NEVER Use This High Current DC Circuit Breaker For Solar, Auto, or Marine!

I hate this tipe of "protection". But i say that they have a bad reputation because 95% are Amazon -china garbage. But they are also hygh quality.

For the battery with 12 cycles that work good, its the minimum. My AGM s now have 1000 cycle of 30% dod average nad maybe 15 80%dod cycles and 100 60%dod. They work perfectly. Give me 94% of original capacity C20.

A tubular plate heavy traction lead acid make more than 2000 cycles at 100%dod. A lifepo4, is drain real 100%, dienin one or few times.

This is another great reason to not support slavery and chinese counterfeit products. The non counterfeit versions of these exact circuit breakers work just fine, they are made by MP (Mechanical Products Company, Made in the U.S.A.), Bussman (Buss), Eaton, etc..

Please note that Blue Sea Systems doesn't manufacture circuit breakers, they just slap their name on the ones mentioned above and quadruple the price.

Also your ring terminals are way too thin, they look like more chinese slave-labor junk, that doesn't help with delivering high currents efficiently.

It also seems like people are being gouged on the cost of all of this stuff, perhaps people could use better suppliers such as Waytek and Polar Wire.

I use fuses at currents greater than 50A DC it's more reliable than this

Fantastic video, ty for doing this test, those things have death written all over them. Will buy full sized Schneider or victron breakers.

Chinese government: “we’re gonna take over the world and remove the USA!!!”

Americans: “bro, we literally have thousands of people dedicated to making videos about taking apart your horribly built non reliable equipment, are you gonna use USA and German made stuff in your adventure to take over the world?”….

Just another cheap knock off.

I'd recommend against that Mini ANL fuse holder... very cheap and the plastic will just melt under load, leaving exposed metal that still hasn't broken apart... very dangerous.

Hey can you do a similar breakdown on a couple other brands like T Tocas ?

I'm sure you know much more about this than I do, and I know these breakers are junk (generally speaking) but using a brass bus bar as you are, instead of copper, creates electrical resistance (more resistance and therefore heat, than if it were pure copper). Doesn't it? Of course the breaker parts also are brass and steel also, so it probably makes no (or little) difference.

So, is anyone surprised that Chinese products don't operate anywhere near to spec.
Great teardown. I always work off the premise, of 50% max., for any sizing of products. Would be interesting to see a comparison, between the good makes: bet they don't use brass, for conductivity.
I've also bought non-insulated crimp terminals, from Amazon, that were Chinese. Guess what: they weren't plated copper, either. Plated brass; at best, with a low %, of copper. I could tell, by the colour: very pale.

Unfortunately you have purchased a very poor quality circuit breaker. Not sure what you except for a cheap China knockoff. Plus how can you expect 200 amps to travel past a ? 1/4 stud? Way over rated for 200amps, need to research what the original company made. Then China has copied this and just slapped 200 amps on a 60:amp breaker

Just curious, the breaker should connect to positive or negative battery?

Great video analysis. China's finest - you must just have got a bad one because they are all tested and CE approved 🤣

Replace the brass washer with a copper one.

In every single video on YT people use noname chinese circuit breakers and than complain about them. What do you expect? I am sure it would not be the same if you use some proper ones like thise from Bluesea. It is very irresponsible to save money on high current stuff going cheap.

Are you from Boston?

Had the same problems with my 400 amp circuit breakers they opened up at at least half their rated power , switched to fuses and no false trips , I really wanted circuit breakers cause of their disconnect ability so much easier than un bolting a fuse any know a reliable good 12 v circuit breaker brand?

What’s the brand?

Why didn't u change the ground bigger as well?

I've had several of those breakers. Typically they have the same housing with the current rating as in the video. Those are defective. I have ordered several that say waterproof and ignition protected on the front and those work just fine. Those breakers are physically a different size slightly.

@3.01 Bad Design, Well yes but it wasn't designed to be Good. It was designed to Resemble the Buss brand of quality breakers.
If people buy the cheapest Chinese knock-off, what are they really expecting? I guess this video is targeting the 'Not very Brilliant' DC project builder!
Also, if anyone is playing with voltage higher than 12 volts, like 24, 36 or 48 you need to be very careful about your fuse selection, if you go that route. A lot of fuses are too short for higher DC voltage. They can 'blow' and allow current to flow because an arc is jumping the gap created in the blown fuse!
I would just like to say,. If you don't want a fire or worse. DON'T USE CHEAP CHINESE JUNK! There's a lot of things that you can cut corners on but your wiring isn't it...
Nice Video!
Ya'll Take Care and be safe, John

It should be in the title of the video or at the top of the description otherwise it’s clickbait I don’t care how scientific the video is.. why is brand of the cheap breaker not stated?

