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I and about 200 other people surged there with Tom one day in the 1982 El Niño super Swell. The faces were about 10-12 ‘ and the wave didn’t break like it does in this video. Back then it was a giant challenging wall out in front of the rocks and to make the wave you had to withstand a 6 foot backwash coming straight at you.
I specifically remember watching 2 out of the 201 people taking their picks of set waves and getting insanely barreled over the next 2-3 days. Then I would see Tommy at school the next day as if it never happened ! We used to call it the “SandBar”.
Joe you are rad
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