Renzetti or comparable vise.

Honestly, the biggest complaint I have with this vise is the lack of a bobbin cradle. The other cons you mentioned are not deal breakers IMO.

I’d definitely recommend this vise.

I tie bass and snook flies up to 2/0. Never a problem with the hooks not resting in the groves. Mines an original Anvil made before they were bought out by Wolfe. Nothing better than Anvil scissors and they were always made by Wolfe.

Jaw tips are far too brittle, fine when your bigger hooks are set back into the jaws but smaller hooks set in the tip it's only a matter of time before they break as has happened to many Anvil vice owners myself included. I got rid of mine and would never buy an Anvil again, if you tie smaller than a 14 avoid these Anvil vices like the plague.

100% , same problem annoys me about jaws .. I primarily tie from 1/0 down to 18 .. was even looking for aftermarket .. LAW style jaws or shape ..
rotary function has defiantly picked up some slack both up down and longitudinal ,to the point as with you hard to tighten the shaft .. that I cured with an old style tap washer bored out to give added friction .. the "O" ring fell out a long time ago.
The small "T" studs with the plastic handles .. well they mostly gave up the ghost a while ago , I cured that with bedding new studs spot welded with wire and into a resin cast and rudimentary shaping ..
Material clip ,,, grrr , that I wound some Kevlar tying thread around shaft up near top where you were pointing out ,then placed clip with a couple wraps through the coils .. then superglued .. works fine now, stays put ..

The small handle coming loose is also a hair in butt for me , I used thread locker , not the permanent stuff but easy to remove if necessary with small pliers (Loctite Blue)..

As for moving around , I have and brew my own hard resin tying wax .. so I have plenty cobblers brew and decided to put a dab of softened wax and bedded onto bench .. easy to move off if you need to and re stick by heating /softening wax with lighter and plunking it down ..

As with you , I'd class this as a intermediate /unpretentious entry level rotary , for the workman like types.. good solid rotary vice for the budget minded ..

What are your favourite vices ?

I had to search up solvents for removing superglue, and acetone is recommended. It's a pretty aggressive solvent so use in a well ventilated area. For securing screws there´s a product for that as well, so ask at a hardware store. It's a glue that you add to the screw before you put it back in, and if you want to remove it you can melt it with heat.
But I have a question: If you screw the rotary handle to the opposite side of the vice, wouldn't it balance better? It would take some time getting used to, I guess, you shouldn't need so much force that way.

Hi ....do you still have this vise and currently using it?

I have thus vise but it’s from fly fish food and it’s called JMC pro. The jaws are now somewhat bent I guess. I think I’ll order new ones from the Atlas company. Thanks for the review, I think it’s an ok vise.

Use a soldering iron or heat gun to break the super glue bond

the handle that keeps coming off. Put a dab of clear fingernail polish on the threads then screw it in, that should help.

Watched your review of the Anvil Atlas (now the Wulff Atlas) and thought it pretty well covered the main aspects of the vise. A couple of things; first, the jaw and the straight grooves to hold larger hooks. They're straight because they have to be this way. It's impossible to drill a curved hole in the jaw. With two piece jaws, you could. Not with a one piece. Also, for super gluing your vise shut...were it mine, I'd remove the jaw and apply heat to where to super glue impedes the bolt removal. You don't want to get the jaws too hot,, but if you can remove them, you've got it made. Even if you can't remove the jaw, a judicious application of flame being careful to not de-temper the jaw, turn the broken bolt with pliers when heated, and you should be good to go. I've got the Apex vise and it's a good vise for what it is.