What is the brand of the breaker????

What's the voltage you're using? What's the rated voltage of the cheap breaker?

Really good video.

very well done video.

Holy shit no, no, no. Stop giving advice that people might listen to dude. Should you not use one of those as a primary breaker? Yeah, but not for the reasons you give. A lifepo4 battery that shorts, can push a current far far far in excess of that tiny 200A breaker. When that goes down, things get nasty fast and you can get fun things like arcs. Do you know what an arc is? Do you know what interrupt breaking is? No, no you obviously do not. If you did you wouldn't have a device that if that battery shorts could catch on fire....a fire that is attached to the battery.... Congrats on your potential bomb. Disconnects absolutely have their place....which is after a real fast blow fuse that can handle what the battery can dish out under worse case scenarios. Also, if you want a circuit breaker that can handle the load it claims to be rated for, pony up the extra $20 for something that has a UL. Probably don't know what that means either.

The only use I could see for them is maybe on a positive main feed wire to some small 12volt circuits like LED lighting, it could protect the main cable and act as a isolator. Their use is very limited, nice idea, but the thermal trip idea must cause voltage drop, which defeats the object of good cable sizing.

They are small and neat and double up as a switch, but after mine came yesterday the terminal sizes freaked me out, mine is 300Amp rating and I am running 70mm2 crossectional area wiring, those terminals are what I would use for 50amps max not 300. I tested mine brutally by attaching some leads and shorting it across a battery. It seemed to trip about right. However another concern is voltage drop, you are putting a resistor in your positive line, not good, they need to be magnetically operated.

I had the exact same experience with those pieces of junk!

Im so glad you posted this video. I have been using the same 300 amp circuit breaker in my RV and its been popping off prematurely. Thanks for the in sight.

Why are you using AWG4 expecting anything above 65 amps? You can see on your flir shots that the cable can't handle the amps. I proper spec'ed cable would not have heated the terminals on the breaker. While I doubt these breakers are any good, I also doubt the science involved with determining that they are crap as presented in this video. The fuse triggers because the resistance in your wiring is to high, and so actually it provides added safety in this case by triggering. You should not be running more than 65 amps through #4 wire.

problem... thats what happens when you buy a cheap China made Ebay knockoff breaker.

I use to use breakers .high power they get hot as hell. No more breakers for my inverter . BTW thanks for your video and the tear down .

Great, thanks for your solid information sir

Those breakers are useless for just about anything. They are cheaply made and not properly sealed. The internal components start to rust quickly. We made the mistake of using them but never again.

Looks like a lower rated breaker with a different panel on it. Those weedy studs give it away! If you've managed to shove 200A through it you've probably ruined the internals as well. My ones are 50A and it looks identical.

good enough for me for small apliances as long as it triggers lower than what its rated for

13;25, The pressure on the contact may be substandard. As the concave plate started to heat up at 150a the pressure on the contact weakens even more, in-turn, increasing resistance / heat production, popping the device prematurely. As pointed out, poor quality device in several areas.

Underrated video for sure

I would love to see your recommendation on an actually good breaker to use

Thanks... Do you know of a good make at a reasonable price? As im doing my own diy solar setup and need a 200amp dc breaker! Was looking at these, but not now 😱. 👍

Good job mate, nice tear down and made a lot of good points here. The average Joe DIYer is easily tempted (self included) into this “Cheap Chinese Crap” (is this a Triple C rating?). Thanks & Cheers

Thanks for this highly informative and beautifully concise video, definitely subbing to you sir!

those damn things have been used in car audio for yrs, complete utter garbage. just bumping the car wrong would trip those.

we make fuse and fuseholder for car

Well, they need to use really light materials ,because they are assembled by 7 year olds. We need to protect the children at all cost.


Just kidding.

I have an anl, 100 amp fuse holder, and over a short amount of time, a couple months, it provides power, for a 1000, watt, inverter, and the fuse holder melts, o already replaced it a couple months ago, and its doing the same thing again, not sure why, and I use it to power a coffee pot, 5 cup, and to power a battery charger, to charge a marine, deep cycle agm battery, I'm assuming, I'm going to have to increase, the wire size, from 4awg, to 0 awg?

All kinds of great info except the brand name of the breaker not to buy.