Installing the Redi Flash system in a Tile Redi base

Yes whenever your redi to tile the redi I'll be redi lol thanks again

When do you think you will be doing the video of the redi poxy? Im so glad you have made these videos because I just ordered a tile redi system and like you said, I have not been very impressed with the tutorial videos by them or anyone else really so your videos have been very helpful. I’m waiting until your redi poxy video to do mine!

Did you just say, "the bomb-diggity" !!! :-)))

You are such a common-sense guy! I've been watching tons of vid's as I get ready to do my first Tile Redi.... so many knuckleheads out there! YOU make it seem like, It's gonna be ok.

Question: As I wait for my Tile Redi shower base to arrive, I need to build the two walls that will create the shower surround. (I'm bumping out the exising bathroom wall into a huge entry room.) Should I build my walls to fit the Tile Redi 34"x60" EXACTLY 34x60? or should I leave a 1/4" play, or??

Our contractor installed a tile ready pan a few weeks ago. He has not tiled it yet, but there is moderate creaking. Any advice for what to do if pan is creaking after install?

Great video. I'm interested in using a Tile Redi shower base as well, and there aren't many vids to choose from on the internet. My question, can you use any substrate, such as Wedi, for your walls with the Tile Redi pan?

When you installed the backer board, did you leave a gap up from the bottom of the flashing? I've seen videos saying that is necessary to avoid water wicking up the board. Thank you.

Brother, come do my master bathroom In Winchester!!! Great video

@Today I work on Hello. I need to get in touch with you. I have a question about a redi flashing that I accidentally installed backwards and is sitting too proud of the shower pan walls not allowing me to install first course. How can I get in touch with you

OVER KILL, IF THIS IS SO WATER PROOF, WHY THEN BOTHER WITH THE REDI GAURD?

The flashing is causing lippage inside the pan, how did you correct this? I'm assuming I need to use Thin Set with Tape or Kerdi Band or something but how did you correct this?

How about the side with drain hole and side opposite to drain hole. They don't need flashing ?

How do you cut The flashing to fit into the corners properly?

Thanks for the videos on Tile Redi products, they've been extremely helpful for my DIY install. Question about the Redi flash: Do you have any issues with the metal not laying flush against the inside wall of the pan once you install your cement board? Mine is kind of flaring out in spots and I'm concerned about my bottom row of wall tile not being able to adhere properly. My studs are against the pan and plum so I'm not sure why it's happening.

Do you think modified thin set like Schluter or a cbp prolite white would work for tile redi base. Just don’t know where to find epoxy thinset for the base

Save money and use 1/2 galvanized flashing for siding

Hi. Great video on the tile redi pan... it would be helpful if you mentioned where the flashing came from,? I didn't see any flashing with the provider that I bought my shower pan... any rood flash metal could help?

Thanks for the tips. Do you put a strip of mesh tape and thin set between the redi flash system and backerboard? or just leave that with caulk and tile over that? Currently unsure if I should add a thin set strip before waterproofing.

Do you have to put membrane over flashing that’s sticking out? And what adhesive do you recommend to use. That will stick to aluminum, backing boards and tile redi pan. Thank you!

Do you secure the flashing to the studs with screws like they show in their video? Seems like a screw would make the backer board get oushed out a bit

So a modified thinset like Mapei Porcelain can be applied to the exposed flashing that's on the inside of the pan wall to hold the bottom row of tile and it holds? I thought the thinset curing requires the thinset to penetrate into the tile backer surface (in this case, the metal face of the flashing) and tile surface to properly bond the the tile into its backer material? a metal drip edge surface would seem to to not be able to allow the thinset to "grab" into its surface during curing....

what do you think of go -board? in this type of project?

Do you have a video putting on the flashing along with the walls?

I set my pan....worked out great! Thanks. I have the flashing and I'm planning to use goboard. The corners have me worried though. The flashing comes together there and theres a crack. What do you think of the goboard sealant?

This is unrelated but do you have any experience installing a glass panel with a TileRedi base? I talked to the TileRedi support and they said, the glass would need to be anchored to the wall ONLY and if I tried to anchor to the threshold as well, it would crack. However, the glass panels and anchors I have provide instructions that the anchors need to be on the threshold and the wall.

Would love your input!

Wondering if there is a special cut or bend for the corners.. the redi flash video from the company doesn't go over the corner installation. I guess just tons of caulking? Or waterproof membrane? Thank you.

I was at the local Flea Mkt and an old guy like myself had a few pieces of Redi Flashing someone had left over from an install. He didn't know what they were and only wanted $1 so I got them. A 30" and 2/12". If you haven't seen this flashing it is really thin Alum about 5X thicken than Alum Foil. Not impressive but will do the job. Every kit I see online goes for $65.

To be honest . . . $1,000 Redi Pans concern me . . . I haven't seen them up close but people say they are foam or cheap plastic. AND Redi clearly indicates their pans need all of the reinforcement you can muster. This makes me wonder how well they will hold up over time . . . I believe their warranty is only 2 years.

A question down below about Redi curbing caught my eye . . . You CANNOT put any holes in this pan Whatsoever . . .
NONE / NoWhere / No How.

When you install a frameless glass kit on top of these curbs with heavy stone slabs . . . silicone (butter) the slabs in place, weight them down, let them fully cure, then cut your bottom glass Bracket "Screws" that hold the glass so that they Do Not Penetrate That Curb ( only the stone covering the curb).
Have a talk with little Johnny when he comes to install the glass and hope he listens.

The only remaining problem I have is that those curbs are hollow underneath ( even after using mortar ) and those curbs are expected to hold at least some of the weight of that heavy glass and all of weight of the slab stone covering.

For $1,000 . . . IMO . . . We deserve more . . . The underside of those pans should be filled with something light weight but Strong at the Factory that will give those pans lasting rigidity. Some people claim around the center drain is a weak spot of flexibility . . . which should not be. That pan needs to be stiff to within 1/32" over all parts of it . . . or else.

I think the redi flash is only available for 36 depth or less. So if you have a larger pan or elect not to use the redi flash would you use a band of some type at the seam where concrete board mate up with redi pan?

The Redi sealant used with Redi flash…can I use this sealant for screw holes? Or is it better to use thinset?

Regarding the Redi sealant used for the Redi flashing…Can I use this Redi sealant on the heads of cement backer board screws??? Or should I just cover them with thinset?