The Best and Worst Hobby Tools for Warhammer

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I actually use 6mm hematite beads as agitators. They are by far cheaper, and no chance of rusting.

I 3D printed my wet pallet and i use it with kitchen papertowels. Nothing fancy and works great. Also i printed painting handles, different designs and quality, but all works.

About brushes, i had never bought real expensive brushes. Just the cheap ones and mostly works fine. I take care of them of course, keep them dry an clean all the time.

want to say: take a look at the armypainter wetpalette, it also comes with a transportation thing, maybe it will help you like it was helping me :D
but well...only if you still didnt saw it, i mean, the video is 1 year old xD

i didnt think it was possible to mess up with AP spray primer. ive used it in the rain and freezing temperatures (even forgetting to shake it once) and have never had any issues or imperfections with it.

Loved this video, thanks!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the decal placement liquid could maybe substituted with windex. Works great way for placing lego stickers, but I dunno if it'd work for warhammer decals.

I have seen in your many of your videos that you do not really care for Army Painter paints. They are coming out with a new line in January that is supposed to address a lot of customer complaints. I hope to see a review of them from you.

For airbrushes, I have no idea how you ended up with a decent cheap one. I tried like 10 under 30€ models over the last 2 years. These were mediocre bad quality un-cleanable nightmares to use. The moment I got 2 Harder & Steenbeck models (cheapest of the range for varnish and primer) and the magnificent Intinity expensive one with all needle sizes, etc. Airbrushing became fun and easy. If I have one single advice to give to all newcommers to the Hobby - Do not buy an airbrush for anything else than primer and finish unless you can burn 400€ on it (compressor included). If not, this is gonna be the worst investment ever because either you won't use it because it sucks, or break it really quickly trying to get it work properly or cleaning it. And now the irony - when you actually get skilled with an airbrush, you can start using low quality ones because your skill compensates parts of the malfunctions... - I call this the "pro tools paradox".

I use a bunch of oil paints and acrylic artist paints and micron pens but i am an artist and illustrator so i can use them for my job and hobbyin😂 great video amigo

Nice video and agree on army painter except for the black, it’s absolute for one purpose only, base borders best black for this job

Why does everyone say bad about Army Painter? I've never had a problem with them, outside of a bad bottle every so often (though the company itself was fine with replacing.)

Anyone else expected the `And now for the sponsor of this video...` piece to end with Army Painter? I was so ready to chortle.

Made it to the end! Thank you for making this. Must have been a boring one for you, BUT, really helps us plebs. You’re a gem ❤️

why does everyone hate army painter? its the only paint in c tier seriously? lol dammit!

Micron is neat for doing text!

Also neat, you say Vallejo right haha, most people miss the "B" sound at the start.

To me the 3D printer was the best S tier by far x)

Since i have it i can play/paint any army i want witouth having to pay tons of money all that to see after a few weeks that i don't like painting those models or whatnot it's game changer.

You watch mma guru video's or he watches yours.

this just reafirms my personal belief, if it has Vallejo on it then you really cant go wrong, used their products for about 20 years both with normal model kits and now with minitures and yeah really cant fault them (except their model air white that stuff is dogsht)

Micro Sol/Micro Set is S tier for me. Absolute game changer for transfers.

How wierd, AP black Primer is the only spray I can use and get a nice finish.

How do you get sponsored to receive stuff to up your game and rep the brand

I agree about corax white being grainy & army painter sprays.

why do pro painters like matt finish i absolutly hate it makes my colors so dull

No Monument Hobbies paint?

Have to disagree with the Army Painter spray. The cans ARE terrible and the nozzle clogs easily - but I use Wolf Grey for my spacewolves and if I get the weather right (I live in Central Australia so it is often 38-40 degrees) the results on the minis are excellent!

*I find army painter washes to be superior and their paints have gotten, better, so for me they are just under vallejo, but above citadel.

You didnt do paint strippers!

I agree with you on the artist opus dry brushes. They aren't crap but they are they are distinctly average with a premium price tag.

