Trad climbing cam chat part 2: How to place cams / friends #climbing

Thoughts on totems being less good as they go up in size?

You'd love Arapiles here in Australia

Helpful as always!

Hey jez love the videos do you have a video about teaching lead belaying?

Always worth thinking about the life of the cams when buying them too. In 10 years time my DMM Dragons will go back to DMM who will service the cam and replace the slings for a reasonable cost. By comparison Wild Country won't offer this service and now say that you need to bin them after 10 years. Not sure where BD, Totem or others stand on this, but worth checking out!

From Australia. Yes i do.

Apparently there is a new cam on the market which covers the range of a bd .75 to 4 ( the Angel from alternativ current in Italy). Have you seen or tried it?

Your comment on the totems & walking mirror my experience as well. Dunno if it's the lobe shape, the different trigger wires and/or the bendier stem, but final result is: they don't walk much. I am significantly less likely to extend a totem cam than most others I own for that reason.

Id be curious about your thought ranking different rock types in terms of protectability. sandstone v granite, splitters vs traverses etc.

Have you got any experience with Rock empire cams? They're cheaper than dmm, bd or wild country and seems to have a pretty good reviews. Any advice in that case?

Amazing place to climb and great video good advice

Nathan

Hi jez, your videos have been very helpful for me getting back into trad. Could you do a video on rope soloing in emergencies just using gear you'd have on your harness? Thanks

Is it Will Stanhope snapping the flake on Parthian Shot you're thinking of? He used a cam but I'm not sure he was the only one to.