Small Batch CNC Turning for the Fab Shop

Is he telling us that after all the holes he has ever drilled, he never realized he could leave a chamfer with the spot drill?

Does this machine definitely perform rigid tapping. If it does not then the feed is usually a little slower and the floating tap holder takes up the difference. If this is the case then perhaps the floating tap holder ran out of travel.

Hello Adam, I believe that one of the advantages of ridged tapping is that you can run the tap in part way, run it back out and and run it back in again repeatedly without losing axial alignment. Not something that can be done with a floating tap holder. This allows tapping of deep holes and tapping of difficult materials. I would check with your experts first as I haven't personally had the opportunity to do rigid tapping myself.

I just ordered a set of 2mm end mills, solid carbide and had them deliver to your Delano St address. It's up to you to determine the speeds and mount them properly. I will require 10 each 0.1 inch thick, 2mm center drilled, non rusting material and hard as steel in diameters 2 inch, 1.75 inch, 1.5 inch, 1.25 inch and 1.0 inch. You may put these into one of those wet stone vibrating tubs to burnish sharp edges off and polish a bit. Enjoy this training session.

When you get the tools, please notify me or show the video on yt while you make them.

Thanks Adam, only issue is Ms. Abbey did not make an appearance. You guys are so impressive. Those smiles are contagious! You got this CNC stuff. Thank you

Question, Why is it so important to you to run your machines at 100% ? some jobs you get a far better product if you machine it at a slower speed especially when it comes to threads.

45 years in the trade------I ALWAYS use scrap aluminum to "prove in " Questionable programs --------IT WILL SAVE TIME/MONEY AND *****PRIDE

Adam old buddy can i have your mattews or the Victor which ever doesnt matter. Nice work adam. Thanks

Tapping fluid instead of coolant might work? A tension compression tap holder with a clutch tap adaptor for safety? You can slow the tap feed and keep the RPM the same to slightly extend the holder on the in feed if need be. Is it possible that the lathe doesn't have rigid tap?

So Adam, help me out with the business end of this. Not including cost of CNC, but adding tooling for this job, how many pieces must you produce to break even? Thanks

Hi Adam, this is Michael from Argo Machine Tools inc. in Montreal since 1948. My heart goes out to you in realizing that there are issues ridged tapping on your lathe. I have a slew of CNC lathes and ridged tapping has never been an issue. I have been so happy to get away from floating tapping holders since I have unloaded all my screw machines. I am not offering you any suggestions however sometimes using a 3 jaw chuck as opposed to a collet chuck ( which is much lighter ) can sometimes create a snyc issue when reversing during a tapping cycle. I am not at all familiar with the supplier of your lathe but it still should not be an issue. On your video even the drilling sounded sketchy and once I heard that I did not have much hope for your tap. In my humble opinion if you wanted to stay USA made ( and I agree ) next time think HAAS. This is what I personally run despite all the negative feedback you have heard over the years. All the best Adam. I even watch your BBQ shows.

Adam, MrNcornish is right, without a floating tap holder, no tapping is possible on a CNC lathe. Also, there is little specificity in the program. That's assuming you have a floating tap holder.
With G32, the pitch of the thread that you set with F should be a few hundredths smaller.
For example: I am from Europe and I work on metric system so, for an M3 thread, the pitch of the thread is 0.5mm, you must set F to 0.49mm or 0.48mm. The smaller pitch of Z is compensated by the holder.

For taping slow the spindle speed way down?

Use a floating holder for the tap. You still might have problems with chips getting in front of the tap. I'd use a roll tap and some good tapping oil instead of coolant.

Did you really think the toolholders weren't concentric on the turret?

It appears that tap broke right when the spindle stopped then reversed.

Adam, as far as I know you cannot rigid tap on a lathe. (although I stand to be corrected buy any of your viewers)You will definitely need a floating collet holder. Where I work we have two Mazaks and an XYZ lathe, they all require a floating collet holder to tap. On a milling machine the spindle is fitted with an encoder to ensure the RPM is deceleration is synchronized with the Z axis movement. This does not happen on a lathe. Also because of the size of the chuck even a 6" chuck there is a lot of inertia so it will not stop in a controlled way like a milling machine spindle. If you buy a floating collet you should have no further problems. Keep up the good content, keep learning. I enjoy your video's here in the UK.