I have to say army painter air range is great for brush paint straight out the bottle and knowing how contrast 1.0 works I actually like using them over gw . I always cheer for the underdog and using a varnish to then layer isn't a big deal . This list is still super helpful and definitely helps a beginner like me to know how to make sense of such a busy market

I agree with army painter paints but a lot of people seem to hold them in the highest esteem. Just wish I could get Vallejo near me rather than online

I didn't see you review the GW model painting handles; are they that bad?

Great video. Can you make a video on how to do a LARGER transfer. I've mastered the shoulder pad ones..but the big ones *always" fold up or rip or just look like a pile of crap ....maximum frustration

Just wanted mention that a better plastic cement is Mr Cement SP; this one is hotter Tamiya but leave the glued parts for 48 hours or more and you will have a really rock solid bond. Those on a budget who prefer Tamiya just buy Tamiya's air brush cleaner it's basically the same as the cement.

Other tool which should be up there along with tweezers is Micro Stix (green or blue depending on the task).

you failed to mention that Micron pens are good for eyes and writing on purity seals

I like the matte primer it reminds me of the OLD Citadel Chaos Black Spray

citadel paints suck balls.. tier Z.. expensive, overrated... bolox ....even tamiya is better. AK, Valleho and Abteilung oils... don't thank me, enjoy

Army Painter is the definition of "you get what you pay for" - they are workable, some even very good but overall they are difficult to work with - only when you can comfortably get near-perfect dilution with every color (and that's different almost every time, but thankfully after 4 years with them I can do it) they are almost ON PAR with other brands. I do like Speedpaints 2.0 a lot though, they are great for what they are intended for - and the result can still be improved with detailing, filtering, glazes etc. If regular AP would be 2 stars - APQP2.0 is 4 starts for sure, especially for us with "adult stuff" taking most of our hobby time.

I am not sure that it was the Humbrol Clear Gloss that screwed you with the oil wash. Humbrol is a popular brand for scale modeling and they use oil and enamel products all the time. I think the real culprit in the oil wash failure was time. You let it dry too much before trying to wipe it up. You said yourself that all you did before you went to bed went fine. I know from experience that you can't activate oils forever. They do eventually dry and become essentially permanent. You have to balance the time you key them sit before removal.

I was really disappointed with Scale 75 paints.

Would sticky-tapeing some white paper over your lamp help with diffusion?

If anyone needs a solid cheap white, if you got a Micheals arts and crafts store check out their white. It's like a dollar or 1.19 now or something for the basic paints, their white has excellent covering and isn't too thick, used it for awhile on my minis eyes and it's pretty solid. Even right over black it only took two coats, and the first one was still pretty white just a little variation. Haven't tried mixing it much myself though with others, can't comment there. For bone colored near whites, folk art are like 1.49 per bottle and generally those are all pretty solid, except their pale yellow/sand colored ones, those have issues needing a good yellow or tan pre coat. Well,not the best but they are often a fraction the cost of "proper" mini paints, yet still just as good for 90% of your painting work. Can recomend for new people to the hobby or people wanting to test different color schemes or ideas, or painting big custom vehicle kit bashes with lots of area. It's just so cheap to grab a few new colors that you might not even use much in the future. And $2-5 for a giant bottle of metalic paint that can cover an entire army of tanks... ya, the craftsman brand metallics aren't the best, but a solid base coat for vehicles and stuff (I have orks, so I like basecoating in metallic then painting hte paint over it).

Like you can't 3D print an entire WH40K army ;)

Late to comment… try Krylon Camouflage rattle cans. Ultra flat. Started using them on model railroad craftsman kits and now moving over to miniature priming.

I want to thank the sponsor of this video, Army Painter :D

I buy GW paint cuz the local store sells that!

Well, i wish i saw this video sooner, just bought army painter primerii 😅 I've used it before and the results were a bit uneven, sometimes it was good sometimes it was very grainy. I thought I was just spraying In wrong angles or something to cause the grainyness.

Dude Thank you - Thank You - for being so real - So honest with your opinions. - I value them immensely ❤

I'm looking for gloss on my models right now.. No idea what you are talking about with the Army Painter comment. They are perfectly matte