What Surfing Is ACTUALLY Like as a Beginner

just stop surfing.

If you're going to surf in such shallow conditions, I would begin with a boogie board. You can stand in waist deep water where the waves are breaking, or even in a little further, then push yourself onto the wave and ride it. I doubt you will be able to stand up because the board and waves are so small, but you will be "surfing" the wave. You can do it with a large foamie like yours, but it's more awkward with such a big board because you'd be jumping on from the side. Just ride the wave in on your stomach and feel what it's like to plane along the surface of the wave. That is surfing.
Of course when go out to bigger waves and in a depth where you can't touch bottom, you'll have to paddle into the waves, so you'll have to develop a good stroke. A good crawl stroke will do. You have to learn to read the waves and where they stand up and break, but you should have learned that from boogie boarding.
Your teacher should have gone over where to position yourself on the board. You were too far forward on the one where you dug the nose. Most beginners, however, lie too far back and create a lot of drag on the tail, and the wave passes underneath them. You need to have the board be as flat as possible in the water, which usually means the nose is maybe just one or two inches out of the water. You will be able to go faster. When you see a wave that looks like it's going to stand up and break where you are, line yourself up on the board (use a marker or line yourself up with logo to make sure you're not too far forward or back) and paddle for it.
There's a whole lot of crap on the internet on how to paddle, but if you have a decent crawl,, that's good enough. As far as special techniques, just do what's comfortable for you. Doesn't have to be extra long or extra deep, but something you can do rhythmically and comfortably for a good 10-15 strokes or so at a time. You might need two or three easy strokes to go laterally across the waves, another three or four to get into position either outside or inside, then another three or four or five strokes of vigorous paddling to actually catch the wave. If it looks like you're going to have to work harder than that, than don't bother and look for the next wave. You can't catch them all and you'll tire yourself out chasing them if you try for everything that comes near (plus you'll p-ss off other surfers who ARE in proper position for the wave already. Nothing worse than a newbie dropping in on your wave).
And when your arms and shoulders are so tired you can't keep a rhythm out there, it's time to quit. You'll never get your energy back for that session, and you risk injury, especially to your shoulders. A torn or worn-out rotator cuff is extremely common among surfers.
When you catch the wave, you'll feel the board planing like on the boogie board. Then do a push up and hop up to your feet ASAP, aligning your feet along the centerline of the board You can do the knee thing if you want, but it's not necessary. I used a one-knee pushup style for about a day, then someone told me to just hop up all the way, and it was easy. You'll fall the first few times, but your sense of balance and your agility are much better when you stand up all the way. Even if you're a bit off on your popup, it's easy to correct. Since the board is planing, it will be stable enough for you to catch your balance and adjust your feet to the centerline.
I boogie boarded for decades before taking up surfing at age 51. I'm 66 now and surf 4-6 footers easily on a 8'9" longboard. Never had a lesson in my life.

What’s up dog?

I have been surfing for 6 years and after all that time of practice almost every day I am able to get barrled and do airs you will just have to practice a lot but you could get there.

As I watch point break… u lost me at the knees good luck on ya surfing tho

Great video!

That teacher is terrible

Is it easier to learn if a good snowboarder?

Sus instructor

Had an aparment with a rooftop on Pacific Ave, near Venice intersection. That was an easy setup trip to the beach with my board after a hard day's of work. I experienced some of the best sunsets of my life on the water while waiting for a wave in Venice Beach :) had many cool personal experiences with dolphins too.

Thanks

i did this yesterday the waves were big
ima kid it was so fun

waiting for waves is apart of the experience no necessarily a con in my opinion. no fun if theres no calm in the experience, it only adds to the fun!

Sorry to tell you but you got the worst instructor you could've gotten, teaching you to go on your knees???????

I just tried surfing in Waikiki. The thing that hit me hardest was paddling back out to catch another wave. I was not prepared for that arm workout.

I think surfing is a lot different than what most expect. I am a beginner myself and am dealing with a lot of stuff that feel like turn offs. Like i went to France hoping there 'd be cleaner waves ideal for beginners. Here in Belgium it's often storm surf. But once arriving in France there were huge sets coming in and so huge waves you try to take. It's scary as hell and best not try this without some good surfer buddies. It's a lot of fun traveling with others, sharing the ocean and talking about it as you wait for waves.
To me the biggest turn off is the raw fear you have to combat if you mostly have storm waves to deal with or often huge surf. It doesn't come as you want it and it makes me appreciate smaller days when you actually have time to think things thru and execute.