I don't know anything about this other than viewing your videos for years. Could you program the tap operation to go in 2 or 3 steps instead of one deep pass?

My opinion caliper + screwbolt enough good for measuring the thread depth. You dont need extra piece to prove it.

Dude, stop eating cheeseburgers! You are out of breath just talking.

I'm pretty sure there was a stringy chip on the tap before it went into the work piece. Took a second look. Chip was on the 5/16 drill bit.

Mr. Booth if you tap in CNC machine , please reduce your RPM to that amount that you use with your Flexarm.

Are you using new video equipment? The vids look noticeably brighter and sharper

A very interesting video. I have learned as much from failures like this as from successes. A stop to add a dab of Anchor Lube in the hole and on the tap would have eliminated that breakage. Spray coolant doesn’t have enough lubricity for horizontal tapping.

The channel is now a continuous stream of product placement - it makes it very tiring to watch - It's like "I just checked the time on my Sekonda watch, and remembered I needed to take my Stanley key, to open my Yale lock so I could go indoors through my Jewsons front door, walk across the Marley tiles and sit in my hygena kitchen. A little product placement and sponsorship works, but you hit us with it continuously nowadays.

❤ I like watching you trying to learn something new even though I do miss some of the old school jobs.

The tap broke because the rpms were to high. There are charts from the tap brand which show you the max. rpm / material / tap size

Good job Adam

I'd love to see that piece split open with an angle grinder so we can see how well the thread was cut. If the pitch wasn't right I'd expect to see deformed threads.

RPM was way to high for the tapping process and with a thread that deep with a fairly small size tap I would go with a peck tapping cycle and take probably 4 pecks to get that deep.

Is it possible for parting, that there is a slight angle on the tool so that the part finishes first. This can prevent later finishing the part.
For the ridged tapping, the machine works with steps, very small ones. The first threads go because of the flex in the material,with more threads the material won’t flex enough and the tool breaks.

Far too much talking
How about more machining instead

If you are trying to teach us then what about starting a teaching channel

To me 1018 is not a good tapping material. Need a good threading medium.

Looks like head speed was far to fast for the type of tap used.

Good day! Some points to improve the process. Use a metal net with magnets to capture the details. This will protect the CNC and the surface of the parts. Go slowly with the last part of fine-cut, after that change tools and stop the program by using a workpiece limiter such as a drill. Then finish the program and begin the next cycle.

form tap it and use the largest carbide drill you can while keeping the minor diameter in spec for the thread fit. no need for anchor lube if your coolant concentration is high enough. I run at 10% on the mill and have had zero failures form tapping 304

It's only a failure I'd you don't learn anything.

If you want to have another go at tapping in the lathe I would suggest a few things. Quickest and cheepest drill out for a 65% thread rather than a 75%. Way less torque needed to make the thread with almost all of the strength of the 75%. Next step up is try using a form tap. Way bigger stronger core of the tool and no chip problems since your forming the threads check the drill size though because its probably not on the chart. The threads are also stronger since the grain structure of the metal is deformed and hardened slightly during the tapping process. Most expensive option use the form tap with a Tapmatic Syncroflex II tool holder. If you find that the problem is the dwell at the bottom when the chuck needs to change direction a syncro holder will help reduce the shock the the tap feels.

Deja vu on this item… didn't I mention it was a poor design at the time?

On the new part, if it's possible to drill all the way through with the 3/8, then you eliminate the nub cleanup and manually cleanup the sharp edge.

Machine Coolant sucks for taping, optional stop and anchor lube, and run a lower speed

Does milltronics use canned cycles. I dont know if fusion posts canned cycles. if the lathe is conversational maybe try using that to program the tap. I agree that a floating holder iis probably needed for that machine.