3D Printing Myths I used to believe...

For all of these years now I guess that I've been using the "paper trick" wrong. I had never seen anyone fold the paper and use two layers. I hope that changing my process won't cause things to start to fail. :)

That feeler gauge tip really helped me with tramming my printer, thanks!

Thanks for the feeler gauge tip. The paper has always bothered me. Not even all paper is the same thickness lol.

I adjust my bed by eye while my brim or skirt is printing. I'm crazy like that.

The paper trick is not the best because like he mentioned there can be a lot of variance in how much the paper moves because its a flexible surface that youre leveling. Ive worked as a machinist and CNC programmer for 15 years and I still will use a piece of paper sometimes for touching off tools (you dont really use it for leveling, thats what an indicator or probe is for), but its different because when I touch off an endmill, I can repeat the difference of slight drag and the paper stopping with just a .001 movement in Z, this is because I am touching a carbide tool off a solid table or tombstone so no flex like a printers table. I will use a feeler gauge combined with a dial indicator when leveling my printers. I will make sure Z is right in one spot with the feeler, then use the indicator to make the rest of the table that height. Some may think its more work but I made a small attachment that lets me attach/detach a dial indicator very easily and it is nice because I can see exactly how the bed looks, whether its high or low in some spots or if its warped, and it ends up getting it pretty much as perfect as it can be.

thank you so much the last tip was so helpful i was about to toss it and get a new one

I know 3d printers were a thing pre2000s (my 1st experience was seeing one in my local Library about 2006) but didn't know it only dated back to 1981

ABS is now found to emite some particles bad for the health

The trouble with a feeler gauge is not being able to see when the bed moves if the fit is too tight. If differs from using paper such that you have feel the fit differently. It is more a matter of will the Guage slide under the head with minimal contact. Also, the Guage is generally steel hitting up against brass which at the nozzle point can be a problem.

My problem with the Ender 3 pro is that I went cheap and got the 8 bit version. I have the upgrades for the 32 bit and the part that levels of the bed but I have not plugged them in at all and I have lost them but they are not expensive. I will get upgraded eventually

Lego is ABS plastic. Abs is easy on the Ender 3. But it is ANNOYING with the huge amount of fumes. Pla is nice but PETG is better in every aspect

PLA absorbs. Moisture just like Silica Gel and if you leave the roll uncovered it will be very difficult to print because it will warp and become brittle.

I'm so happy that a lot of people followed this trend with no end goal, because there is now a huge market of pre owned 3d printers that are gathering dust, have been used twice, and sold at less than half their retail price. With 8 kg of PLA that is not even open.

Dont use a folded peice of paper. The depth of a single sheet of paper is the perfect amout to get the bed leveled. I have never heard to fold the paper

I zero the print nozzle by light gap. No light gap = zero. Then I set the first layer to .15.

Mind blown with the bed leveling thing…

I use to believe in atheism, but now I am a Christian. Started 3d printing at the same time.

5.03 just an FYI the hook test isn't a good metric for how hard or tough something is. the more you know.

lol, the paper was supposed to be folded!!?

How thick is the Feeler Gauge 0.1mm? My Print wont stick to the Bed, I have laveling the bed 100 times even tested Glue. Nothing sticks

Bed Leveling - after watching a few YT videos I was able to understand a successful procedure . This is what works for me 100% of the time;
1. I Home the Z axis , disengage the stepper motors then I use the standard piece of on each of the 4 corners
2. repeat step 1 at least 1 time
3. I then print a Test print that puts a line of filament 1 inch on the outside perimeter of the bed sheet 3 times just touching each one as it passes beside the previous line
4. I manually fine adjust the adjusting wheels as the print proceeds until the correct "squish" is obtained
If the squish is too great the color printed will become transparent
if the squish is insufficient then the line will be a thin line that doesn't stick well
if the squish is perfect it will appear as a solid flattened layer that is well connected to the following line
5. I restart this test print until my adjustments are perfect
6. THEN I CLEAN THE BED WITH ALCOHOL AND PAPER TOWELS before every print
My prints at 100% speed are near perfect on an old Ender 3 Pro that I was gifted. Once in a while I do a test print with the fine tuning. If I try to speed up the prints I get defects. If you need more speed , save up your money and buy a Bamboo P1P.

Just got into 3D printing recently and this video has been a massive help. Thank you.

I use an Alpha Black Lotus to level my print bed.

in fact, additive manufacturing is similar to the way microchips are made since the 1970's

You really like clickbait

whats bro gonna do with that my little pony💀

Please let me know how to use Lidar bed leveling

THATS Funny i used that tool for my moped.
Contactpounts.
Always works .
Yes thanks.
I have this.
Long live Puch maxi

Might sound crazy but to level my print bed I just eyeball it and get good layers

This may sound ridiculous, but I have 2 lights set up, one behind the printer and one to my right. As long as you know what you are looking for you can level the bed by looking at the reveal between the nozzle and the bed. I haven’t used a slip of paper/etc in a month or 2 now. This works of course while a print is running, but a little more difficult with no filament being extruded.

I bought a set of feeler gauges when I bought my first printer. The reason I did that was because I'd watched so many people using an unknown grade of paper to "level". As there has been a tool whose thickness is known and precise, forever, I used it instead from the get-go like most engineers.

I hate auto level measurements on screen... Does my head in 😅 I know I'm never getting that zeroed out

Neptune 2 is all I've ever known. Had it since release and only just waiting for my first upgrade to arrive (all metal microswiss hotend).

That fact about small soldiers is so cool

I'm glad my printer has an auto leveling feature. Doing it manually seems like a pain. I've never had a print with a bad first layer.

Dude I know you got successful but check yourself. You starting to sound like a well actually guy 😂

ye you use a folded paper thats why

Mate, even if the video is from some time ago, I still hope to see the last myth in an extra video, explaining the metal gauge first layer thing in more of a detail. If you already did so, maybe you want to have it linked somewhere? Thanks. Keep on printing!

The Small Soldiers prints just blew my mind.

Never would have thought of the feeler gauge. Im going to try that and see what happens

Did you just call me a neophyte?

...hmm, honestly you never bothered to look up material properties of ABS and PLA?

for me the bed leveling works great with just a peace of paper but not folded, and it prints perfect layers without any elephantfoot or other stupid things

What size feeler gauge do i need to get?

You fold the paper?

I just dont like how pla wilts when its left in the car

you lost me after you started going on about the history of 3d printing

Copolymer is to plastic as alloy is to metal. I as just corrected while I was doing grad degree stuff and wanted to pay the knowledge forward.

I level the bed using Octoprint and the bed visualizer. The Z-Offset never changes if you have a leveling probe. I simply run the visualizer, look at the 3D map, and make small adjustments and rerun the visualizer. I repeat this until my total variance across all probe points is less than half the nozzle size (under .2 for a .4 nozzle). At that point the bed will be almost entirely green in the visual mapper.