Комментарии:
I've just come across this video and all I can say is. "Have you been living under a rock (pun intended)?? I'm into model railways and we've been using this method and others similar for decades. !
ОтветитьI came here to check out how to create rocks in a 3D software, this was great too though ^-^
Ответитьsorry for being a super noob. what kind of foam are you using?
ОтветитьExcuse me, im sorry i wanna ask something the white powder you use that you mixed with water. What is it ?
ОтветитьAwesome idea and effect. Thank you
ОтветитьWell this was so usefull so I have to follow 😮.
Great work 😊
Some people call me Geordie, too
<-------------------------my baby picture. Been called LeVar Burton for the last 46 years
Sheet foam insulation like Kingspan is all you need and a fraction of the time and mess.
ОтветитьWhen you want an unendless variety of rockmolds use aluminium foil used for grilling. It's much thicker than normal kitchen foil and wider. You can get it in width up to 60 cm.
To test it just take a piece of let's say 30x30 cm and scram it together. Not to tight, you should be able to pull it apart again. From this scrambled piece make a form so you can pour plaster in it, just like you would do with a rockmold.
With this method I have made rock-faces up to 50x40 cms.
💖From the Čech Republic🇨🇿
Amazing build! Soundtrack being straight out of Brotato was a surprise winner!
ОтветитьHey, we have the same name.
ОтветитьCoffee grounds. What an absolutely brilliant idea for colouring the basic groundwork.
ОтветитьGosh
Ответитьis the grass glued on im confused.
ОтветитьI've seen realistic rocks made from tree bark such as pine or oak.
ОтветитьWhy do we have to use the background supports? I want something that has a 360 degree view, not just 180 or 270, having it flat on two sides doesn't work for a train set, can we just build up using newspaper and plaster strips? If so what can I use on my base that will be flatter to the train board?
ОтветитьLove it
ОтветитьI love this. Please tell me you are still making content....
ОтветитьLooks like a great product. I would a least have to try it. Great tutorial! It jogged my memory of things learned years ago
ОтветитьJust an old tip I've used for years. Instead of using real small rocks, use cat litter. Its light weight and cheap.
Ответитьalways add plaster to water!
Ответитьyour secret weapon remains a secret
Ответитьwhat is THE COMPOUND
ОтветитьExcellent!
ОтветитьI’m just getting into miniature modelling and your videos have been the best thing ever. Thank you for your time making these!
ОтветитьVery nice tutorials and great results, but you speak much too fast for a French speaker....
ОтветитьAs a scale model builder of Armor, I use a ton of different techniques to make my Dioramas. I’ve used a similar technique in several projects, and I’ve found that if I use acrylic paint in the plaster of rocks and other objects it serves a few purposes. First it makes painting and dry brushing easier, and second if someone accidentally touches and breaks a plaster piece it’s not plaster white and easier to repair. Good tips in your video though 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
ОтветитьThanks for the idea of plastacine (sp) I could see some opportunities for me to try and use that. Currently I use liquid latex from Woodland scenics. I spread several layers of that want to real rocks let it dry add peel it off. From there i have a mold i can use forever. I make mine out of hydrocal.
Just another option. Ty.
hello geordie it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks geordie friends randy
ОтветитьI was really struggling with my diorama and this video got me back on track. Thank you so much <3
Ответитьwhat type of foam is that purple foam?
ОтветитьOne thing you missed.
Watered down silver, washed over the rocks, dab gently with some kitchen roll to remove the wetness... instant mineral sheen.
When making rock molds consider using tree bark chips. You can get a very large bag at a "big box" store for about $5.If you look at the chips you can find a lot of them that will look just like rock. You can put several together and make a mold or just use them on as rocks. They work either way.
ОтветитьNice! I didn't know about plasticine!
Ответитьالسلام عليكم.. ممكن اعرف اسم القالب الذي تم العمل به ..وشكرا
ОтветитьOne the most simplest and of course, realistic I’ve seen so far. I’m thinking of building a rock mini crawler course for indoors. Seen some examples they’re using but I want to use foam as a base. To keep it light as possible and adding/remove terrain as I’m testing the course.
I like the mix medium element in this diorama.
But this is the first time I’ve seen someone use grout and a brush!! 👏👏👏 awesome.
oh and plasticine
🙂👍
ОтветитьWhy use other colors, of you're just covering it with black?
ОтветитьNice tattoo also ⚡
ОтветитьMind pleasing.
Ответитьwhere to get grout pls i didnt find
ОтветитьYou can use tinfoil as a mold for rocks too I think, I’ve seen come people use it but I don’t know it’s drawbacks
Ответитьgreat solution! very creative
ОтветитьSorry about a few typos that managed to slip through unnoticed till after I posted but you dear intelligent people should be able to get what I meant to convey.
ОтветитьFor my sculptor mould, I shred several sheets of soft toilet paper in a nutri bullet and I get nice fluffy paper. Wear breathing protection so you don't inhale the dust when you open the bullet. Add about an inch or so of plaster to a jar and fill loosely with the paper fluff. Shake vigorously to coat the fluff with the plaster. Take out what you want and mix with water to the desired consistency and wella! You have a very inexpensive alternative to Sculpted mould. Can be shaped, carved and painted in the same way and is fast drying so don't wait too long after drying begins. Moulds for my rocks were made by painting silicon rubber onto carefully chosen real rock surfaces. Apply about 4 coats and reinforce the final layer with gauze bandage. These moulds are very flexible and able to be used in various locations to suit requirements. I lay the mould flat and pour a fairly soupy plaster mix onto it ensuring that all depressions are filled. I wait until a semi gloss sheen appears on the surface and mild heat can be felt when touching the setting plaster. The mould is then able to be carefully lifted and slapped onto the surface where you want it. You are able to poke and prod it as you want to whatever shape you require. When toe outside of the mould is quite warm to the touch, the curing is sufficiently advanced to allow you to peel the mould away. The plaster is still soft enough to allow any removal of unwanted flash repair of any minor imperfections that may have occurred such as a small blowhole. Spray the surface the mould is to be applied to with water to ensure god adhesion. These silicone rubber moulds last for decades if washed off immediately after removal and when finished, an application of talc helps to increase their life. I also wet the mould before pouring as this to eliminate air bubbles forming as the plaster spreads across the mould surface. The plaster casting is best kept reasonably thin for economy and ease of handling and flexibility.
Ответитьwhat about using C4? JK-love this video!
ОтветитьTop work, given me some ideas for my model railway.
ОтветитьOne point you may want to try....when first cutting cliff faces try scrapping a drywall saw @ 90° to the surface since the teeth are at different sizes it will make more non uniform ( realistic) tears
ОтветитьAmazing. Thanks for share 👍
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