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I like your hack, but I'll raise you one. See if you like this one. Forget the factory fence. Use only the mitergauge, but with an added on, extended fence. It's made of 3" X 3/4 " straight stock, hardwood or baltic plywood, about 24" to 30" long and attached to the right about 6" to 8" from the blade. You first make a kerf in the fence at that point which become your reference for all your cuts, because it's visible! Then, for short lengths you clamp stop on the right side where ever, and run your pieces which are pushed past the blade as they stackup. Perfeectly safe from twisting and jammimg between the factory fence, since it's way over to the far right. Make sense?
ОтветитьYou are amazing. Easy, logical, low tech. Thanks again!
To the funny carpenter. get two stick tape from Golfworks. It's strong and leaves no residue.
Thanx
ОтветитьI'm surprised at the idea that measuring, or remembering the off set is somehow an issue. Wood work is all about measuring, and to set yr fence (or stop block) at a given accurate measurement from the blade is a basic skill. In spite of the idea you don't need to measure because the table saw has a indiced rip fence (I've never used one that has), by the addition later of a microadjuster shows that measuring is required. I think this is a great alternative, but I don't think it is better than the L block or other spacers, particularly not for the reasons given in the video. As for the comments about tear out, this is prevented by having a sacrificial piece of wood across your mitre gauge allows you to push the cut off past the blade (eliminates kickback) and prevents tearout.
ОтветитьPerfect using a magnetic clamp!
ОтветитьInstead of tape, why not recess a magnet into your block?
ОтветитьFor a cut like that why not use a cross cut sled?
ОтветитьForstner holes in the underside corners and glue rare earth magnets. No tape and store it on any metal surface
ОтветитьDelta Unifence
ОтветитьSimple but useful, and a whole lot safer. What's not to like? BTW, looking at your clamp handle made me think of Rob Cosman's hockey tape trick.
Ответитьway too many what doesnt work , the fence has never caught a piece and spun it back. its not if but when???? waste of time use the fence thats literally what its designed for
ОтветитьNice tip, thanks
ОтветитьFucking.......brilliant. I absolutely love simple, elegant solutions like this. Thank you!
ОтветитьSimple but effective dig your tips. Thanks for sharing
ОтветитьSimple and yet very effective! Thank you. 👍
ОтветитьIf you installed a couple of strong magnets on the bottom of the block, you could do away with the tape.
ОтветитьSimple, yet, very handy tricky! Very nice. Just got my first ever table saw and made a cut using the fence and miter jig. I cut a piece for testing that was around 2 inches. It was indeed bouncing back and forth between the blade and the fence. Luck I had those blade guards (with acrilic top and etc..)
Ответитьwhat really mind blow me is that the way you use double sided tape 🤣 which is great btw
I mean I usually tear the length that I need and then peel the backing off. BUT THIS, applying the adhesive but WITHOUT tearing is really new to me, thanks man! 😊👍
This perfectly highlights the difference between intellectual people and smart people. Not intended as an insult to either type, but they're not the same.
ОтветитьBRILLIANT! 😁
ОтветитьGreat tip~!! Thanks~!
Ответить3/4 inch(your first example) is more than enough to prevent kickback for anything shorter than length of the blade above the table (like in your narrow ply) if you start thinking about forces that the blade applies to a piece. When you cut the blade applies down pressure and push away side pressure on the piece. Once the piece is no longer supported (cut off) the blade will push the piece away because it is the path of less resistance. The only way when a kickback can happen is when the piece touches backside of the blade (lifting up) without ability to move sidewise (supported by the fence) thus the path of less resistance will be towards to you.
Also when you cut something wider than blade it is very awkward to use the miter. There are better and safer ways
Brilliant!
ОтветитьAvoid the double sided tape and make a small square with magnets inside that can lever up or down to unlock/lock the square in place. Similar to what machinists often use for like movable lighting and such. Keep the screw for adjustability. Neat
ОтветитьMaking up problems that don’t exist so you can make a video
ОтветитьIngenious. But why not countersink a Neodymium magnet into the bottom face and let anchor your wood block as well?
ОтветитьMuito bom, obrigado! Abraço (Robertson- Brasil).
ОтветитьWhat kind of tape are you using and where do you find it?
ОтветитьI just cut over 200 small pieces using your method with double sided tape worked great only change tape twice
ОтветитьGood stuff. I would say get a larger strong magnet (whatever the use for featherboards) and stick that in their to replace the tape.
Ответитьso wonderfully simple
ОтветитьGreat tip!
ОтветитьGood god. This video was nearly incomprehensible. There are far simpler methods for accomplishing the same thing.
ОтветитьSimple is good!😅
ОтветитьI find using the second example with a larger L block much faster than your tip but that's just me. Good video, straight to the point without a lot of b.s.
ОтветитьJust what I need👍
ОтветитьEliminate the fence, forget the blocks and jigs. Scribe a reference line on the table top and or the blade guard that indicates the cut line of the blade’s exact cut line. A knife line or a sharp pencil mark on your workpiece is placed at the previous scribed line. Works for me.🇨🇦👍👨🦳
ОтветитьBrilliant.
ОтветитьDid not tell them to always use the crown guard when operating the saw
ОтветитьDang, another brilliant tip I haven't seen anywhere else!
ОтветитьThe double sided tape method is brilliant. Thank you !!
ОтветитьThat's a great idea but I'd put the screw towards the other end. So you could make two size with one block.
ОтветитьGreat presentation of a great tip.
Tom Byrne
Handier than sleeves in a vest
ОтветитьLove the action movement on your fence. What table do you have.
ОтветитьAnd no mention of the fact that it is dangerous to stand in line with the blade when sawing.
ОтветитьFor multi repetitive cuts, the sled is the only way to go. Just a few pieces a simple123 block works great. Exactly 1"
Ответитьgreat tip, but the best part of the video was showing the way you left the backing on the double sided tape for easy removal. A "duh" moment, indeed. Thanks,
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