Do not listen to surf instructures they are crap just lay on the board so it feels comfortable for you and lay up on the board a bit it dosent matter where your feet are just if you can paddle properly the instructors are kooks

left out so much stuff. didn't even mention how surprisingly and incredibly exhausting it is for a while, like seriously you'll be out of breath constantly. they were all sitting on the boards but it took me a while to be able to do that steadily.

Let’s go man!

Using the knees for popup create a bad habit :/

The ocean was flat in this video! ... but on a regular day with bigger waves one thing a beginner well probably have a hard time with is getting past the breakers and white-water. It can really beat you up on big days.

I have to say this teacher says the direct opposite from what I learned. First of all don’t use your knees. We had on women in the surf camp that learned it like that and is struggling with it ever since. Second point is that if you don’t pop up, you should put your back foot first since it gives you stability while the front foot in the middle makes the board shaky and hard to not fall

I wish I could surf regularly but my state barely has good beaches with waves

don't pop up on your knees please

i started on a fun board and didn't even struggle as bad as you. but hey we all start somewhere. I find it funny how you and your friends were having trouble catching waves On a foam board in cali surf. I surf in florida and the waves are weak you have to paddle so hard and just pop up when the face hits to get the wave. I wish i learned in cali. also paddling out in florida surf sucks because short period waves.

Edit: pros and cons to learning in Florida
Pros
1. Warm water only in the dead of winter I wear a suit and I use a 2mm suit and that's mostly from wind chill.
2. If you learn on Florida waves you can catch any wave in the world.
3. when the surf is good its GREAT (reef road during offshore hurricanes)

cons
1. Weak waves and very inconsistent
2. murky water (north east FL)
3. summer waves suck

those waves are so small you get like 1 to 3 seconds on the wave

Sorry to say, but she totally taught you the Poo Stance right off the bat. That's a very bad habit to break. =/

Y’all got to watch your position on the board when you are paddling into a wave bc if you are to far up you will nose dive so to avoid that you stay with your feet just barely hanging off the board

Cool board.... I had the same one.... 🤙

I'm actually ten and i just started to learn surfing, There are some great places in bali like berawa and batu bolong. Come to bali if you want some great waves! i didn't just start i'd say i'm not a begginer i know how to do alot of stuff

How do you pick the right board?

Bro take the shorts off and put on the wetsuit. Shorts in a wetsuit is no bueno.

I’ve just tried surf last week in Bali… it was super difficult. Even getting myself with a board, itself already got me so tired🤣
You are very honest!
Hope all the new begginers watch your video first before heading to the ocean!

Don’t pop to your knees
Bad!!!!!!!

So I started surf lessons a day ago and there Was SO much waves it was very fun and It was in margate beach 9:00 am

No knees.. if you have a traction pad, use your toes to bring your body up in one motion. if you're goofy, use your left foot to press on the pad while you're pushing up. Another thing, don't push up from the rails. Use the middle of the board. It's possible to learn it the way you're teaching, but i agree with some of these comments. It's a bad habit that will develop and be hard to break

looks like you might be to far up on the board

I remember using those small boards for smaller waves when i was at a beach and caught a few that brought me from like 20ft out back to the beach, might have to start actual surfing.

Reuben Pfeffer

So it's been two years. Are you still surfing?

thanks travis!!

Mans had the most cooky pop up

How deep is the water you practice in?

Never thought I would see the Amazon FBA guy making surfing videos

Great film thanks

Come to Nicaragua to surf! U rent a place near by the beach for a decent price and you don’t need a swim suit!

Just getting to the parking space and then carrying your shit to the beach....my life rn 😂😂😂

I'm 25 from the Inland empire and everytime I went to the beach growing up I always dreamed of surfing or learning to surf, my brother got a board as a gift and I was jealous and he never used it, so I knew I'd have a board until my parents sold it cause he wasn't using it😔 now I'm an adult and I still dream of riding those waves.

I surf sometimes but I know that put your feet closer than what she showed you in the beginning. Also don’t pop up to your knees.